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Bun Cha:河内烤肉米粉的午餐传统 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hanoi

Bun Cha:河内烤肉米粉的午餐传统

炭火烤制的猪肉饼与猪五花,浸入鱼露汤底,配上冷米粉与新鲜香草。这就是Hanoi世代传承、炉火纯青的午餐。

By the Wayfarer teamMar 30, 20265 min read
Bun cha
↑ Bun chaImage via Wikipedia (Bun cha, CC BY-SA)
Tags
#bun cha#hanoi#street food#grilled pork#vermicelli#old quarter#lunch
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    Bun Cha 是 Hanoi 人默认的午餐选择。每天上午11点到下午1点,走进老城区的任何一条小巷,你都会遭遇炭火的烟气、猪油滴落炭上的焦香,以及坐在塑料凳上快速进食的上班族和摩托车司机。

    这道菜的结构从不改变:冷米粉、一碗盛有鱼露汤底和烤猪肉的温热汤碗、一盘新鲜香草,外加腌青木瓜。你把米粉和香草蘸入汤中,夹出猪肉,如此循环往复。整个过程像流水线作业,但只要猪肉烤得焦香适度、汤底咸甜平衡,一切便浑然天成。

    2016年,奥巴马与安东尼·波登在"Ngo" Thi Nham街的Huong Lien店共进Bun Cha,从此这家店成了游客必打卡的网红地标。但Huong Lien在奥巴马来之前本就口碑不错,Hanoi 遍布各处的其他店同样出色——有时甚至更胜一筹。

    Bun Cha 的组成

    Cha(猪肉): 两种部位。"Cha vien"是用猪肩肉手工捏制的肉饼——肥瘦比例恰当,在炭火上烤制时才能保持鲜嫩多汁。"Cha mieng"是去皮猪五花切成的薄片,烤至边缘微微焦糖化。有些店会在烤制前用香蕉叶包裹肉饼,防止水分流失。两种可以分开点,也可以一起要。

    腌制方法简单:鱼露(蛋白质含量35%以上)、糖、黑胡椒、蒜蓉、以及少量猪油或植物油。猪肉上炭火烤制——不用煤气,不用烤箱。炭火是必不可少的。烤好后趁热直接放入蘸汤中。

    "Nuoc cham"(汤底): 以稀释鱼露为基底,加入糖、青柠汁、米醋、蒜末、辣椒末,有时还会滴入一两滴"tinh dau ca cuong"(一种巨型水虫提取的精华,现已禁止捕捞,但偶尔还会出现)。汤底应保持温热,而非沸烫。酸甜咸的平衡是关键所在。太咸会让你不停喝水;太甜则像在吃甜点。

    Bun(米粉): 冷米粉,单独盛放于竹篮中。传统做法用"bun con"——小团紧实的米粉,一口一个。如今大多数店改用"bun roi",即散装米粉,自行取用。

    "Rau song"(香草): 生菜、紫苏、薄荷、香菜、ngo(水芹草)、"kinh gioi"(越南香薷)。香草盘应该比米粉篮更大。用生菜叶做包裹,塞入米粉和猪肉,蘸汤食用。

    "Dua gop"(腌菜): 青木瓜切丝,以糖醋卤汁腌制。也可用胡萝卜或苤蓝代替。酸味能解猪肉的油腻。

    桌上常备:蒜片、辣椒、米醋、黑胡椒、金桔。可自行调整汤底口味。

    吃法

    不要把汤底浇到米粉上。米粉要保持冷的状态。吃法是蘸。

    1. 用筷子夹起一小把米粉。
    2. 浸入汤底,轻轻搅动,捞起。
    3. 加上香草、腌菜和一块猪肉。
    4. 一两口吃完。
    5. 重复。

    有人喜欢用生菜叶把所有食材包起来。有人把金桔汁挤入汤底。有人放大量辣椒直到汤底变红。没有什么吃法是错的,但如果把汤底浇到米粉上当汤面吃,会被看出是第一次来。

    Hanoi Montage

    图片来源:Cheong。 原上传者为 Cheong Kok Chun,来自英文维基百科,经 Wikimedia Commons 授权(CC BY-SA)

    在 Hanoi 哪里吃 Bun Cha

    每个街区都有Bun Cha店。几家知名的:

    • Bun Cha Dac Kim(老城区 Hang Manh 街)——自1960年代开业至今,上午10:30开门,卖完即止(通常到下午1点)。
    • Bun Cha Huong Lien(Hai Ba Trung 区 Ngo Thi Nham 街)——就是奥巴马那家。套餐40,000 VND。游客众多,都在20号桌拍照留念,但食物依然保持水准。
    • Bun Cha Sinh Tu(多个分店)——品质稳定的连锁店,有空调,适合不耐热的食客。
    • Bun Cha Binh Chung(Bach Mai 街)——本地人的选择,没有英文菜单,没有游客,只有猪肉和米粉。
    • Bun Cha Ngoc Xuan(Tay Ho 区 Thuy Khue 街)——靠近西湖,适合散步后用餐。

    价格区间:每份30,000–50,000 VND。加点"nem cua be"(炸蟹春卷)需另付10,000 VND,这是标配的搭配小吃。

    大多数店上午10点开门,下午2点左右打烊。Bun Cha 是午餐食物。晚上7点来吃也行,但总觉得哪里不对劲。

    Hanoi Vietnam The-omnipresent-plastic-chairs-01

    图片来源:CEphoto,Uwe Aranas,经 Wikimedia Commons 授权(CC BY-SA)

    变体

    有些店会尝试新做法:

    • Bun cha cuon la chuoi ——烤前用香蕉叶包裹猪肉。
    • Bun cha cuon mo chai ——用网油包裹猪肉,口感更为醇厚。
    • Bun cha nuong que tre ——猪肉串在竹签上炭烤。
    • Bun cha nuoc leo ——以猪骨汤代替鱼露蘸汁。名字相同,实为另一道菜。

    这些变体并不比原版更好,只是不同而已。

    Bun Cha 在越南文学中的记载

    越南作家 Thach Lam 在《Hanoi Bam Sau Pho Phuong》(1943年)中,写到一位乡下学者来到 Hanoi,闻到炭火烟香后,竟情不自禁地吟诗:

    升龙故土千年珍。
    此物莫非 Bun Cha 乎?

    Thach Lam 随后写道:"傍晚时分,坐在微风中,腹中饥饿,忽闻烤肉的焦香飘来,人便容易成了诗人。那青烟袅袅如山间薄雾,猪油滴落红炭时发出的滋滋声,恰似一声轻叹。"

    Vu Ngoc Phan 在《Nhung Nam Thang Ay》中描述了战前 Hanoi 街头的 Bun Cha 小贩:"三五个铜板可买一小份。小贩在铁皮箱上的红炭旁扇动猪肉,肉声滋滋,烟气四散。三五个铜板,便能享用美味的 Bun Cha;若在家自己做,反而更贵、更麻烦。"

    Bun Cha 变化不大。还是那些猪肉,那些米粉,那炉炭火。只是价格涨了。