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炭火烤肉配上酸甜汤底和凉米粉——河内的午餐灵魂Bun Cha其实点餐并不复杂。这份指南将告诉你具体该怎么做。
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Hanoi街头的午后总是弥漫着炭火和油脂的香气。"Bun cha"是这座城市的午餐首选。如果你从未尝试过坐在矮小的塑料凳上，面对摆满桌子的碗碟却不知从何下手，那么这份指南就是为你准备的。
一份标准的bun cha点餐通常包含三个部分。第一：一碗温热的“nuoc cham”汤底——带有淡淡甜味、醋味和鱼露底蕴，里面浸泡着烤五花肉片和扁平的肉饼。第二：一盘凉的“bun”（细米粉，已分成小团）。第三：一盘新鲜香草和蔬菜——紫苏、生菜，如果你点了的话，可能还有切片的青木瓜或"cha gio"（炸春卷）。
千万不要把汤底倒在米粉上。这是最常见的错误。正确的吃法是：用筷子夹起一团bun，浸入汤碗中，夹上一块肉，如果喜欢的话可以用生菜叶包起来，一口或两口吃掉。汤碗是共享的，整顿饭都在这个碗里进行。
你可能已经听说过这个名字。2016年，Barack Obama和Anthony Bourdain曾在Bun Cha Huong Lien（24 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung）的楼上吃过一份大约85,000 VND的套餐。餐厅墙上现在挂着那次访问的照片，玻璃柜里还保留着他们当时坐过的餐桌。这不仅是美食旅游史的一部分，而且他们的bun cha味道确实扎实——虽谈不上惊艳，但制作非常地道。
午餐高峰期（上午11:30至下午1点）请做好排队的准备。一份包含cha gio的套餐价格约为80,000–100,000 VND。去体验一次是值得的，尤其是如果你想感受那种氛围的话。只是不要把它当作唯一标准。
Bun Cha Dac Kim（1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem）自20世纪60年代起就开始在老城区为食客提供服务。店面狭窄，上菜速度极快，汤底的味道明显更复杂——醋味稍浓，肉饼的炭烤火候也更好。一份完整的套餐价格在60,000–70,000 VND左右。营业时间大约是上午8点到晚上8点，不过炭火最旺的时候是在上午11点到下午2点之间。
如果你愿意离开游客区，Bun Cha Sinh Tu（34 Sinh Tu, Dong Da）主要吸引的是附近的上班族和当地居民。这里的五花肉切得更厚，“mam”（蘸汤）的味道比游客区的版本更深沉，甜味较少。每碗大约50,000 VND。他们卖完即止——通常在下午1:30之前就关门了——所以请在中午之前到达。
图片来源：Quang Nguyen Vinh，来自Pexels
图片来源：Pew Nguyen，来自Pexels
Bun cha是午餐食物。 大多数店铺在早上7–8点开门，下午2–3点就关门了。不要等到晚上6点才去寻找，然后纳闷为什么店都关了。
炭火烟雾是体验的一部分。 街边店会在人行道上烤肉——朝着烟雾飘来的方向走，而不是避开它。
Cha gio不是必须的，但强烈推荐。 将炸春卷浸入汤碗中，外皮会变软，还能化解油腻。至少点一次试试。
河内的vietnamese coffee文化与bun cha街区是绝配——午餐后，在任何街边摊点一杯ca phe sua da（炼乳咖啡）吧。
每人预算50,000–100,000 VND，具体取决于店铺以及是否加点cha gio。大多数地方只收现金。午餐时间（上午11点至下午1点）人潮拥挤——在11点前或1点半后去会更容易找到座位。上述三家店都在距离Hoan Kiem Lake 3公里范围内。