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Pho ga——鸡肉河粉——比牛肉河粉更清淡细腻，Hanoi的版本堪称越南之最。这里是本地人真正常去的地方。
Last updated · May 19, 2026 · independently researched, never sponsored.
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"Pho ga"并不只是"pho bo"的清淡版。在Hanoi，它完全是另一回事——汤底熬制时间更长，整鸡水煮入锅，甜味与鲜味之间的平衡拿捏，决定了这碗面的灵魂。大多数游客找不到好馆子，因为它们藏在老城区的小巷里，或者散落在工薪阶层的街坊之间。以下是Hanoi人真正在吃的地方。
这是本地人第一个会提到的地方。位于Ba Dinh区Phung Hung街附近的一条窄巷里，Pho Ga A Trang从上世纪90年代就开始营业。汤底清澈却醇厚——用鸡骨加少量海鲜高汤慢熬而成，层次丰富。鸡肉始终煮得恰到好处，嫩滑不柴。小碗pho ga售价45,000 VND，大碗55,000 VND。每天早上6点开门，10:30前关门，只供应早餐和早午餐。没有英文招牌，可以问出租车司机或路边的当地人——人人都知道这里。
深入老城区，在夜市入口附近的Hang Gai街上，Cam Chi已经是家族经营了三十年。这里的汤底明显偏甜——鸡肝和生姜的用量比别家多——有人觉得这个味道颇具争议。鸡肉很嫩，但真正的亮点是"ga"（鸡）本身：他们上的是带骨大腿肉，而不只是鸡胸。价格：小碗50,000 VND，大碗60,000 VND。每天早上6点至11点营业。建议早到；本地人7点就开始排队了。
在老城区Bat Dan街的一段住宅区里，Thanh Huong是一家只有五张桌子的小馆子，家族经营已有40年。这里的汤底是几家中最为均衡的——不过甜，清爽而鲜美，带着隐约的海鲜气息，像是凤尾鱼的低语而非呐喊。面条比一般的略粗，每天现做。价格：小碗48,000 VND，大碗58,000 VND。早上6点至10点营业。没有英文菜单，用手指比划即可。不留意的话，这家很容易就走过去了。
摄影：Sergey Guk，来自Pexels
如果你在Long Bien桥一带，或者想走出老城区探索，Dong Huong（位于桥附近的Phom Hung街）供应的pho ga更接近北方风格——汤底更清，香气更足，八角更多，甜味更淡。这里深受早起骑车的市民和建筑工人喜爱。价格：小碗42,000 VND，大碗52,000 VND。每天早上5:30开门，10点前关门。
这家店主要面向本地食客，游客很少光顾。汤底用整鸡小火慢炖8小时以上，风味比老城区的几家更深沉、更醇厚。他们还供应加鸡杂（鸡肝、鸡胗）的"pho ga"，适合敢于尝鲜的食客——什锦杂碎碗25,000 VND。普通鸡肉河粉小碗46,000 VND，大碗56,000 VND。每天早上6点至11点营业。
与越南中部或南部更浓烈的汤底相比，Hanoi的pho ga偏甜、偏清雅。Hanoi厨师通常以70%鸡骨搭配30%海鲜高汤（干鱿鱼、凤尾鱼）熬制，而其他地区则完全不用海鲜。鸡肉始终整只水煮，从不提前斩件，这样才能保持肉质嫩滑。此外，Hanoi的pho ga几乎只作早餐——除了专门面向游客的餐厅，晚上是找不到的。本地人吃这一口，都在早上6点到11点之间。
摄影：Ama Journey，来自Pexels
越简单越好。用手指指出你要的份量（小碗或大碗）。再示意配料：大多数店家会端上一盘新鲜香草（罗勒、香菜、锯叶芫荽）和生蔬菜（洋葱、辣椒），自己动手添加。如果那盘菜看起来不够丰盛，可以问"them rau cai？"（再来点蔬菜？）。想要更多汤，说"thêm nước"（加汤）。如果你想要那种更浓、更油润、带鸡油香的pho——很多Hanoi人偏爱这一口——就说"pho ga dac biet"，或者直接说"nhiều dầu gà"（多放鸡油）。桌上常备青柠角和辣椒酱。
在Hanoi，pho ga是早餐和早午餐的专属食物。最佳体验时间是早上6:30至8:30——汤底最新鲜，排队还可以接受，鸡肉也是刚煮好的。到了10点，很多摊位的鸡肉或汤底已所剩不多，可能提早打烊。晚餐时段不要抱任何期望。如果你不是早起的人，可以在上午11点到中午去；汤底还过得去，人也少一些，但有些店可能已经卖完了。
请带现金（只收VND），这里没有一家店刷卡。碗不大，设计就是让你快点吃完的。大多数本地人会配一杯热茶或一小杯咖啡。Hanoi的pho ga，最正宗的吃法是站在塑料桌旁，手脚麻利地扒完——这不是一顿悠哉的饭，这是早餐。用这种心态去吃，你就会明白，为什么本地人对自己那家店的执念如此之深。