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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · ho-chi-minh-city

Cho Lon:Saigon唐人街美食之旅

在Cho Lon,几平方公里的范围内汇集了比大多数城市一个行政区还要丰富的美食。以下是如何探索这里最地道美味的指南。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Lively indoor fish market in Vietnam with vendors and colorful baskets displaying fresh seafood.
↑ Lively indoor fish market in Vietnam with vendors and colorful baskets displaying fresh seafood.Photo by Van Anh Nguyen on Pexels
Tags
#markets#street food#food#ho chi minh city#chinatown#dim sum#breakfast#noodles
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Cho Lon——字面意思是“大市场”——自18世纪以来一直为Saigon的潮州、广府和客家社区提供美食。这里比第一区更嘈杂、更拥挤,也更真实,如果你带着饥饿感前来,它绝对不会让你失望。

    从Binh Tay Market开始

    忘掉Ben Thanh Market,直接前往位于第6区Thap Muoi街的Binh Tay市场。市场大约在早上6点开门,第一个小时是最佳游览时间:批发商们行色匆匆,干海鲜和五香粉的味道与街上的柴油味交织在一起。市场本身是一座1928年的殖民时期建筑,拥有一个中央庭院和一座没人能对准时间的钟楼。你来这里不是为了购物,而是为了在沿外围聚集的摊位吃早餐。

    寻找在南入口附近推着移动小车售卖“hu tieu”的妇女。Cho Lon版本的hu tieu带有浓郁的潮州风味:清汤、细米粉、几片猪肉,以及增添了南部“hu tieu Nam Vang”风格所没有的独特咸鲜味的干虾。一碗的价格在35,000–45,000 VND之间。坐在塑料凳上,点一杯Vietnamese iced coffee,看着市场忙碌的景象。

    Trieu Quang Phuc街的早茶

    第5区的Trieu Quang Phuc街是Cho Lon享用早茶的地方。这里不是香港——没有推车穿梭于餐桌之间,茶水服务也更实用主义——但食物非常美味,价格也很公道。

    大多数店面在早上7点左右开门,生意一直持续到上午10:30左右,之后厨房就会放慢节奏。寻找那些在窗边堆放着竹蒸笼的店铺。点一份“ha cao”(虾饺)、“siu mai”(烧卖)和装满木耳碎猪肉的“banh cuon”——Cho Lon的banh cuon比Hanoi版本略甜。如果点四五道菜,人均消费预计在80,000–130,000 VND。

    一些摊位还供应带有皮蛋和咸肉的“chao”(广式粥)。如果看到,一定要点。这种味道仿佛带你回到了一个更缓慢的清晨时代。

    胡志明市Binh Tay市场外充满活力的场景,捕捉到了热闹的街头活动。

    图片来源:Pexels上的Vietnam Tri Duong Photographer

    Luong Nhu Hoc街的小巷

    Luong Nhu Hoc街是Cho Lon的香烛和纸扎店聚集区,漫步其中非常有趣,但真正的美食隐藏在向东延伸的狭窄小巷里。大多数地图上并没有标注这些小巷的名字——你得靠嗅觉去寻找。

    这里经常能发现“banh bao”——即装满猪肉、鹌鹑蛋和广式香肠的大蒸包。Cho Lon的版本比你在Saigon中心区(西贡)吃到的更大、更扎实,更接近广式原版。摊主们从安装在自行车或手推车上的蒸笼里售卖它们。价格:每个20,000–25,000 VND。

    同样值得寻找的还有“xoi man”,这是一种咸味糯米饭,上面撒有lap xuong(广式香肠)、炸葱酥和鸡肉丝。这是一个装在小泡沫盒里的完整餐点,价格约为30,000 VND。在Nguyen Trai街和Chau Van Liem街的交汇处附近有几个摊位。

    Hu Tieu Sa Dec——午餐之选

    临近中午,可以换换口味。 “Hu Tieu Sa Dec”是与早餐那碗面略有不同的品种——面条更有嚼劲,汤底更浓郁,通常还会配上猪排骨。Sa Dec风格起源于Dong Thap省,但鉴于湄公河贸易商与华人商界之间的联系,它在Cho Lon的餐饮文化中根深蒂固。

    寻找位于Nguyen Trai街(Chau Van Liem街和Phung Hung街之间)的专门店。一碗配有排骨、肉末和猪肝的完整面条价格在55,000–70,000 VND之间。记得要求“them hanh phi”(额外加炸葱酥)——这是免费的,而且能让这碗面口感升华。

    竹叶蒸笼中精致虾饺的特写。

    图片来源:Pexels上的Change C.C

    下午茶甜点:Che和豆腐花

    Cho Lon非常重视甜点。“Che ba mau”(三色甜点)随处可见,但当地值得一试的特色是“tau hu”——热食或冷食的嫩豆腐花,淋上姜糖水。它口感细腻,甜度适中,非常适合在下午3点天气炎热时享用。

    几家老派的“tau hu”摊贩在Pham Van Phu街附近经营,用小金属桶售卖。每杯价格通常为15,000–20,000 VND。有些摊位在同一个街角已经开了40年;你可以从常客身上看出哪家最地道。

    如果想吃凉的,可以在Nguyen Trai街找一家“che”店,点一份刨冰“che dau xanh”(绿豆甜汤)。它与午后的酷热非常契合,价格不到25,000 VND。

    实用贴士

    Cho Lon距离Ben Thanh Market以西约5公里——乘坐出租车约需15分钟,或者乘坐更便宜但时间较长的xe om(摩托车出租)。该地区在早上6点到中午之间最活跃;下午会安静一些,部分食品摊位在下午2点前就会关门。请准备好小额钞票(10,000和20,000 VND面额)用于街头消费,如果市场排水沟有水流,请穿一双不怕弄湿的鞋子。