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大叻最具标志性的街头小吃——铺满鹌鹑蛋、虾米和蛋黄酱的炭烤米纸——一定要在夜幕降临后，趁着炭火的热度现烤现吃。
最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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每到晚上7点，Da Lat 的气温就会降至15到18摄氏度之间，Hoa Binh广场周边的街道便开始烟雾缭绕。这烟火气源自一排排炭火炉，每个炉架上都放着一张薄薄的米纸，在热力下慢慢鼓起气泡。这就是“banh trang nuong”——大叻当地人称之为“越南披萨”的小吃。如果吃到冷掉或复热的，那绝对是一种遗憾。
底料是一张干米纸（和做春卷用的一样），平铺在低火炭烤的铁丝网上。烘烤时，摊主会直接打入一颗鹌鹑蛋，用刷子涂抹均匀。随后，各种配料迅速铺上：虾米、葱花、一两片越南香肠（根据摊位不同，可能是cha lua或lap xuong），最后挤上一圈蛋黄酱。有些摊主还会淋上一点辣椒酱，撒上一撮炸洋葱碎。
整个过程大约需要三分钟。米纸会膨胀，边缘微微焦黄，变得足够硬挺，可以对折起来像塔可（taco）一样拿着吃。总价：每份15,000–25,000 VND，具体取决于摊位和配料数量。价格稍贵的版本会用整颗鸡蛋代替鹌鹑蛋，或者加更多的香肠。
图片来源：LUC PH@M on Pexels
Hoa Binh广场（Nguyen Thi Minh Khai街，1区）周边密集的摊位是最好的起点。这里每晚大约从下午5:30营业到晚上11点。这里至少有十几家摊位在卖banh trang nuong；排队最长的通常是那些坚持使用真木炭而非电炉的摊位——炭火气对风味至关重要。可以找找内排的12号摊位，摊主是一位在那里经营了十多年的阿姨，她家的炭火比别人更旺。她做的lap xuong（中式腊肠）口味版本售价20,000 VND，绝对值得那五分钟的等待。
Truong Cong Dinh街是大叻周末（周五至周日，下午5点至晚上11点）的步行街，整条街上都摆满了banh trang nuong摊位。这里的氛围比夜市更热闹——有街头艺人、游客和当地人——但小吃品质依然稳定。价格在15,000–20,000 VND之间。平日里这条街比较安静，但仍有几家固定摊位营业。
如果你想避开拥挤的游客，可以沿着Phan Dinh Phung街往中心市场方向走。从晚上6点左右开始，会有一些流动摊贩停在那里，用自行车或摩托车改装的小炉子烤制banh trang nuong。这些摊位通常关得较早（晚上9:30或10点左右），而且不一定有座位，但因为人流较少，摊主有更多时间把你的那份烤得恰到好处。
大多数摊主会将配料摆出来，直接指着点餐即可。如果你想指定配料，关键术语如下：trung cut（鹌鹑蛋）、tom kho（虾米）、hanh la（葱花）、cha lua（猪肉香肠）、lap xuong（腊肠）、mayonnaise（蛋黄酱）和tuong ot（辣椒酱）。要求them trung ga（用鸡蛋代替鹌鹑蛋）通常需要额外支付5,000 VND。
建议至少点两份。一份永远不够吃，而且第二份通常会更好吃，因为你已经掌握了吃它的技巧。
图片来源：Theodore Nguyen on Pexels
最自然的搭配是sua dau nanh（热豆浆），夜市摊位都有卖，每杯5,000–8,000 VND。它能中和蛋黄酱的腻感，还能让你保持温暖。如果你想喝冷的，附近的甘蔗汁（nuoc mia）摊位也是不错的选择。虽然这里也有啤酒，但banh trang nuong分量太小，更像零食——可能得吃四份才配得上啤酒。
准备好零钱：20,000和50,000 VND的纸币最方便。大多数摊位不接受刷卡。一定要趁热吃——米纸离开火源几分钟后就会变软，软塌塌的banh trang nuong会让人非常失望。大叻的夜晚全年都很冷，所以无论你几月份去，带一件轻便的外套都是明智之举。