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Banh Chung:越南春节方形糯米粽 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hanoi

Banh Chung:越南春节方形糯米粽

Banh Chung是用绿叶包裹的方形糯米粽,是越南Tet春节餐桌上不可或缺的主角。本文介绍它的制作原料与吃法。

By the Wayfarer teamApr 1, 20264 min read
Close-up of traditional Vietnamese Banh Chung served during Tet celebrations in Bến Tre, Vietnam.
↑ Close-up of traditional Vietnamese Banh Chung served during Tet celebrations in Bến Tre, Vietnam.Photo by Nguyen Truong Khang on Pexels
Tags
#banh chung#tet#sticky rice#lunar new year#traditional food#hanoi
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    为什么Banh Chung在Tet如此重要

    Banh Chung是越南农历新年祭桌上不可缺少的核心供品。方形、厚实、绿叶包裹,内填糯米、绿豆与猪肉——如果你家过Tet连一对都没有,那就说不过去了。"Chung"这个字意为蒸,但实际上要在水中煮好几个小时,有时长达10至12小时。方形象征大地,圆形的Banh Giay象征苍天。两者合在一起,既是对祖先的敬奉,也是对滋养越南稻作文明的自然世界的礼赞。

    郎僚王子的传说

    Banh Chung的起源故事是越南为数不多、家喻户晓的饮食传说之一,每个孩子在学校都会学到。郎僚王子是第六代雄王的第十八子,家境贫寒——母亲早逝,家中人丁稀少。雄王宣布以献给祖先的最佳供品来选定继承人,郎僚的二十一位兄长纷纷出猎经商,搜罗各种珍馐异味,郎僚却囊中羞涩,无力效仿。

    一夜,他梦见一位神灵告诉他:"天下没有什么比稻米更珍贵。将糯米舂成圆饼献于天,用叶子裹成方饼献于地,内填咸香馅料——如此方能彰显孝道。"郎僚醒后即刻动手,精选上好糯米,以绿叶包裹绿豆猪肉馅,煮成方形粽子(Banh Chung),又将糯米舂制成圆饼(Banh Giay)。

    众王子献上供品,雄王品尝了郎僚朴素的粽饼,认为其胜过一切山珍海味,以之祭祀祖先,并颁令越南各家每逢Tet均应制作此饼,同时将王位传于郎僚。这个节日甚至曾因他而得名"Tet Lieu"。

    Hanoi Montage

    图片来源:Cheong。原始上传者为英文维基百科用户 Cheong Kok Chun,经 Wikimedia Commons 发布(CC BY-SA)

    一只正宗Banh Chung的原料

    包叶: 新鲜的"La Dong"(Phrynium叶)是标准用料,要选叶片宽大、色泽翠绿、质地均匀、无破损的嫩叶。部分地区在La Dong难以取得时,会改用"La Chit"、芭蕉叶或"La Bang"。

    捆绳: 用盐水浸泡或蒸软的细竹篾条"Lat Giang"。捆绑需要相当的腕力——将Banh Chung扎紧到足以撑过10小时水煮而不变形,是一门真正的手艺。

    糯米: 选用当季收获的糯米,以"Nep Cai Hoa Vang"品种或高地糯米为佳。米粒应饱满圆润、黏性均匀,新米尤为清香。

    绿豆: 以产自Thanh Hoa、Nghe An、Ha Tinh、Phu Tho丘陵地带的绿豆品质最佳,煮熟后香糯粉软。收获后经日晒、风选,存入陶罐保存。

    猪肉: 选用传统"Lon I"猪的五花肉(Thit Ba Chi),这种猪以天然麸皮和蔬菜饲养,不使用生长激素。肥瘦相间的比例使馅料丰腴润口。腌制猪肉切勿用鱼露,否则会加速粽子变质。只需盐和黑胡椒即可。

    调料: 黑胡椒、盐。旧时Hanoi部分家庭会在馅料中加入豆蔻或"Ca Cuong"精油,但现在已十分罕见。

    色泽: 绿色来自将La Dong叶较深的一面贴着糯米放置。部分厨师会添加班兰叶或高良姜汁,以增添香气并呈现翡翠般的碧绿色。市面上有商贩在煮粽水中加入电池酸液以强行增色——切勿效仿。据家庭厨师反映,使用镀锌铁锅(而非铝锅)能安全地获得较好的色泽。

    Hanoi Vietnam The-omnipresent-plastic-chairs-01

    图片来源:CEphoto, Uwe Aranas,经 Wikimedia Commons 发布(CC BY-SA)

    怎么吃Banh Chung

    Tet祭桌上,Banh Chung与Banh Giay成对摆放。部分家庭会将外层叶子剥去,以新鲜叶子重新包裹,用红绳扎好再供奉。到了开吃的时候,用捆粽子的竹篾条斜切——这样每块都能均匀带到馅料。也可横切,中间几片馅料会更丰厚。

    搭配腌洋葱(Dua Hanh)、鱼露,或加少许胡椒的酱油一同食用。Tet之后粽子变硬,可切片用油煎至两面金黄酥脆,配腌菜和Gio Lua(越南猪肉肠)同食,解腻爽口。

    在Thanh Hoa、Nghe An、Ha Tinh一带,人们习惯将Banh Chung蘸糖蜜食用。有民谣为证:"剥开Banh Chung,请先生蘸糖蜜。"

    Banh Chung Dai(长条Banh Chung)

    在Phu Tho、Vinh Phuc、Bac Ninh、Bac Giang以及Hanoi部分地区等中部和山地省份,方形Banh Chung多用于祭祀场合。日常食用更偏爱长筒形的"Banh Chung Dai"(又称"Banh Tay")。原料相同,形状不同,横切成片,称为"Dong Banh"。