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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · ho-chi-minh-city

在Saigon哪里能吃到最棒的Che Ba Mau

Saigon的三色甜点便宜、冰爽且随处可见,但好坏之间的差距非常大。以下是让你花15,000 VND物有所值的推荐去处。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Colorful Vietnamese dessert bowls with chè in Hội An, Vietnam's vibrant culinary street scene.
↑ Colorful Vietnamese dessert bowls with chè in Hội An, Vietnam's vibrant culinary street scene.Photo by Nguyễn Thị Thảo Hà (Ha Nguyen) on Pexels
Tags
#che ba mau#ho chi minh city#best of#food#street food#dessert#district 1#district 5#cholon
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    Bun Rieu: A Complete Guide to History, Variants, and How to Order

    一碗美味的“che ba mau”(三色甜点)几乎花不了多少钱,却能瞬间治愈Saigon的午后时光。问题在于,糟糕的版本——稀薄的椰奶、软烂的果冻、昨天开罐的豆子——和美味的一样容易碰到。以下是六个值得一试的地方,外加一个诚恳的警告。

    你到底在吃什么

    Che ba mau大致翻译为“三色甜汤”,尽管称其为“汤”有些勉强。经典的Saigon做法如下:底层铺一层煮熟的绿豆沙,中间放红豆(或腰豆),顶部是斑兰叶风味的绿色果冻块,最后淋上稀椰奶并铺上碎冰。有些摊位会加第四种颜色——黄玉米或紫芋头——但名字依然不变。口感是关键:软糯的豆子、有弹性的果冻、冰凉浓郁的椰奶与碎冰融合,汇聚在碗底。你需要自己搅拌享用。

    六个值得尝试的地方

    Che Khuc Bach 47 Ly Tu Trong

    这个位于第1区Ly Tu Trong街的小摊卖甜点的时间,比大多数顾客的年龄还要长。他们的che ba mau(15,000 VND)使用自制斑兰果冻,比大多数地方供应的工厂切块更扎实、更香。这里的椰奶稍微浓稠一些——更接近椰浆——能很好地包裹住豆子,而不是滑落。营业时间约为每天上午10点至晚上9点。仅收现金,无座位,你得站着吃或坐在外面的矮塑料凳上。

    Che 156 Pasteur

    在第3区的Pasteur街,这个摊位拥有忠实的午餐客群。价格在12,000–15,000 VND之间,是该地区较便宜的选择之一,而且老板可以根据要求调整甜度——如果你正在进行甜点巡礼,不想第一碗就甜到腻,记得说“it bot ngot”(少糖)。这里的红豆是自家烹制的,带有一丝姜味,提升了整体风味。营业时间为上午11点至下午5点;周日休息。

    Che Cô Ba — Hang Buom街(靠近老城区,但属于Saigon风格)

    别把Saigon的che和Hanoi那种更像汤的版本搞混了——这个位于第5区Nguyen Trai街旁Hang Buom街的摊位,经营的是典型的Cholon(堤岸)风格。果冻有两种:斑兰味和椰奶味。份量十足,价格在15,000–20,000 VND之间,碎冰是真正的碎冰,而不是磨得稀烂。每天上午9点至晚上8点营业。

    Che Hien Khanh — 56 Chau Van Liem, 第5区

    第5区(Cholon)是Saigon吃che的权威地标。Hien Khanh有店面而非摊位,这意味着有风扇和座位。他们轮流供应约十五种che,但ba mau是招牌。价格:18,000–20,000 VND。它的独特之处在于绿豆层——分小批现蒸现捣,而不是预先装在桶里。口感颗粒感恰到好处,不会像糊状物。每天上午8点至晚上10点营业。

    Che Khong Ten(无名摊位)— Co Giang与Co Bac街角,第1区

    有一位女士每天傍晚约4点开始在Co Giang和Co Bac街角摆摊,直到卖完为止,通常在晚上7:30左右。没有招牌,没有名字,全靠手势和信任交易。Che ba mau售价12,000 VND。果冻块非常大——从大托盘上手工切下——椰奶闻起来像是当天早上现做的。这是街头摊位最原始、最经典的形态。请在晚上7点前到达。

    Quan Che Saigon — 56 Tran Hung Dao, 第1区

    这是一个稍微面向游客的选择,但胜在坦诚。店面干净,有英文菜单,che ba mau(20,000 VND)水准稳定,虽不惊艳但合格。果冻有那种预制品的弹性,椰奶很可靠。如果你在第1区想坐在空调房里吃,这是个不错的选择。每天上午9点至晚上10点营业。

    一碗美味的亚洲甜点,配有彩色果冻块、红豆和奶油椰奶,背景是鲜艳的黄色

    图片来源:Pexels上的 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫

    避雷指南

    任何在Ben Thanh Market内部或正门附近经营的che摊位,都会向你收取35,000–50,000 VND,而味道充其量也就是机场水平。游客溢价非常高,且产品质量不值这个价。往任何方向走两个街区,你都能以一半的价格吃到更好的。

    一位戴着口罩的女摊贩在繁忙的街头市场推着色彩斑斓的餐车。

    图片来源:Pexels上的 Tuan Vy

    如何点餐

    指着ba mau选项,并用手指比出数量。如果你想要少冰,说“it da”。少糖:“it duong”。多加椰奶:“nhieu nuoc cot dua”——摊主通常很乐意配合。请立即食用;冰块融化很快,一旦稀释,椰奶就会失去口感。

    实用贴士

    大多数che ba mau摊位只收现金,不提供收据。标准碗的预算为12,000–20,000 VND;街头摊位超过25,000 VND通常就是游客价。下午2点到5点是Saigon吃che的黄金时间——摊主准备的食材最新鲜,冰块也不会从早上放到现在。