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  3. 深夜的 Banh Gio:去哪里寻找河内最棒的宵夜肉粽
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hanoi

深夜的 Banh Gio:去哪里寻找河内最棒的宵夜肉粽

Banh gio 是河内标志性的金字塔形蒸肉粽,内馅包含猪肉、木耳和香蕉叶香气,而品尝它的最佳时间是在深夜。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
A close-up of a person crafting traditional Vietnamese banh tet, showcasing cultural craftsmanship.
↑ A close-up of a person crafting traditional Vietnamese banh tet, showcasing cultural craftsmanship.Photo by Vietnam Tri Duong Photographer on Pexels
Tags
#banh gio#hanoi#guide#food#street food#late night#old quarter
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最后更新 · Sep 21, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    大多数人将“banh gio”与早餐推车和早市联系在一起。这种认知其实忽略了它另一面。在 Hanoi,这种肉粽在晚上10点后有着截然不同的“第二人生”。当白天的摊贩收摊后,一群更安静、更专注的食客便接管了街头——有 xe om 司机、学生、夜班工人,以及偶尔因为失眠而误打误撞发现这份美味的外国游客。

    如果你以前没吃过:banh gio 是一种蒸米粉粽,呈金字塔状,用香蕉叶紧紧包裹。内馅是猪肉末、木耳,有时还会加入少量猪油,以保持口感不干柴。好的 banh gio 外皮薄而微透,拆开时形状完整,用勺子一拨即开。差的则口感粘糊、沉重或调味不足。好坏的区别在于米粉比例以及摊主的手艺。

    Hanoi 的深夜 banh gio 摊位并不集中在某一个区域,但有几个值得一去的地方。

    Hang Giay 街,老城区

    老城区北缘,靠近 Hang Giay 和 Nguyen Thien Thuat 的路口,有一小群流动摊位在晚上9:30左右摆出,一直营业到卖完为止——通常根据当晚情况在凌晨1点或2点收摊。寻找那位把推车停在路口最近的黄色路灯下的女士;她已经在那里摆摊多年,她的 banh gio 大小适中(不会过大且面粉感太重),内馅调味精准,而不只是咸味。

    价格:每个 15,000–18,000 VND。如果想搭配口感更粘、更甜的食物,她的摊位也卖“banh it tran”。

    Phuong Mai 街,栋多区

    这里游客较少,更显地道。在 Phuong Mai 街,Kim Lien 公园以南约200米处,有一个从晚上10点营业到凌晨3点的摊位。摊主是一位五十多岁的男士,他选用的香蕉叶非常新鲜——当你拆开粽子时,能闻到那股清新的草木香。他包粽子的手法比大多数人更紧实,这意味着皮馅比例更完美。如果你想坐在塑料凳上,和当地人一起享受美食,这里是最佳选择。

    价格:15,000 VND。请准备好小额现金。

    河内老城区夜晚热闹的街头美食场景,摊位林立。

    摄影:Nguyễn Hưng,来源:Pexels

    Xa Dan 街,栋多区

    Xa Dan 街有着更丰富的深夜饮食文化——这是一条长街,附近大学的学生流量很大,banh gio 推车在晚上9点后会准时出现。要找的是那个靠近 Kham Thien 路口的摊位,标志是绿色的遮雨棚和一个用于保温的小型燃气灶。这位摊主会在打包前在粽子上加一片“cha lua”(越南猪肉卷),有些人很喜欢,有些人则觉得多余。值得尝试一次,形成你自己的评价。

    价格:加 cha lua 为 18,000–20,000 VND。

    一位老妇人在中国福州的街市蒸包子。黑白摄影。

    摄影:Darry Lin,来源:Pexels

    搭配建议

    Banh gio 通常会配上一小碗“nuoc cham”——这是一种比春卷蘸酱更稀、更清淡的蘸水,通常醋味更浓。有些摊主在递给你之前,会在打开的粽子上撒一点胡椒粉。接受它,这是最地道的吃法。

    如果摊位也卖“banh cuon”(蒸米卷),建议两者都点。它们遵循同样的烹饪逻辑——米粉、精细蒸制、猪肉馅——放在一起吃,能让你感受到口感和包裹技术上的细微差别。

    至于附近的饮品,Hang Giay 和 Xa Dan 街的深夜“ca phe sua da”摊位在肉粽摊营业时也都在开。晚上11点喝一杯冰奶咖配一个 banh gio,这种组合无需任何理由。

    几点实用建议

    大多数摊位只收现金,且没有英文菜单——用手指比划数量,递上一张 20,000 VND 的纸币即可。粽子刚出锅时很烫,请等待60秒再吃,以免烫伤舌头。如果香蕉叶看起来干裂或有淡淡的霉味,说明这批货放太久了;请换下一家。