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Cuc Phuong 国家公园:旅行者指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · north · ninh-binh

Cuc Phuong 国家公园:旅行者指南

规划 Cuc Phuong 国家公园之旅所需的一切信息——这是越南最古老的保护林,距离 Hanoi 仅 120km。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 22, 20266 min read
Entrance gate to Cuc Phuong National Park, surrounded by lush greenery in Ninh Bình, Vietnam.
↑ Entrance gate to Cuc Phuong National Park, surrounded by lush greenery in Ninh Bình, Vietnam.Photo by Hồng Quang Official on Pexels
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#vuon quoc gia cuc phuong#ninh binh#north#destinations#national park#wildlife#hiking
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    简介

    Cuc Phuong 国家公园是越南的第一个国家公园,建于 1962 年,占地 22,200 公顷,拥有原始的热带石灰岩森林。它横跨 Ninh Binh(닌빈 / 宁平 / ニンビン)、Ha Nam 和 Nam Dinh 省的边界,不过正门完全位于 Ninh Binh 一侧。公园内栖息着 2,000 多种植物、300 多种鸟类以及几种极度濒危的灵长类动物——包括地球上最稀有的灵长类动物之一德氏叶猴(Delacour's langur)。

    这里不是修剪整齐的城市公园。森林地面藤蔓交错,湿气逼人,那些拥有千年历史的古树让人感觉仿佛置身于另一个地质时代。如果你想在越南北部(베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)体验未经旅游业粉饰的纯粹自然,这里就是你的不二之选。

    为什么值得一去

    大多数人游览 Cuc Phuong 是出于以下三个原因之一:灵长类动物救援中心、洞穴与徒步步道,或是为了观赏蝴蝶季。观鸟者全年都会来此,不过与普通游客相比,他们往往停留时间更长,探索得也更深入。如果你已经在探索 Ninh Binh,这座公园也非常适合作为一日游或过夜的周边游目的地——Tam Coc 和 Hoa Lu 距离这里仅约 45km。

    这里不是极限运动的目的地。没有高空滑索,也没有河道漂流。你能体验到的是一片真正古老的森林、维护良好的步道,以及可以近距离观察的生态保护工作。

    最佳游玩时间

    最佳游玩时间是 10 月至次年 4 月——此时正值旱季,气温较凉爽(18-25°C),步道状况良好。12 月和 1 月的夜晚可能会出奇地冷,所以如果打算过夜,请带上一件抓绒衣。

    4 月和 5 月是蝴蝶季。成千上万只蝴蝶会铺满某些步道,尤其是在公园中心附近。这个窗口期很短——通常只有两到三周——想要赶上需要一点运气。

    尽量避开 6 月到 9 月。大雨会让步道变得湿滑,水蛭也会大量出没。雨中的森林固然美丽,但跋涉起来非常吃力。

    如何前往

    从 Hanoi 出发,Cuc Phuong 大约在西南方向 120km 处,驾车或骑摩托车大约需要 2.5 到 3 小时,具体取决于出城时的交通状况。

    骑摩托车: 沿 QL1A 向南穿过 Ha Nam 省,然后在 DT477 向西转,朝公园大门方向行驶。最后 20km 是一条穿过稻田的宁静双车道,骑行非常轻松。

    乘巴士: 从 Hanoi(하노이 / 河内 / ハノイ)的 Giap Bat 车站乘巴士前往 Nho Quan 镇(约 80,000-100,000 VND,2 小时)。从 Nho Quan 出发,雇一辆“xe om”(摩托车出租车)行驶剩下的 20km 到达公园入口——预计花费 60,000-80,000 VND。

    包车/私人接送: 从 Hanoi 出发的带司机往返一日游价格约为 1,200,000-1,500,000 VND。大多数 Ninh Binh 的酒店都可以安排,或者你也可以通过 Hanoi 的旅行社预订。

    门票:每人 100,000 VND(截至 2024 年)。聘请向导需另外付费。

    探索 Ninh Binh 中心茂密的丛林小径,展现生机勃勃的绿意。

    图片由 Karolina 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    游玩项目

    徒步寻找千年古树

    公园最受欢迎的路线从入口延伸 18km 到公园中心,那里有一棵巨大的“cho chi”(四数木)高耸于树冠之上。这段路的大部分路程可以开车或骑车,最后一段需要步行。这棵树真的非常巨大——高约 50m,板状根大到人可以站在里面。

    参观濒危灵长类动物救援中心

    该中心自 1993 年起由德国和越南合作运营,收容了从非法野生动物贸易中没收的叶猴、懒猴和长臂猿。导游服务在固定时间(9:00、10:00、13:30、15:00)进行,时长约一小时。你可以近距离观察德氏叶猴——野生数量已不足 300 只。除公园门票外,无需额外付费。

    探索 Nguoi Xua 洞穴(史前洞穴)

    从公园入口出发,经过短暂的徒步即可到达一个洞穴,这里曾发现距今 7,500 年的石器和人类遗骸。洞穴本身并不大——只有一个大洞室——但其石灰岩地貌和森林环境让它值得一游。请自带头灯或手机手电筒。

    徒步云端步道

    如果想挑战更高难度,前往银云峰(Dinh May Bac,海拔 648m)的步道往返需要 4-5 小时,且必须聘请公园向导(5 人以内团队 350,000 VND)。这条步道很陡峭,有些地方没有路标,穿过茂密的原始森林。登顶后,喀斯特地貌的壮丽景色将是你最好的回报。

    夜间探照灯之旅

    如果你在园内过夜,公园会提供带导游的夜间徒步活动(19:00 开始,每人约 200,000 VND)。麝香猫、蜂猴和巨型飞鼠是主要寻找的目标。虽然不能保证一定能看到,但夜晚的森林——充满了各种声音和动静——本身就是一种难得的体验。

    附近就餐指南

    公园中心有一个简易食堂,供应碟头饭和汤面,但味道平平。最好在进出公园的路上,在 Nho Quan 镇用餐。

    可以在主路沿线寻找“com binh dan”(平民快餐饭)餐馆。值得一试的当地特色菜是“com chay”——酥脆的锅巴配上羊肉或炒蔬菜。Ninh Binh 省以羊肉菜肴闻名,Nho Quan 有几家专门的“thit de”(羊肉)餐厅。一份双人全羊火锅大约需要 250,000-350,000 VND。

    住宿指南

    公园内: 公园中心附近有简易的平房和一家招待所。房间价格在每晚 300,000-600,000 VND 之间——干净但简陋。周末需提前预订。

    入口附近的民宿: Khanh 村有几家家庭经营的民宿,房间价格为 200,000-400,000 VND。简单温馨,还能吃到家常晚餐。

    Nho Quan 镇: 经济型酒店价格在 250,000-500,000 VND 之间。没有豪华设施,但提供热水和空调。

    如果你打算结合 Ninh Binh 的观光行程,大多数游客会选择在 Tam Coc(有 30 多家招待所,价格 400,000-1,200,000 VND)落脚,然后将 Cuc Phuong 作为一日游目的地。

    越南 Ninh Binh Tam Coc 郁郁葱葱的田野和蜿蜒河流的壮丽鸟瞰图。

    图片由 Hugo Guillemard 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    实用提示

    • 携带驱蚊剂。森林里的蚊子非常凶猛,尤其是在水源附近。
    • 在步道上穿长裤和包头鞋。走过铺砌路面后,人字拖是行不通的。
    • 尽早出发。公园大门 7:00 开放,早晨气温升高前是观察野生动物的最佳时机。
    • 如果想参加夜间游览,必须在公园内过夜——天黑后不允许驱车离开。
    • 深入几公里后,手机信号就会时断时续。进入前请下载好离线地图。

    常见误区

    将其视为走马观花的停靠点。 一些游客试图在 Tam Coc 和 Hanoi 之间挤出半天时间游览 Cuc Phuong。公园很大且分散——仅从大门开车到中心就需要 40 分钟。至少预留一整天时间,如果可能的话最好过夜。

    跳过灵长类动物中心。 很容易把它当成旅游陷阱而直接走过。其实不然——这是一个严肃的生态保护项目,也是你观赏那些在野外绝难见到的物种的最便捷途径。

    在春季的周末前往。 3 月到 5 月的周六早上,越南的学生团会涌入公园。工作日则会安静得多。

    实用说明

    Cuc Phuong 很适合与 2-3 天的 Ninh Binh 探索之旅结合——乘船游览 Tam Coc、参观 Hoa Lu 寺庙以及游览 Trang An。如果你之后要向南行进,这座公园也是前往 Phong Nha 途中的一个理想停靠点。建议为公园预留一整天的时间,如果想参加夜间游览和深度徒步,则预留两天。