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Phu Quoc 隐藏美食:那些没有 Google 评论的宝藏小店 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · phu-quoc

Phu Quoc 隐藏美食:那些没有 Google 评论的宝藏小店

Phu Quoc 最棒的美食并不在任何应用程序上。以下是如何找到当地人真正光顾的巷弄摊位、市场角落的厨师以及无名小店的方法。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Woman offering prayers at an incense pot in a temple in Hanoi, showcasing cultural traditions.
↑ Woman offering prayers at an incense pot in a temple in Hanoi, showcasing cultural traditions.Photo by Nghĩa Văn on Pexels
Tags
#phu quoc#food guide#city guide#food#street food#local eats#markets
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Phu Quoc Fine Dining: Where to Splurge on Vietnamese Food

    在 Phu Quoc 上那些拥有 500 条 Google 评论的餐厅确实不错。但那个没有招牌、没有英文菜单,且从凌晨 5 点就开始制作“bun quay”的摊位,那才是你会铭记于心的美味。

    为什么最好的美食不在地图上

    Phu Quoc (푸꾸옥 / 富国岛 / フーコック) 的变化非常快。Pham Ngu Lao 和 Tran Hung Dao 大街上现在挤满了主要是为了拍照打卡而存在的餐厅,价格也相应较高。但只要往内陆走一个街区,进入 Duong Dong 市场后面的居民区,经济逻辑就变了。一碗“hu tieu”的价格依然在 25,000 到 35,000 VND 之间。厨师不需要评论,她的熟客在早上 6 点就会出现,而 9 点之前通常就卖光了。

    这些地方不需要营销,因为它们根本不需要。找到它们需要花点功夫,但这种探索的过程本身就是乐趣所在。

    Duong Dong 市场:请在早上 8 点前到达

    Duong Dong 市场是大多数游客都会去的地方,但他们通常在上午 10 点才到,那时面向游客的摊位正忙得不可开交。如果你在早上 6 点到 7 点之间来,你会发现这里完全是另一番景象。

    在一楼的左后角,有几位女性在折叠桌上摆设了临时摊位。其中一位经营着“banh canh”——这是一种类似乌冬面的粗面条,配上胡椒味的鱼汤,里面还有蟹肉和猪蹄块。这里没有招牌,你只需坐在她桌边的塑料凳上,指着锅,并用手指比划你要几碗。价格是 30,000 VND。她通常在 8:30 之前就会收摊。

    在附近,找找那位卖“banh mi”的女士,她的面包里塞满了自制的肉酱和腌木瓜,而不是那种连锁店常见的馅料。面包来自两个街区外的一家当地烘焙店。售价 15,000 VND,比海滩路上卖给游客的那些 60,000 VND 的版本好吃得多。

    Ham Ninh 渔村后面的小巷

    Ham Ninh 是位于东海岸、距离 Duong Dong 约 15 公里的古老渔村,以其建在水上的高脚屋海鲜餐厅而闻名。那些餐厅环境不错,但价格是针对一日游游客的。走过那些餐厅,向左拐进主路后面狭窄的小巷,你会发现一片居民区,几户人家在自家的前厅里做生意。

    其中一家——可以通过靠在摩托车上的手写粉笔板辨认——制作“goi cuon”,用的是当天早上捕获的鲜虾;他们还有一种“banh xeo”,比 Saigon 风格的更小、更脆,里面包的是豆芽和鱿鱼丝,而不是猪肉。两个人吃得很好总共只需 80,000 到 100,000 VND。记得带小额现金,他们找不开 500,000 的大钞。

    这些地方大约在上午 11 点开门,卖完即止,通常在下午 2 点到 3 点之间关门。

    一位亚洲女摊贩在充满活力的户外市场售卖水果和蔬菜。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Vika Glitter

    夜市之外:那些无人拍照的摊位

    Phu Quoc 在 Bach Dang 街的夜市是显而易见的热门地点,吸引了大量人群。但那些通往夜市的侧街上的摊位——特别是从夜市入口向西延伸 200 米的 Vo Thi Sau 路段——几乎没有游客光顾。

    在这里,你会发现一位男士在炭火上烤“nem chua (넴쭈어 / 酸肉肠 / ネムチュア)”串,并以每串 10,000 VND 的价格装在纸杯里出售。再往前走几步,一位用单头煤气灶的女士在制作“com tam”——碎米饭配煎蛋和腌菜——她把饭装进泡沫塑料盒里,卖给送外卖的摩托车司机。她也会卖给你一份,价格 40,000 VND,墙边通常有一张低矮的塑料桌可以坐下。

    这些摊位大约从晚上 6 点开始营业。到了晚上 8 点,夜市主街已经挤得水泄不通,而这些侧街整晚都保持着宁静。

    如何找到这些地方

    没有任何应用程序能显示它们。方法很简单:在用餐时间跟着摩托车走。在 Vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム),人们吃饭很快,而且就在家附近。如果早上 7 点一家没有招牌的店外停着五辆摩托车,那就意味着里面一定有值得吃的东西。

    寻找人行道上的塑料凳、堆叠的碗和冒着热气的锅。如果有一个手写的价格牌,且主食价格在 50,000 VND 以下,那么你就找对地方了。

    直接询问你的民宿老板也比预想中有效得多。跳过“哪里有好的餐厅”这种问题——那只会得到一份游客清单。试着问:“你早餐在哪里吃?”或者“你休息日去哪里买午餐?”答案几乎总是一家没有英文菜单、也没有网络存在的小店。

    夜市中色彩斑斓的街头小摊,挂着小吃和塑料椅,越南。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Tuan Vy

    期待什么

    没有英语。非常忙碌的厨师对指手画脚的耐心有限。你可能会得到他们决定给你的东西,而不是你点的特定菜品,尤其是在只卖一种菜的摊位。这没关系——他们只做一样东西,而且做得很好。

    只收现金,务必随身携带 200,000 到 500,000 VND 的小额钞票。不要期待有收据。

    卫生是一个合理的问题。Vietnam 的市场摊位周转率很快;食物新鲜是因为必须新鲜。使用你在任何地方都会用的判断标准:热食趁热吃,选择生意繁忙、周转率高的摊位,避开任何暴露在高温下放置的食物。

    总结

    Phu Quoc 最好的美食一碗不到 50,000 VND,且从未在 Instagram 上被拍摄过。寻找它们的公式是一致的:清晨去 Duong Dong 市场,中午去渔村后巷,晚上去通往夜市的侧街。带着饥饿感去,带上小额钞票,不要指望有人会说英语——他们忙着做饭呢。