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忘掉汤底吧。Pho cuon是河内对其最著名面食的冷食卷法——而真正吃到正宗口味的唯一去处，是西湖边的一条狭长半岛。
Last updated · May 19, 2026 · independently researched, never sponsored.
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忘掉汤底吧。"Pho cuon"——卷粉——是一道冷食手卷街头小吃，与汤粉版本的共同点几乎只剩名字和那片扁平的米粉皮。它诞生于伸入西湖的小半岛Ngu Xa，而最好吃的几家店至今仍未搬离原址。
一张新鲜宽薄的banh pho粉皮——柔软、滑嫩、略带透明感——平铺开来，铺上一小堆炒牛肉和新鲜香草，再卷成紧实的圆筒，大小与春卷相仿。没有汤，没有高汤，也不需要开水。蘸料是一款偏甜带蒜香的nuoc cham风味酱汁，上面漂着几片薄切辣椒。
牛肉很关键。好的pho cuon用的是大火快炒、加入蒜末、少许鱼露和洋葱丝的牛肉。粉皮必须当天制作——最好是当天早晨——否则口感会变硬变韧。这正是Ngu Xa至今仍一枝独秀的原因：这条街上的粉皮作坊从这道菜诞生起就一直在供应新鲜粉皮，短距离的供应链在成品上体现得淋漓尽致。这道菜大约创制于20世纪80年代。
从口感上说，它更接近越南鲜春卷"goi cuon"，与pho系列几乎没有关联。说它与pho相近，真正的依据只是那张粉皮和牛肉的搭配。来这里可别指望会端上来一碗汤。
Ngu Xa半岛夹在西湖与竹白湖之间，从Nguyen Khac Hieu街或Pho Vong街可以进入。这条狭长的居民区历史上以青铜铸造闻名——半岛上有一家已运营数百年的铜器作坊。食物的故事则相对晚近。据当地说法，半岛上几户人家在革新开放后期的某个午后，开始把剩余的banh pho粉皮裹上牛肉当作下午点心。这种吃法逐渐流传开来，摊位越来越多，到2000年代，Ngu Xa已成为公认的专程寻味之地。
这条街现在有五到十家专门的pho cuon店，数量随季节有所变化。大多是低矮、摆着塑料桌椅、门面朝湖敞开的小店。天气好的时候坐在外面吃——隔着竹白湖望向Hanoi天际线的景色相当不错。
Pho Cuon Hung Ben，地址Ngu Xa 25号，是被引用最多的地址，也是各类本地美食榜单上频繁出现的一家。卷得紧实，牛肉煎得到位，粉皮新鲜。十条卷粉约60,000–70,000 VND。
Pho Cuon Co Lan，往下走几步门牌31号，规模稍小、价格稍低，下午时分本地食客更多。值得在同一次拜访中两家都试试，因为差异是真实存在的——Co Lan的酱汁酸味更突出一些。
Pho Cuon 31（同在Ngu Xa，有时与Co Lan分开列出）同时供应卷粉和炸粉两种版本，是最方便做直接比较的地方。
这几家店大致从09:00营业至21:00。午餐时段和下午（16:00–18:00左右）是最热闹的时间段。
摄影：Thuan Pham，来自Pexels
"Pho chien phong"——膨化炸粉——是必点的搭档。同一张banh pho粉皮下油锅炸至鼓胀酥脆，再盖上炒牛肉和蔬菜。咬下去外皮酥碎，内里仍带些微嚼劲。口感比卷粉更浓郁厚实，两者同桌对比正是这道菜的精髓所在。
Ngu Xa的一份pho chien phong通常为70,000–90,000 VND。大多数店两种都有。两个人点一份卷粉加一份炸粉，便是一顿完整的正餐。
饮料方面，摊位本身通常只备有瓶装水和罐装饮料。如果想来一杯Hanoi经典搭配——冰镇"ca phe sua da"——往湖边方向步行两分钟内就有几家咖啡店。
两人份的pho cuon加pho chien phong，总费用约150,000–180,000 VND，是西湖区（Tay Ho）性价比最高的堂食餐食之一。Ngu Xa距还剑湖（Hoan Kiem Lake）约3公里——乘xe om或Grab约15分钟，如果已在巴亭（Ba Dinh）或西湖区，骑车约10分钟。
老城区或还剑湖周边没有哪家能与Ngu Xa的水准相提并论。Pho cuon在Hanoi其他地方的菜单上也有，但粉皮一旦经过运输和存放，品质便会明显下滑。这道菜在Ngu Xa之所以出色，正是因为粉皮从作坊到桌上，全程在同一个早晨完成。
摄影：Quang Nguyen Vinh，来自Pexels
Hanoi的饮食文化对那些讲究时令或只属于某条街道的菜肴有着特殊的偏爱——有些东西，就是要去特定的地方才能吃到正宗的味道。Pho cuon完全符合这种逻辑。它轻盈得足以当作午后点心而非正餐，价格也合适，湖边的用餐环境让这顿饭多了一份随性的仪式感。在Hanoi十一月或十二月凉爽的傍晚，坐在Ngu Xa的户外桌旁，面前摆着一盘卷粉和一盘炸粉，实在难以拒绝。
在16:00至18:30之间前往Ngu Xa，可以吃到最新鲜的粉皮，也能欣赏到最美的湖景光线。大多数摊位只收现金，记得带好零钱。如果计划安排一整天的Hanoi美食之旅，可以早上在老城区来一碗pho或bun cha，把Ngu Xa留到下午。