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  3. Phu Quoc 的 Bun Quay:值得专程寻觅的“自拌面”
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · phu-quoc

Phu Quoc 的 Bun Quay:值得专程寻觅的“自拌面”

Bun quay 是 Phu Quoc 岛独有的面食,你需要亲自在碗里调配汤底和辣椒酱。以下是当地人真正会去吃的几家店。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20263 分钟阅读
A woman with long hair is seen from behind praying inside a Vietnamese temple, surrounded by incense.
↑ A woman with long hair is seen from behind praying inside a Vietnamese temple, surrounded by incense.Photo by Loifotos on Pexels
Tags
#bun quay#phu quoc#guide#food#street food#noodles#seafood#duong dong
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Phu Quoc 有一种名气并不怎么“外传”的特色美食——“bun quay”(意为“搅拌面”)。它极具地方特色,吃法讲究,几乎从不出现在游客菜单上。你会得到一碗粗圆的米粉,配上一碟鲜虾、鱼饼和鱿鱼,再加一勺浓缩虾汤,以及一小碟辣椒发酵虾酱。接下来就是你大显身手的时候了:倒入汤汁,搅拌均匀,直到每一根面条都裹满汤汁。这过程虽然看起来有些凌乱,但吃起来却格外满足。

    这道菜的诞生源于岛上的捕虾传统——正是支撑起 Phu Quoc 鱼露产业的海洋经济,造就了这碗面的灵魂。你不会在 Long Beach 附近的度假区找到它,它藏在 Duong Dong 市场后的巷子里,或是居民区的街道旁,那里只有手写的招牌和面朝墙壁的塑料小凳。

    以下是几家值得专程前往的店。

    Quan Bun Quay 30 Tran Hung Dao

    这是岛上最接近“正统”地址的一家店。店面很窄,只有两张桌子的宽度,位于 Tran Hung Dao 大街上,在 Duong Dong 环岛往南几家店的位置。营业时间从早上 6:30 左右开始,通常到 10 点就卖光了。根据配料不同,每碗价格在 35,000–45,000 VND 之间。

    这里的汤底比大多数店颜色更深、熬煮得更浓缩,这意味着你不需要加太多就能获得浓郁的味道。这里的虾总是非常新鲜——这是每日现采现用的操作,绝非冷冻存货。如果你想吃得更辣,可以要求加点“them tom”(额外虾酱);岛上默认的辣度通常比较温和。

    Bach Dang 巷内——无招牌,看排队

    在 Duong Dong 市场以西约 200 米处,Bach Dang 街有一条不起眼的小巷,尽头是一家由私人住宅改建的家庭小店。没有招牌。你只要看到折叠桌上堆叠的塑料碗,并在早上 7 点左右闻到虾汤的鲜香,就找对地方了。

    这家店只收现金,通常上午 9:30 就关门了,价格统一为 30,000 VND——不分大小,统一价。这里的鱿鱼比虾更好吃:鱿鱼圈切得较厚,且划了花刀,更容易吸附汤汁。店里自制的辣椒酱比一些大店使用的商业酱料明显更辛辣。记得自带纸巾——这里不提供餐巾纸。

    越南 Bình Dương 的热闹市场场景,展示了节日期间的传统美食和装饰

    图片来源:Vyvan BÙI VY VÂN on Pexels

    Quan Co Bay, Nguyen Trung Truc 街

    这家店营业时间较晚——上午 10 点到下午 2 点——如果你错过了早高峰,这里是个不错的选择。据常把摩托车停在店外的老顾客说,Co Bay(“Bay 阿姨”)经营这家店已经超过十年了。它位于 Nguyen Trung Truc 街,这是一条从 Duong Dong 主干道向内陆延伸的侧街。

    价格在 40,000–55,000 VND 之间。这里的一碗面会配上一小碟生豆芽和新鲜香草,这是大多数 bun quay 店所省略的。吃到一半时拌入豆芽,口感会变得很棒——在柔软的面条中增加了爽脆感。鱼饼是手工制作的,紧实而不发硬。

    令人垂涎的海鲜拉面,配有鲜虾、猪肉和浓汤中的面条。

    图片来源:FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels

    如何正确享用

    首先,不要一次性把汤全倒进去。先加一半,搅拌 30 秒,尝尝味道。面条吸汤很快。汤汁要分次添加——成品应该是挂满酱汁的,而不是像汤面那样。辣椒虾酱最后放,用小勺拌匀在面条里,而不是堆在上面。如果酱料没拌开,你可能会吃到一口极辣,然后就没味了。

    坐下之前,先从附近的小摊买一杯越南冰咖啡——“ca phe sua da”。大多数 bun quay 店不提供饮料。

    实用贴士

    这三家店都位于 Duong Dong 镇内或附近,彼此相距约 1.5 公里——骑租来的摩托车非常方便。其中两家店必须在早上前往。请准备好小额现金(10,000–50,000 VND);这些店基本不支持刷卡或扫码支付。如果你住在岛南端的 An Thoi 附近,往北骑行约 20 公里,但为了这一顿地道的早餐,绝对值得。