最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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水母米粉是Nha Trang最具特色的美食之一——口感清凉、劲道,在Khanh Hoa以外地区几乎难觅踪影。这份指南将教你如何自信地点餐并享用它。

最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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水母米粉(Bun sua)是那种听起来让人心生畏惧,但一旦尝过就会后悔没早点尝试的美味。它是Khanh Hoa沿海地区的特色小吃,主要在Nha Trang的街头小摊售卖,在越南其他地区的餐厅菜单上几乎绝迹。如果你打算在这里待上几天,一定要专门去寻觅一番。
这碗米粉端上来时是凉的或常温的——这是正常的,别以为是做错了。汤底是细米粉(与“goi cuon”所用的一样),上面铺着半透明的水母丝。这些水母经过处理去除了毒素,焯水后迅速冷却。汤底清淡微甜,由猪骨或虾熬制,不会有厚重感。配菜通常包括新鲜香草、豆芽、辣椒片、青柠汁,旁边还会配上一勺虾酱("mam tom")——如果你不习惯这种味道,记得少放一点。
人们最担心的往往是水母的口感。它紧实且带点脆爽,介于粉丝和切薄的鱿鱼之间。它本身没什么味道,主要是吸收了周围汤汁的鲜美。一旦你克服了最初的好奇心,就会发现这是一碗清爽、无负担的美味,非常适合Nha Trang炎热的海岸气候。
Bun sua摊位最集中的地方是Cho Dam市场周边以及Nguyen Thi Minh Khai街沿线,距离主海滩区约1.5公里。这里是当地人的生活区,而非游客聚集地,因此价格非常公道。
位于Nguyen Thi Minh Khai的Bun Sua Ba Tuoi是当地人最常推荐的店铺之一。这是一家小店,只有塑料凳和几张桌子,在早上6:30到9:00之间生意火爆。根据分量大小,一碗价格在25,000–35,000 VND不等。他们卖完即止,通常在上午10:00前就关门了,所以不要计划太晚去。
另一个可靠的选择是位于Phan Boi Chau的Cho Xom Moi(Xom Moi市场)内外的小摊群,距离市中心约10分钟车程(xe om)。这里有多个摊位并排售卖Bun sua,如果一家卖完了,可以换一家。价格范围和营业时间都差不多。
如果你住在海滩附近不想跑太远,Nguyen Dinh Chieu街沿线从早上6:00左右也会出现一些摊位,不过选择较少,卖完的速度也更快。

摄影:Tuan Vy,来源:Pexels
这是初学者最容易卡壳的地方。摊主通常英语水平有限,但只要掌握规律,点餐就很简单。
走过去,用手指比出你要几碗。如果被问到后续问题(通常是关于分量),回答**"nho"(小份)或"lon"**(大份)。然后坐下,碗就会端到你面前。
桌上通常会有:
吃之前把碗底的配料搅拌均匀,水母会沉在下面。
结账时说:"Tinh tien",或者直接在手掌上比划写字的动作。请准备现金——这些摊位不接受刷卡。
Bun sua是早餐和早间小吃。大多数摊位在早上6:00到7:00之间开门,最晚到10:00或10:30结束。想在午餐时间吃到通常会扑空。
从某种意义上说,它是季节性的——水母的供应量会有波动,一些摊位在淡季(大约5月到8月营业时间会缩短)可能会关门。如果你在旺季(12月到3月)前往,供应非常稳定。
Nha Trang的街头美食区大多远离海滨酒店。前往好的Bun sua摊位需要乘坐短途xe om或Grab——从主海滩路出发,单程预算在20,000–40,000 VND左右。

摄影:FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫,来源:Pexels
不要把Bun sua和"bun ca"(鱼汤米粉)搞混了,后者在Nha Trang也很受欢迎,有时会在同一个摊位售卖。Bun ca是热的,口味更重,也更常见。如果你坐下后,端上来的是一碗冒着热气、汤底清澈呈橙色且带有鱼块的米粉,那就是Bun ca——虽然也很棒,但不是你此行的目标。如果需要,可以指指别人碗里的凉米粉,或者点餐时清楚地说出**"bun sua"**。
准备好小额钞票——20,000和50,000 VND的纸币最方便。大多数摊位最晚早上7:00开门,上午就会卖完,所以记得定个闹钟。Cho Dam和Nguyen Thi Minh Khai区域是寻找美食最稳妥的选择。