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Kem Trong, Ninh Binh:旅行者指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · north · ninh-binh

Kem Trong, Ninh Binh:旅行者指南

Kem Trong 是 Ninh Binh 附近一条宁静的石灰岩河道,大多数游客都会完全错过这里。在出发前,你需要了解以下信息。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 18, 20266 min read
Crowd of people floating on river between grassy fields near green lush trees during trip in Vietnam in Tam Coc
↑ Crowd of people floating on river between grassy fields near green lush trees during trip in Vietnam in Tam CocPhoto by Son Tung Tran on Pexels
Tags
#kem trong#ninh binh#north#destinations#karst#day river#boat trip
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    Kem Trong 位于 Day River 穿过狭窄石灰岩喀斯特走廊的地方,大约在 Tam Coc 东北方向 15 km 处。这是一个只要你稍微偏离常规旅游路线就能获得惊喜的地方——没有售票亭,没有高音喇叭,只有一叶扁舟在悬崖峭壁间穿行,头顶还有飞鸟盘旋。

    景点介绍

    Kem Trong 是一个天然的河流峡谷,石灰岩山脉在 Day River 两岸紧紧相逼,形成了一条长约 3 km 的通道。这个名字大致可以翻译为“狭窄的通道”——而当你坐在船上时,感觉正是如此。这里的喀斯特地貌在两岸拔地而起,高达 50-100 米,植被依附在岩壁上,繁殖季节还能看到白鹭在悬崖上筑巢。

    在历史上,这段河流是旧 Ha Nam 省和 Ninh Binh(닌빈 / 宁平 / ニンビン)的边界。随着行政区域的合并,该地区现在归属于扩大的 Ninh Binh 管辖范围。对于旅行者来说,这意味着可以更轻松地将它与其他 Ninh Binh 景点结合起来游览,而无需担心跨省交通的麻烦。

    几个世纪以来,这个峡谷一直被用作交通路线——运米船至今仍在这里穿梭,你偶尔还能看到当地渔民在水流较缓的河段劳作。

    为什么值得一去

    Kem Trong 拥有与吸引人们前往 Tam Coc 和 Trang An 相同的喀斯特河流景观,但却没有成群结队的游船。在工作日的早晨,你甚至可以独享整个峡谷。清晨的光线格外迷人——柔和的光线被悬崖漫射,倒映在碧绿的河水中。

    观鸟爱好者会专程来到这里。悬崖上栖息着成群的白鹭和鸬鹚,在较安静的河岸边也经常能看到翠鸟。如果你厌倦了拍摄与别人千篇一律的 Tam Coc 构图,这里也是一个绝佳的摄影胜地。

    最佳游玩时间

    最佳游览时间是 10 月到次年 4 月——此时正值旱季,气温凉爽,天空晴朗。1 月和 2 月的水面上可能会有些冷(早晨气温在 12-16°C),所以记得带上一件薄外套。

    5 月到 9 月是雨季。河水水位上涨,这实际上会让峡谷显得更加壮观,但在倾盆大雨时,游船行程可能会被取消。如果你在雨季前往,请尽量安排在清晨,避开下午的雷阵雨。

    如果你想享受宁静,请避开 Tet(春节)前后的几周——国内游客会来该地区探亲,其中一些人也会乘船游览。

    如何前往

    从 Ninh Binh 市中心出发,Kem Trong 位于东北方向约 15 km 处——骑摩托车或开车大约需要 25 分钟。

    骑摩托车: 最实用的选择。在 Ninh Binh 镇租一辆半自动摩托车的费用为每天 120,000-150,000 VND。沿 DT477 向东北方向驶向 Gia Vien 县,然后顺着指向 Day River 的路标行驶。道路平坦且铺有柏油,沿途会经过稻田。

    乘坐 Grab/出租车: 从 Ninh Binh 车站出发的单程车费约为 180,000-250,000 VND。请务必与司机商定好返程接送时间——一旦离开市区,Grab 的叫车成功率会大幅下降。

    从 Hanoi 出发: 从 Giap Bat 车站乘坐巴士前往 Ninh Binh(90,000-120,000 VND,2 小时),然后换乘摩托车或出租车。全程大约需要 2.5 小时。

    游客在越南 Ninh Binh 令人惊叹的石灰岩悬崖间划船,享受宁静的乘船之旅。

    照片由 Menderes Kahraman 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    游玩项目

    乘船穿越峡谷

    当地船夫在峡谷入口附近的一个小码头运营。乘船穿过通道并返回的 45-60 分钟行程,预计每人需支付 100,000-150,000 VND。游船是传统的平底舢板,由人工用手或脚划动。没有马达的喧嚣——这份宁静正是它的魅力所在。

    骑行游览周边村庄

    Kem Trong 周围的道路蜿蜒穿过稻田和小村庄。你可以从宾馆租一辆自行车(通常免费或只需 30,000 VND),花一个早晨在 Gia Vien 乡环游。沿途你会经过石灰岩露头、养鸭场和家庭经营的砖窑。

    结合游览 Van Long 自然保护区

    Van Long 位于 Kem Trong 以西约 10 km 处——这是一个以德氏叶猴(世界上最稀有的灵长类动物之一)而闻名的湿地保护区。如果你出发得早,完全可以在一个上午游览完这两个地方。Van Long 的乘船游览费用为每人 60,000-80,000 VND。

    参观 Hoa Lu 古都

    Hoa Lu 位于南边约 12 km 处,非常适合搭配游览。这里建于 10 世纪的寺庙虽然低调,但具有重要的历史意义——这是 Vietnam(베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)脱离中国统治独立后的第一个首都。门票为 20,000 VND。

    在河岸边看日落

    如果你不急着赶回镇上,峡谷入口附近 Day River 的西岸在傍晚时分光线极佳。当地人晚上会在这里钓鱼。你可以从最近的商店买瓶啤酒(一瓶 Bia Ha Noi 只要 10,000 VND),坐下来静静欣赏。

    附近美食推荐

    Kem Trong 周边属于乡村地区——不要指望能看到成排的餐厅。你最好的选择是:

    Gia Vien 镇上的 “Com binh dan”摊位 提供盖浇饭,配菜都是当天的生鲜食材——一份包含米饭、猪肉、青菜和汤的套餐大约需要 30,000-45,000 VND。

    “De tai chanh”(柠檬叶羊肉)是 Ninh Binh 周边的特色美食。DT477 沿线的几家小餐馆都有供应。一盘适合两人分享的羊肉价格在 150,000-200,000 VND 之间。这里的山羊放养在石灰岩山坡上,肉质独特,膻味比其他地方的羊肉要淡得多。

    如果想吃点更熟悉的食物,可以返回 Tam Coc,那里的旅游餐厅供应“com tam”(碎米饭)、汤面以及地道的越南咖啡。

    住宿推荐

    经济型(200,000-400,000 VND/晚): 位于 Gia Vien 或通往 Tam Coc 沿路的家庭旅馆。设施简单但很干净,通常配有摩托车停车区。

    中档型(600,000-1,200,000 VND/晚): Tam Coc 附近的民宿,环境优美,带花园,包含早餐。Ninh Binh Hidden Charm 和 Tam Coc Garden 都是靠谱的选择。

    高档型(1,500,000+ VND/晚): Ninh Binh 有几家度假村风格的住宿。Tam Coc Ecolodge 和 Nguyen Shack 是最著名的两家,距离 Kem Trong 大约 20 分钟车程。

    越南 Ninh Binh Tam Coc 郁郁葱葱的绿色田野和蜿蜒河流的壮丽鸟瞰图。

    照片由 Hugo Guillemard 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    当地人的实用建议

    • 乘船时请带上防晒霜和帽子——水面上没有阴凉处,水面反射的阳光也很刺眼。
    • 随身携带现金。峡谷附近没有自动取款机,也没有人接受刷卡。
    • 如果船夫报价超过每人 200,000 VND,那他们就是在宰客。直接走向下一艘船即可。
    • 黄昏时分河边的蚊子非常凶猛。请穿长袖或涂抹驱蚊剂。
    • 提醒船夫在最窄的河段慢点划——那是风景最美的部分,有些船夫会匆匆划过。

    避免常见错误

    去得太晚。 下午 2 点之后,光线会变得平淡,偶尔还会有旅行团出现。为了获得最佳体验,请在上午 9 点前抵达。

    因为去过 Trang An 就跳过这里。 它们是不同的。Trang An 是一个成熟的旅游产品,有洞穴和寺庙。而 Kem Trong 则是未经雕琢的自然景观,没有任何基础设施。两者都值得一去,但在 Kem Trong,你才能真正感受到原生态的地理风貌。

    没有与其他景点结合游览。 单独游览 Kem Trong 只需要半天时间。最好将它与 Van Long 或 Hoa Lu 搭配,凑成充实的一日游,这样才不枉从 Ninh Binh 驱车跑一趟。

    实用提示

    Kem Trong 最适合作为 2-3 天 Ninh Binh 行程 的一部分,该行程还可以包括 Tam Coc、Trang An 和 Hoa Lu。它并不是一个值得你专程飞来 Vietnam 的目的地——但如果你已经在 Ninh Binh,并且想找一个比热门路线更清静的地方,这里绝对是你的不二之选。