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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · can-tho

在 Can Tho 哪里能吃到最地道的 Lau Mam

Can Tho 的发酵鱼火锅味道浓郁、独特,极具南方特色。以下是当地人真正会去光顾的餐厅,按街区为您整理。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Breathtaking view of Quilotoa Crater Lake with surrounding hills under a cloudy sky in Ecuador.
↑ Breathtaking view of Quilotoa Crater Lake with surrounding hills under a cloudy sky in Ecuador.Photo by damien Saillet on Pexels
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#lau mam mekong#can tho#best of#food#mekong delta#hotpot#street food#fermented fish
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    “Lau mam”是区分好奇游客与资深食客的一道分水岭。这种火锅以“mam”(发酵鱼酱,陈化时间从几周到几个月不等)为底料,闻起来像是一场争论,吃起来却如醍醐灌顶。 Can Tho 是烹饪这道菜最出色的城市,而 Cai Khe 市场街区则是大多数正宗老店的聚集地。

    Can Tho 版本的独特之处在于 mam 本身的品质。湄公河三角洲(Mekong Delta)出产多种地方品种——mam ca loc(黑鱼)、mam ca linh(一种季节性小河鱼)和 mam ca sac——好的 lau mam 店家都是从当地发酵商那里直接采购,而不是从批发商处进货。汤底以 mam 为基底,熬煮至浓郁的臭味转化为近乎甘甜的滋味,再加入香茅、南姜和菠萝。锅中会放入茄子、空心菜、香蕉花、睡莲茎,以及厨房当天选用的河鱼或猪肉。蔬菜是必不可少的——一份正宗的 lau mam 至少要搭配八种蔬菜。

    Cai Khe 和 Ninh Kieu:从哪里开始

    Quan Lau Mam Ba Nho

    当被问及去哪吃时,这是大多数 Can Tho 当地人会提到的地方。Ba Nho 在 Cai Khe 区的 Nguyen Van Cu 街经营了二十多年,这里的 mam 底料确实非常出色——既有足够浓郁的特色,又清爽到可以让人吃完一整锅。两人份的火锅价格在 180,000–220,000 VND 之间,取决于蛋白质的选择(五花肉、鲶鱼或混合)。营业时间为 10:00 至 21:00。周末请尽早前往,否则需要排队。

    Lau Mam Co Ut

    往南走几个街区,Co Ut 在 Tran Van Hoai 的一间店面里经营着一家规模较小、更吵闹、更具烟火气的餐厅。这里的 mam 味道偏咸,菠萝味更突出——有些人喜欢这种风格,有些人则觉得味道单一。你来这里主要是为了 ca linh(灵鱼),这种鱼在 9 月到 11 月间从柬埔寨顺流而下。它们体型细小、骨软且带有一丝苦味,是湄公河的一种季节性美味,你在其他地方很难稳定地吃到。两人份火锅:160,000–200,000 VND。11:00 开门,通常到 14:00 ca linh 就会卖光。

    Quan 96 — Lau Mam Mekong

    位于 3 Thang 2 大道,靠近 Cai Khe 十字路口,Quan 96 的规模更大,更适合团体用餐。如果你有四人或以上,想要享用一顿丰盛的大餐而无需为桌位发愁,这里是最佳选择。这里的蔬菜盘特别丰盛——包括了在小店里较难见到的 rau ngo om(水芹)和 keo neo(水塔花)。mam 底料的品质稳定,但算不上惊艳。两人份火锅起价 200,000 VND;加点蛋白质需另计费。每日 09:00–22:00 营业。

    Ninh Kieu 码头附近

    Lau Mam Thanh Xuan

    从 Ninh Kieu 码头步行十分钟即可到达,Thanh Xuan 既接待当地人,也接待做过功课的游客。这里的特色在于除了火锅外,还提供一种更清淡的“mam chung”(蒸鱼酱),如果你想更直接地品尝发酵酱料的味道,非常值得点一份作为配菜。火锅本身品质稳定,但没有特别出彩之处。如果你住在河边,不想特意跑去 Cai Khe,这里是不错的选择。两人份火锅:170,000–190,000 VND。营业时间 10:30–20:30。

    Quan Lau Mam Muoi

    这个摊位在 Ly Tu Trong 街的一个波纹铁皮屋顶下经营,没有正式的招牌——当地人以店主的名字称它为“Muoi 的店”。这是榜单上最便宜的选择,两人份大约 130,000–150,000 VND,汤底的深度略逊一筹。但如果你对 mam 的采购来源感到好奇,Muoi 是最适合交流的人——她直接从 Chau Doc 的发酵商那里进货,并能准确告诉你这批酱料陈化了多久。营业时间从 11:00 左右开始,直到卖完为止,通常在 19:00 前结束。

    捕捉使用粘土模具制作越南街头小吃的复杂过程。

    图片来源:Theodore Nguyen,来自 Pexels

    一个诚恳的避雷建议

    在 Ben Ninh Kieu 码头附近聚集着几家面向游客的 lau mam 店,它们通过英文菜单和图片来吸引游客。大多数店里的 mam 底料都经过了大幅改良——发酵味较淡,味道平庸,对不习惯的人来说冲击力较小。如果你是专门为了这道菜来到 Can Tho,这些版本会让你感到失望。它们不算难吃,但那不是真正的 lau mam。

    俯瞰桌上摆放的诱人越南传统菜肴,配有炸豆腐、切片黄瓜和煮面条

    图片来源:Quang Nguyen Vinh,来自 Pexels

    配什么饮料

    “Bia hoi”——生啤,通常每杯 10,000–15,000 VND——是标准的搭配,非常合理。气泡感比瓶装啤酒更能化解火锅的浓郁油腻。一些年长的当地人只喝 tra da(冰茶),这也是不错的选择。

    实用贴士

    Cai Khe 距离 Ninh Kieu 码头约 3 公里——乘坐摩托车出租车(xe om)或 Grab 很快就能到达。大多数 lau mam 店不接受刷卡;请准备好小面额现金。如果你将 Can Tho 作为湄公河三角洲环线的一部分,ca linh 的季节(大约 9 月到 11 月)是专门规划品尝这道菜的最佳时间。