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大叻的特色烤米纸小吃——配上鹌鹑蛋、虾干、蛋黄酱和炭火烟熏味——在夜晚随处可见。本文将为您解析街边摊位与室内专门店的实际区别。
最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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"Banh trang nuong" 是大叻最广为人知的街头小吃，这并非没有道理：一张薄薄的米纸放在炭火上烤制，打上一枚鹌鹑蛋，撒上虾干、香肠、葱油，最后挤上一圈蛋黄酱。整份小吃的价格在 15,000 到 30,000 VND 之间。问题不在于要不要吃——你一定会吃的——而在于你是选择在街边摊位买，还是去现在专门经营此类小吃的室内店铺坐下来享用。
这是最原始的形式，至今依然深受喜爱。下午 5 点后沿着 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai 街走，或者穿过大叻夜市两侧的小巷，你会看到摊主们蹲在小炭炉旁，每人同时照看三四张米纸。他们的动作非常快——翻转、打蛋、用小棍折叠边缘以防配料滑落，然后像折叠纸塔克一样递给你。
摊位上的标准配料包括：一枚鹌鹑蛋、虾干 (tom kho)、切片越南香肠（视摊主而定，可能是 lap xuong 或 cha lua）、葱油和少许蛋黄酱。有些摊位还会加软牛肉干 (bo kho)。你可以站着吃，或者坐在摊主临时搬出的塑料小凳上吃。价格：每份 15,000–20,000 VND。
你付出的钱买到的是那股炭火焦香。好的街边摊主会将炭火保持得足够热，使米纸在两分钟内起泡变褐，从而带来边缘微脆、带有烟熏和坚果味的基底。如果火候控制得当，蛋黄还会保持半流质状态。这种酥脆、半流质、烟熏和蛋黄酱带来的油脂香气，正是这道小吃的精髓所在。
缺点是品质不够稳定。有些摊位到晚上 9 点炭火就不足了，改用小火，这会导致米纸变得苍白且有嚼劲，而不是那种酥脆感。你通常一眼就能看出来：在足够热的烤架上，米纸放上去几秒钟内就会开始膨胀并卷曲。
在过去五六年里，大叻有几家店铺将菜单完全围绕 banh trang nuong 构建，提供餐桌旁的小型烤炉，或者直接端出改良后的升级版本。这些地方并不是专门坑游客的——当地人也经常光顾，特别是在大叻寒冷的夜晚，站在外面吃不太方便的时候。
位于 Phan Dinh Phung 街（靠近与 Nguyen Cong Tru 交叉口）的 Banh Trang Nuong Phuc Loc Tho 是大叻当地人最常推荐的店铺。营业时间大约在下午 4 点到晚上 10 点。他们提供不同尺寸——标准（单层米纸）和双层——以及配料升级：额外的鸡蛋、肉松 (ruoc)，或者配上一份辣椒青柠蘸酱。价格根据配料和尺寸在 20,000–35,000 VND 之间。
室内用餐的形式让他们可以添加一些在快速递送的摊位上无法处理的配料：比如一小堆在户外会被风吹走的肉松，或者烤好后淋上的辣椒油。你还可以拥有一个座位，这意味着你可以点两三份大家一起分享，而不必在站着时还要费力拿着折叠好的米纸。
代价是：炭火的焦香味有时没那么浓郁，因为这里的烤架是为了追求出餐量，而不是单份的极致高温。你得到的是更丰富的配料、更舒适的环境，以及稍微少一点的烟火气。
摄影：Quang Nguyen Vinh，来源：Pexels
如果你是第一次来大叻，而且正好在逛夜市，那就选街边摊。那种体验——清凉的山间空气、炭火的香气、在 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai 街站着吃——才是灵魂所在。找一个烤架火候明显很旺（米纸迅速起泡）的摊位，看着他们制作。
如果你想坐下来慢慢吃，尝试多种口味，或者是在周二夜市人流较少、一半摊位都收摊的时候，Phan Dinh Phung 街的 Phuc Loc Tho 是个可靠的选择。
无论哪种方式，一定要趁热吃。Banh trang nuong 放凉五分钟后，口感就会从酥脆变得软韧，甚至让人失望。这是一种只有两分钟黄金赏味期的小吃。
摄影：Theodore Nguyen，来源：Pexels
大叻夜市区域和 Phan Dinh Phung 街距离中心市场 (Cho Da Lat) 都在步行范围内，相距不到 500 米。大多数 banh trang nuong 摊位和店铺的营业时间为下午 4 点至晚上 10 点；周末街边摊位有时会更早出摊。请准备现金——50,000 VND 足以买两份小吃并加一份饮料。