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Bat Trang、Phu Lang 与 Chu Dau:越南三大陶瓷村对比 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · north · hanoi

Bat Trang、Phu Lang 与 Chu Dau:越南三大陶瓷村对比

三个村庄,三种截然不同的陶土传统。本文将对比 Bat Trang、Phu Lang 和 Chu Dau,并介绍如何从 Hanoi 前往这三个地方。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 15, 20266 min read
Black and white image of traditional clay jars in an outdoor setting.
↑ Black and white image of traditional clay jars in an outdoor setting.Photo by 🇻🇳🇻🇳 Việt Anh Nguyễn 🇻🇳🇻🇳 on Pexels
Tags
#ceramics#bat trang#phu lang#chu dau#craft#day trips#hanoi
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    越南北部(베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)的陶瓷制作历史已逾千年,至今仍有三个村庄在诠释着这一传统。它们在材质、美学以及对待游客的态度上,各具特色。

    Bat Trang —— 商业化之选

    Bat Trang 位于 Hanoi 市中心东南约 13 km 处,与红河(Red River)隔河相望。它是全国游客最多的陶瓷村,也是商业化程度最高的村庄,遥遥领先于其他地方。主干道 Gom Street 长达数百米,两侧密密麻麻地排满了展厅,售卖从手绘饭碗到大型落地装饰花瓶的各类商品。

    这里的陶瓷品质参差不齐。既有面向纪念品买家的量产商品,也有世代经营的家庭作坊制作的真正精致之作。如果你花点时间走到主街之外,深入展厅背后狭窄的巷弄,就会发现一些小型工作室,那里的陶工依然在使用脚踏拉坯机,并在烧木柴或煤炭的窑炉中烧制陶器。

    Bat Trang 的标志性釉色包括深邃的钴蓝白花釉、开片青瓷釉以及独特的黑褐铁釉。小件物品的价格大约从 30,000–50,000 VND 起步,而大型定制作品的价格则会迅速攀升至数百万 VND。村里的社区作坊设有一个可亲自动手的陶艺工作室,游客只需花费约 50,000–80,000 VND 就能体验拉坯制作自己的作品——如果你带着孩子旅行,或者只是想了解制作过程,这绝对是个不错的体验。

    前往该村的交通非常简便:从 Long Bien 公交站乘坐 47 路公交车,大约需要 40 分钟,车费 9,000 VND。你也可以在 Hanoi(하노이 / 河内 / ハノイ)租一辆自行车,沿着红河堤岸骑行——这是一段平坦且令人愉悦的 90 分钟骑行之旅。

    Bat Trang 通过村里的数十家出口商提供国际物流服务。如果你大量采购,有几家商店会直接代办海关文件和货运代理。对于散客,许多商店会提供基本的防震包装,方便你随身携带或托运。

    Phu Lang —— 粗犷之选

    Phu Lang 位于 Bac Ninh 省 Que Vo 县,在 Hanoi 东北方向约 60 km 处——骑摩托车或开车大约需要 90 分钟。这里没有太多走马观花的游客,这也正是它值得一去的原因之一。

    这里的陶器比 Bat Trang 的更厚重、更具泥土气息,也少了几分精致。Phu Lang 以其无釉或半釉的棕色粗陶而闻名,经过高温烧制,表面致密且呈哑光质感。富含铁质的当地陶土赋予了成品从温暖的赤陶色到深巧克力色的色彩变化。这里以实用器皿为主:储水罐、烹饪锅、屋顶瓦片和花园花盆是该村的谋生之本。这些物件生来就是为了使用,而非仅仅用于陈列。

    这里的旅游基础设施极少。你找不到精心规划的商业街,也没有配备英语导游的拉坯体验作坊。你能看到的是一个运转中的村庄——窑炉在燃烧,院子里晾晒着陶土,作坊外堆放着成品。如果你带着真正的兴趣而来,而不是摆出摄影组的架势,一些家庭会热情地欢迎你进去观看制作过程。

    Phu Lang 的陶器主要通过批发商出口,供应给欧洲和美国的花园中心及室内设计公司。面向个人的零售有限;如果你想直接购买,请带上现金并做好讨价还价的准备。

    最便捷的游览方式是从 Hanoi 骑摩托车经 1A 国道前往,或者包车一日游。这里没有便利的直达公交服务。如果时间合适,可以将 Phu Lang 与 Bac Ninh 市的行程结合起来——在那里你可以欣赏一场“quan ho”民歌表演——这样的一天会非常充实。

    双手在陶轮上熟练地塑造陶土,展现了陶瓷创作的艺术。

    照片由 Sóc Năng Động 发布于 Pexels

    Chu Dau —— 雅致之选

    Chu Dau 位于 Hai Duong 省 Nam Sach 县,在 Hanoi 以东约 60 km 处——车程与 Phu Lang 大致相同。在历史上,这里曾是越南最重要的陶瓷中心之一,在 13 至 17 世纪期间生产精美的出口瓷器。在菲律宾和印度尼西亚的沉船中曾打捞出 Chu Dau 的瓷器,伊斯坦布尔和阿姆斯特丹的博物馆中也有其藏品。

    这一传统在 17 世纪末的战争中衰落,直到 21 世纪初才被正式复兴。如今,Chu Dau 陶瓷公司在村庄原址上经营着一家集工厂与展厅于一体的机构,根据经过鉴定的历史设计生产瓷器:带有釉下蓝花的薄壁花瓶、刻有莲花图案的青瓷碗,以及带有红蓝釉上彩装饰的多彩瓷器。

    它的美学风格明显比 Bat Trang 或 Phu Lang 更为精致——陶土更细腻、器壁更轻薄、装饰更内敛。质量控制也更加稳定,因为这本质上是工匠制造,而不是松散的家庭作坊集合。

    如果你对陶瓷历史有浓厚兴趣,参观 Chu Dau 将是绝佳的选择。展厅内有关于复兴过程和考古背景的详尽解说资料。同等尺寸的瓷器价格比 Bat Trang 更高——一个中号花瓶的价格在 400,000–800,000 VND 之间——但作品也更具特色。该公司提供国际物流服务,并会为大额采购安排出口文件。

    Hai Duong 市距离这里 15 km,如果你想好好探索这个省份,值得在此留宿一晚。将 Chu Dau 与 Con Son 塔(再往前 30 km)的参观结合起来,会是一趟充实的一日游。

    一位穿着越南传统奥黛的女性坐在户外的红色长椅上,周围有文化装饰。

    照片由 TBD Tuyên 发布于 Pexels

    对比一览

    | | Bat Trang | Phu Lang | Chu Dau | |---|---|---|---| | 距 Hanoi 距离 | 13 km | ~60 km | ~60 km | | 风格 | 商业化,种类繁多 | 质朴的棕色粗陶 | 精致的历史青瓷 | | 旅游基础设施 | 完善 | 几乎没有 | 中等 | | 最适合 | 一日游,购买纪念品 | 浓厚的工艺兴趣 | 陶瓷历史爱好者 | | 国际物流 | 便捷,出口商众多 | 主要为批发 | 提供,通过工厂办理 |

    常见问题

    Bat Trang 陶瓷村距离 Hanoi 市中心有多远?

    Bat Trang 位于 Hanoi 市中心东南约 13 km 处,与红河隔河相望。最经济的交通方式是从 Long Bien 公交站乘坐 47 路公交车,大约需要 40 分钟,车费 9,000 VND。或者,你可以在 Hanoi 租一辆自行车,沿着红河堤岸骑行——这是一段平坦的 90 分钟旅程。

    越南北部的每个村庄分别以什么类型的陶器闻名?

    Bat Trang 以钴蓝白花釉、开片青瓷釉和铁釉而闻名,小件物品价格从 30,000 VND 起。Phu Lang 位于 Hanoi 东北约 60 km 处,生产无釉或半釉的棕色粗陶——质地致密、呈哑光质感且注重实用:储水罐、烹饪锅和花盆。Chu Dau 作为对比中的第三个村庄被提及,但本文的可用内容中未涵盖其具体的风格细节。

    相比于交通更便利的 Bat Trang,什么情况下更值得去 Phu Lang?

    如果游客想看到一个真正运转中的陶瓷村,而不是一个商业化市场,Phu Lang 会让你不虚此行。因为这里很少有走马观花的游客,你可以看到窑炉在燃烧、院子里晾晒着陶土,以及陶工们在辛勤工作。代价则是交通不便:从 Hanoi 骑摩托车或开车大约需要 90 分钟,没有便利的直达公交,而且几乎没有旅游基础设施或英语导游。

    实用提示

    Bat Trang 是唯一适合半日游的村庄;另外两个村庄则需要花上一整天的时间才不枉此行。如果你在 Hanoi 游玩,并且只有一天时间可以安排手工艺之旅,Bat Trang 显然是首选——但对于那些希望看到活态传统而非零售商业的旅行者来说,Phu Lang 会带来更多惊喜。Chu Dau 适合有特定兴趣的人,但如果你对越南陶瓷历史感兴趣,那里绝对值得驱车前往。