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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · nha-trang

Nha Trang Nem Nuong 初学者指南:如何从容点餐与享用

Nha Trang 的炭烤猪肉丸卷比看起来更难驾驭,也更有互动性。当一盘配料摆在你面前时,请参考这份操作指南。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Savor the rich flavors of a Vietnamese noodle soup with pork, served in a bowl with chopsticks.
↑ Savor the rich flavors of a Vietnamese noodle soup with pork, served in a bowl with chopsticks.Photo by FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels
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#nem nuong nha trang#nha trang#guide#food#street food#grilled pork#rice paper rolls#central vietnam
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Nha Trang (芽庄) 的几乎每样东西都有其独特的版本,而 "nem nuong"——炭烤猪肉丸——更是当地人引以为傲、坚信与全国其他地方截然不同的美味。他们很可能是对的。这里的版本配有独特的包裹仪式,以及一种浓郁、风味独特且与你预想中的花生酱完全不同的发酵豆酱。

    你到底在吃什么?

    在 Nha Trang,nem nuong 并不是一道用勺子就能搞定的菜,它更像是一个“组装工程”。所有配料分开上桌:一盘炭烤猪肉丸(即 nem nuong 本身)、一叠米纸、一篮新鲜香草(通常包括紫苏、薄荷、黄瓜条和青香蕉),以及一两根 "cha ram"(一种需要和其他配料一起卷进去的小型炸春卷)。

    最让人惊喜的是酱料。"Tuong"——这里使用的发酵花生和猪肝蘸酱——呈砖红色,质地浓稠,带有鱼露类蘸酱所没有的咸甜风味。它可以在桌上现调,或者预先调好盛在小碗里。千万别跳过这一步,整道菜的精髓都在这酱料里。

    如何包裹才不会弄得一团糟?

    这是让初学者最头疼的部分,而当地人通常四秒钟就能卷好一个。

    取一张米纸平铺。在中心放一片紫苏叶和几片薄荷叶。如果桌上有黄瓜片和青香蕉片,也放上一两片。放上一到两个肉丸,再放上半根 cha ram。将底边向上折起,两侧向内折,然后向前卷起。卷好后立即蘸酱食用——米纸受潮后很快会变软破裂,不宜久放。

    如果米纸感觉太硬容易裂开,餐厅通常会提供一小碗温水,用来快速浸润每张米纸。你可以问:"Cho toi nuoc de banh trang"(请给我一点泡米纸的水)。大多数店里都准备好了。

    如果可以的话,尽量两口吃掉一个卷。一口吃不完会显得很狼狈,而且容易把香草撒得到处都是。

    一盘装有虾和蔬菜的越南春卷特写。

    图片来源:Quang Nguyen Vinh,来自 Pexels

    在 Nha Trang 去哪吃?

    Quan Nem Nuong Ba Quyen

    这是大多数 Nha Trang 当地人会不假思索推荐给你的店。Ba Quyen 在 Hoang Dieu 街已经开了几十年,环境非常朴素:塑料凳、日光灯,门口还有一个正在工作的炭火烤架。一人份的全套餐点——肉丸、cha ram、米纸、香草、酱料——价格约为 60,000–80,000 VND。他们大约从早上 9 点营业到晚上 8 点,但最好的肉块通常在下午早些时候就卖光了。如果可以,请在下午 1 点前去。

    地址:Hoang Dieu 街,靠近与 Ngo Gia Tu 的交叉口,Nha Trang 市中心。

    Nem Nuong Thanh Van

    这家店位于 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai 街,因为靠近海滩酒店,游客较多,但味道依然地道。环境稍微整洁一些,组装方式相同,tuong 酱是预先调好的。价格相近,每人约 65,000–85,000 VND。大约早上 8 点开门,卖完即止——通常下午 2 点左右就关门了。

    从容点餐:你需要掌握的短语

    大多数 nem nuong 店的运作模式很简单。你坐下,他们就会上菜。这里很少有菜单——你只需要示意有几个人用餐,他们就会相应地端上几份套餐。

    • "Cho [number] phan nem nuong" — “请给我一份/两份/三份 nem nuong。”
    • "Them banh trang" — “加米纸。”
    • "Them rau" — “加香草。”
    • "Nuoc tuong them" — “加蘸酱。”

    这涵盖了你 95% 的需求。如果你想要更多肉丸,指指烤架就行,他们会明白的。

    越南 Nha Trang 充满活力且人头攒动的街头市场。

    图片来源:Tuan Vy,来自 Pexels

    配什么饮料?

    Tuong 酱味道浓郁,你需要一些清凉且味道中性的饮料来搭配。"Ca phe sua da"(冰炼乳咖啡)是大多数当地人在午餐时的首选,附近的任何 ca phe 咖啡馆一杯售价约为 20,000–25,000 VND。如果过了中午且你已经走累了,来一杯 "Bia hoi"(街头小店常见的生啤)也是极好的选择。

    几点值得注意的事项

    在 Nha Trang,nem nuong 更适合作为午餐而非晚餐。到了下午 3 点,许多好店要么关门,要么换成了精简菜单。如果你打算晚上去寻找最正宗的版本,很可能会失望。

    肉丸的外表应该有轻微的焦香,内部保持湿润——既不能发粉,也不能像橡胶一样。如果吃起来感觉像是放在保温灯下很久了,那说明烤架已经停止工作一段时间了。

    请带现金。无论是 Ba Quyen 还是 Nha Trang 大多数小型 nem nuong 店都不接受刷卡。

    实用贴士: 每人准备 80,000–100,000 VND 的预算(含饮料)。为了获得最佳口感,请在下午 1 点前去。这道菜吃起来注定会弄得有点乱,所以不要穿你心疼的衣服。