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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hanoi

Pho Cuon:河内独有、别处难寻的美味

Pho Cuon 是一种用米皮包裹炒牛肉和香草的冷食,搭配蘸水食用。这是河内的原创美食,也是越南其他地区鲜少效仿的特色小吃。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Picturesque landscape of traditional boat floating on rippling lake amidst rocky mountains covered with lush green trees against cloudless sunset sky
↑ Picturesque landscape of traditional boat floating on rippling lake amidst rocky mountains covered with lush green trees against cloudless sunset skyPhoto by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels
Tags
#pho cuon#hanoi#guide#food#street food#rice sheets#truc bach#northern vietnam
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Hanoi 有一种习惯,即创造出极具地域特色的美食,以至于在其他地方复刻它们都显得有些多余。"Pho cuon"(卷粉)就是其中之一。它诞生于 Truc Bach 湖附近的一条街道上,即便在今天,最正宗的版本依然离发源地不远。

    什么是 Pho Cuon

    忘掉名字中关于 pho(河粉)作为汤食的一切联想吧。Pho Cuon 与它那更出名的“表亲”唯一的共同点就是那张米皮。这张米皮新鲜、柔软,大约手掌宽,平铺开来,放入现炒的薄牛肉片、豆芽和一大把新鲜香草(通常是泰国罗勒和薄荷),然后卷成紧实的圆柱体,大小约等于一根粗雪茄。没有汤,也不是碗装的粉。你可以在室温下食用,将每一卷蘸入“nuoc cham”(一种酸甜咸鲜的鱼露蘸水),这种蘸水在 Vietnamese cuisine 中随处可见。

    口感是它成功的秘诀:丝滑的米皮与微焦的牛肉、爽脆的生豆芽形成对比。它清淡、快捷,在 35 摄氏度的 Hanoi 下午,它比一碗热气腾腾的 pho 更让人感到清爽。

    起源

    Pho (쌀국수 / 越南河粉 / フォー) cuon 的起源非常清晰。它发展于 Nguyen Khac Hieu 街沿线的一群小餐馆中,这条街沿着 Ba Dinh 区的 Truc Bach 湖南岸延伸。当地人有时称这里为“Pho Cuon 街”,这个名字实至名归——在繁忙的夜晚,人行道上摆满了低矮的塑料凳,空气中弥漫着牛肉油脂在热锅中翻炒的香气。

    这道菜出现在 20 世纪 90 年代,据说是那些原本就卖 pho 的摊贩为了利用手头现有的新鲜米皮而进行的改良。至于这项发明是有意为之还是偶然所致,不同的店主有不同的说法,但地理位置是无可争议的:正是这片湖畔的 Hanoi 孕育了它。

    一张在 Hanoi 西湖边享受街头美食的抓拍,捕捉到了当地文化的精髓。

    图片来源:Thuan Pham on Pexels

    在哪里品尝

    位于 Nguyen Khac Hieu 25 号的 Pho Cuon Hung Ben 是大多数当地人首推的店。它开业已久,菜单基本只有一页:Pho Cuon、"pho chien phong"(炸蓬松的方形河粉——值得一试)以及饮料。一盘八卷的价格大约在 60,000–70,000 VND 之间。座位一直延伸到人行道上。通常上午 10 点开门,卖完即止——通常在晚上 9 点前。

    隔壁的 Pho Cuon 31 (31 Nguyen Khac Hieu) 环境稍微整洁一些,价格稍高(75,000 VND 一盘),营业时间也更晚。这里的牛肉在下锅前用大蒜和鱼露腌制得更入味,有些人更喜欢这种口味。

    如果你想在离湖稍远的地方尝试,Phan Boi Chau 街上的 Quan An Ngon 为已经在老城区游览的游客提供了不错的版本,但它缺乏在发源地品尝的那种地道氛围。

    美味的 Bo La Lot,配有新鲜黄瓜片和花生。越南菜爱好者的绝佳选择。

    图片来源:FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels

    越南其他地区的情况(或为何没有)

    比较起来很简单:其他地方基本没有。Pho Cuon 是一道 Hanoi 美食,在北方之外几乎没有影响力。在 Saigon,你偶尔能在 Phu Nhuan 或 Binh Thanh 区的北方风味餐馆里找到它——通常菜单上还会伴有 bun cha 等其他 Hanoi 出口美食——但它更像是一种外来的特产,而非当地鲜活的传统。

    在 Hue 和 Da Nang (다낭 / 岘港 / ダナン),它几乎不存在。越南中部有自己卷米皮的传统——蒸制的 "banh cuon" 在口感上占据了类似的位置——但 Pho Cuon 本身从未向南迁移。

    原因可能在于结构性因素。Pho Cuon 依赖于当天制作、当天使用的新鲜河粉皮,最好在几小时内用完。它不耐运输,也不易保存。那种使它在 Hanoi 运作良好的供应链——每天早晨分销到 Ba Dinh 和 Tay Ho 的米粉生产商——在其他城市根本没有形成规模。因此,这道菜留在了基础设施完善的地方。

    几点实用建议

    Nguyen Khac Hieu 街距离 Hoan Kiem 湖区约 2.5 km——乘坐 xe om 或 Grab 约 10 分钟车程,如果天气适宜,步行穿过老城区约需 30 分钟。建议早点去吃晚餐(下午 5 点至 7 点),以免最好的米皮卖光。如果你想体验完整的湖畔风情,可以搭配湖边摊位的 bia hoi (비아호이 / 鲜啤 / ビアホイ) 一起享用。人均预算 80,000–120,000 VND(含饮料)。