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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · sapa

Sapa的Be Chao:在西北地区品尝炒小牛肉的好去处

Sapa已悄然成为Moc Chau之外品尝Be Chao的最佳地点之一。以下是为您整理的各家摊位指南,带您寻找最地道的风味。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Close-up of a fresh and colorful vegetable stir fry being served from a pan, highlighting vibrant ingredients.
↑ Close-up of a fresh and colorful vegetable stir fry being served from a pan, highlighting vibrant ingredients.Photo by Gu Ko on Pexels
Tags
#be chao#sauteed veal#sapa#best of#food#northwest vietnam#street food
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    Sapa的Be Chao:在西北地区品尝炒小牛肉的好去处

    "Be chao"——即用姜、香茅和南姜爆炒的小牛肉——严格来说是山罗(Son La)的特色菜,起源于Moc Chau周边的牧场,那里的幼牛在凉爽气候的草地上放养长大。但这道菜已向北、向西传播,Sapa现在也聚集了一批做得非常地道的餐馆。如果您来这里徒步,却没吃过一次Be chao,那您就错过了当地美食的精髓。

    Sapa版有何不同

    Moc Chau风格的Be chao非常讲究新鲜姜的使用,且翻炒时间较长——小牛肉经过充分煎炒,边缘有时会变得酥脆,香茅则是拍碎而非切碎,这样既能让香气渗入油中,又不会产生苦味。Sapa的厨师往往会多加一点辣椒,有时还会往锅里喷洒少许当地的玉米酒("ruou ngo"),这使肉质带有一丝烟熏感,甚至有一种焦糖化的余味。这里的肉切得比山罗更薄——这更适合在海拔1,500米处使用燃气灶进行高温快炒,因为在高海拔地区,食材的烹饪特性会有所不同。

    这道菜通常配以由盐、胡椒、青柠组成的蘸料,根据厨师的背景,有时还会加入一种发酵虾酱。搭配糯米饭或蒸白米饭是标配。

    探索老街(Lao Cai)充满活力的当地市场,展示着传统工艺和纺织品。

    图片来源:Gibson Chan,来自Pexels

    去哪儿吃:六家值得一试的餐厅

    Quan Be Chao Ba Tuyen — 18 Thac Bac, Sapa Town

    这是当地人最先推荐的地方,理由很充分。Ba Tuyen经营这家店已经超过十年了,她的牛肉是从北河(Bac Ha)的供应商那里采购的,而不是从Moc Chau进口,这保证了牛肉在这一海拔高度依然保持新鲜。这里的锅气非常足——有些人可能会觉得太干,但如果您喜欢酥脆口感胜过软嫩,可以点"be chao gion"(更酥脆的版本)。单份价格在65,000–80,000 VND之间。营业时间从上午10:30左右开始,直到卖完为止,周末通常下午1:30就卖光了。请尽早去。

    Quan An Suoi May — 34 Muong Hoa, 靠近中心市场

    规模较小,环境安静,价格也稍便宜,每份55,000–70,000 VND。Suoi May制作的版本中可以看到切成薄片的南姜,这让油底更具芳香,甚至带有一种花香。这里的玉米酒(ruou ngo)风味比镇上任何地方都更浓郁。营业时间为每天上午11点至晚上8点。适合独自午餐——桌子很小,氛围更像邻里小店,而非游客餐厅。

    Cho Sapa夜市摊位 — Ham Rong街,下午6点至晚上10点

    夜市里有三四个摊位使用便携式燃气灶制作Be chao。质量因天而异,但靠近北入口的那个摊位——由一位50多岁的女性经营,大约下午6:15出摊——始终是其中最好的。她的版本使用了更干的腌料,姜味较少,姜黄味较多,这使得成品颜色更黄,风味更具泥土气息。小份价格为50,000 VND。朴实无华,配上隔壁摊位的"bia hoi"非常棒。

    Nha Hang Viet Bac — 47 Pham Xuan Huan, Sapa Town

    这是一家正规的餐厅,而非小摊,Be chao只是其西北山地菜肴菜单的一部分。小牛肉口感稳定且软嫩,酱汁比Ba Tuyen的更平衡,没那么重口。价格较高——90,000–110,000 VND——但分量更大,您可以点一份"rau rung"(野生山野菜,约35,000 VND)搭配食用。每天上午10点至晚上9点营业。如果您是团体用餐并想吃得更丰盛,这里很值得一去。

    Quan Nui Xanh — 9 Thach Son, 距离主广场下坡300米

    这是一家面向当地人的午餐点,Be chao作为每日特色菜而非固定菜单供应——建议电话确认,或在中午前直接进店询问。当有这道菜时,小牛肉非常出色:薄肉片与现切的香茅一起爆炒,辣椒的辣度非常到位。价格60,000 VND。这家店大多数日子下午1:30就关门,不提供晚餐。只收现金,不讲英语。

    避坑:Cat May街缆车站附近的Be Chao

    Cat May街上有几家面向游客的摊位,菜单上有Be chao的照片。小牛肉是预先腌制好的,烹饪前一直放在托盘里——炒出来更像是蒸出来的,等到上桌时,姜和香茅的香味基本已经消失了。价格在85,000–100,000 VND,味道平平,当Ba Tuyen或Suoi May就在步行十分钟路程内时,这里不值得一去。

    制作美味的香茅虾汤。

    图片来源:FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫,来自Pexels

    在Sapa品尝Be Chao的最佳时间

    凉爽的月份——10月至次年3月——是吃这道菜的最佳时机。在Sapa 12摄氏度的夜晚,吃上一盘热气腾腾的炒Be chao,与在8月的潮湿天气中食用是完全不同的体验。此外,在旱季,高地牛有更长的放牧期,肉质通常也更好。

    实用提示

    大多数摊位只收现金;请准备好小额纸币(20,000–50,000 VND面额)。如果您计划前往Moc Chau品尝最原始的Moc Chau风格版本,那里距离Sapa东南方向约180公里——可以作为一次独立的旅行,但那是完全不同的旅程。Sapa的版本现在已经形成了自己的特色,完全值得单独品尝。