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菊芳国家公园:越南历史最悠久、面积最大的自然保护区 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · north · ninh-binh

菊芳国家公园:越南历史最悠久、面积最大的自然保护区

越南最古老的国家公园坐落于宁平省的石灰岩山麓,拥有2,000种植物、97种哺乳动物和三大野生动物救助中心。这里是徒步爱好者和自然保育人士的重要目的地,绝非随意路过的顺游景点。

By the Wayfarer teamMar 31, 20265 min read
A breathtaking aerial view of lush green fields and winding rivers in Tam Coc, Ninh Bình, Vietnam.
↑ A breathtaking aerial view of lush green fields and winding rivers in Tam Coc, Ninh Bình, Vietnam.Photo by Hugo Guillemard on Pexels
Tags
#national park#nature#wildlife#conservation#hiking#ninh binh#endangered species#caves
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    菊芳国家公园于1960年建立为森林保护区,1962年正式升格为国家公园,至今仍是越南面积最大的自然保护区。公园横跨北部红河三角洲的宁平省,以喀斯特山地为主体,最高峰May Bac(银云山)海拔656米。

    来这里的游客通常有两个目的:徒步登山和观察野生动物。如果只想随意散步,这里并不适合你。菊芳需要你付出努力——穿越原始森林的数小时徒步、洞穴探险,以及与正在参与保育项目的濒危物种近距离相遇。

    地形地貌与游览预期

    公园位于北部长山山脉山麓,地貌以石灰岩山体和河谷交错为主。海拔从河谷地带的150米到May Bac山顶的656米不等。石灰岩地层遍布洞穴——许多已向游客开放,部分仍在探勘中。

    天气至关重要。旱季(11月至2月)是最佳时节:平均气温约21°C,白天最高可达30°C,高海拔地区夜间气温接近冰点。雨季(3月至10月)年降雨量达2,100毫米,全年超过200天有雨。山谷中的湿度令人窒息,出行前务必做好规划。

    公园入口处有铺装道路,入园后则是整备完善的步行小径。护林员提供收费导览服务。公园在入口处及园区深处均设有基本住宿和餐厅,如果行程允许,可以在园内住一晚。

    动植物资源

    菊芳国家公园以其生物多样性享誉国际。园内记录有2,000种维管植物、97种哺乳动物、300种鸟类、36种爬行动物、17种两栖动物及数以千计的昆虫。其中许多物种濒临灭绝,被列入越南濒危物种红皮书。

    森林本身形成多层次冠层结构,其中不乏高达70米的突冠乔木,如Tetrameles nudiflora和Carya sinensis。兰花与蕨类植物附生于枝干之上,地面层则有藤蔓在树干间纵横交错。公园内的木材、药用植物、可食用果实和坚果至今仍供当地社区采集利用。

    野生动物观察者可留意猕猴、长臂猿、弗朗索瓦叶猴和蜂猴。也有机会见到豪猪、鼯鼠,运气好的话还能看到罕见的黑巨松鼠。历史上公园曾有亚洲黑熊、大象、犀牛和老虎栖息,但过度猎捕已使大多数大型物种绝迹。豹和云豹或许仍在更深处的林区游荡。

    观鸟者可以寻找花尾榛鸡、白鹇、灰孔雀雉、犀鸟、镰嘴鹛和白翅蓝鹊。迁徙性画眉、鹟和雀类则会随季节过境。园内甚至有一种在其他地方完全找不到的特有洞穴鱼类。

    Cuc.Phuong.National.Park

    图片来源:No machine-readable author provided. Ravikiran r assumed (ba via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)

    救助中心:这座公园的深远意义

    菊芳国家公园内设有三个严肃的野生动物保育项目——这里不是供人把玩的动物园,而是正在运营的研究与繁殖机构。

    濒危灵长类动物救助中心(EPRC)

    该中心于1993年在法兰克福动物学会的支持下成立,专门救助和康复从非法野生动物贸易中没收的叶猴、长臂猿和蜂猴。中心内设有50个笼舍、4栋房屋和两个半野化围栏,共收容180只动物,包括德氏叶猴、金头叶猴、黑冠长臂猿等极度濒危物种。游客可申请观察救助工作(可在公园入口处询问导览安排)。

    肉食动物与穿山甲保育项目(CPCP)

    该项目于1995年启动,负责救助和繁育灵猫、林狸、小型猫科动物、黄鼬、穿山甲和水獭。项目运营着越南唯一的欧氏灵猫繁育设施,这种印度支那特有物种正濒临灭绝。自2006年起,项目扩展至保护越南境内的两种穿山甲——中华穿山甲和马来穿山甲——均因非法贸易而面临严峻威胁。CPCP在全国范围内开展工作,在越南中部和南部均设有野外团队,但总部设于此处。

    龟类保育中心

    该中心于1998年建立,收容越南最濒危的龟类,其中包括野外种群几近灭绝的越南池龟。规模虽小,但在龟类繁育与放归项目中发挥着不可替代的作用。

    历史与居民

    菊芳地区的人类活动可追溯至7,000至12,000年前。考古人员在园内洞穴中发掘出石斧、骨矛、牡蛎壳刀和研磨工具,证实了新石器时代人类在此定居的历史。1789年,Quen Voi地区曾发生一场地区冲突中的战役。

    约2,500名芒族少数民族世代在公园范围内生活、耕作和狩猎。1987年,约500名芒族居民作为保育举措的一部分被迁移至公园外,以减少盗猎和土地开发压力。这折射出一个长期存在的矛盾:如何在保护野生动物与保障当地居民生计之间寻求平衡。

    Thousand year old tree in Cuc Phuong National Park, Vietnam

    图片来源:TomFitzhenry via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)

    游览信息

    菊芳国家公园每年吸引数万名越南游客,同时也有稳定的国际游客到访。公园全年开放,但11月至2月的旱季最适合徒步。从Hanoi出发当天往返完全可行(向南约2小时车程至宁平),但在园内住一晚可以深入探索——清晨徒步是观察野生动物的最佳时机。

    宁平附近其他景点:发艳主教座堂、华闾古都、Tam Coc-Bich Dong(洞穴皮划艇)、Trang An和Bai Dinh寺。

    常见问题

    如何从Hanoi前往菊芳国家公园?

    文中未具体说明从Hanoi到菊芳的确切距离或交通方式。根据文章内容,公园位于北部红河三角洲的宁平省,入口处有铺装道路可达。如需了解具体距离、行程时间及巴士或摩托车路线,请参阅最新交通攻略——本文聚焦于公园本身,不涉及前往方式。

    在菊芳实际上能看到哪些野生动物?

    园内栖息有猕猴、长臂猿、弗朗索瓦叶猴、蜂猴、豪猪和鼯鼠。观鸟者可寻找白鹇、犀鸟、灰孔雀雉和白翅蓝鹊。在救助中心,可以观察正在接受康复治疗的德氏叶猴、金头叶猴、黑冠长臂猿、灵猫、穿山甲和水獭。熊、大象、老虎等大型物种已因过度猎捕而消失,但豹或许仍在偏远地区出没。

    菊芳国家公园最佳游览时间是何时?

    推荐旱季,即11月至次年2月。平均气温约21摄氏度,白天最高可达30度,高海拔地区夜间气温接近冰点。雨季为3月至10月,年降雨量2,100毫米,全年雨天超过200天。雨季山谷湿度极高,徒步和洞穴探险的难度大幅增加。

    实用提示

    请穿着结实的登山靴(小径泥泞且多树根)。驱虫剂必不可少。公园内有水和简单零食供应,但建议自备额外补给。救助中心按时间表开放参观——请在入口处确认参观时间。如果你热衷观鸟,建议聘请一位携带望远镜的向导,收获会大不相同。

    这里不是"随便逛一小时"的地方。至少预留半天时间,最好安排一整天或住宿一晚。