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  3. 夜幕下的 Che Ba Mau:去哪里寻找 Saigon 最棒的深夜三色冰品
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · ho-chi-minh-city

夜幕下的 Che Ba Mau:去哪里寻找 Saigon 最棒的深夜三色冰品

Saigon 的路边甜品摊在晚餐后并不会打烊——当酷热终于消退,'che ba mau' 的小推车便会推上街头,以下几处地点非常值得你在晚上 9 点后专门前往一探究竟。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Cozy Vietnamese-themed restaurant interior featuring staff member and cultural decor.
↑ Cozy Vietnamese-themed restaurant interior featuring staff member and cultural decor.Photo by Sóc Năng Động on Pexels
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#che ba mau#ho chi minh city#guide#food
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Saigon 的夜晚,人们靠糖分和冰块续命,而“che ba mau”——这种由绿豆、红豆、斑斓果冻和椰奶浇在碎冰上组成的层叠三色甜品——是这座城市最接地气的深夜慰藉。在路边摊,一碗的价格在 15,000 到 25,000 VND 之间。你通常是站着吃,或者坐在塑料小板凳上吃。吃完一碗大约只需要四分钟。这绝不是那种需要坐下来慢慢品味的体验。

    这个名字直译为“三色甜汤”,尽管大多数版本至少有四种不同的元素组合在一起:黄色的去皮绿豆层(口感软糯,带有淡淡的泥土芬芳)、红豆或赤小豆(口感稍硬,更甜)、绿色的斑斓味果冻条(“thach la dua”),以及浇在顶部的椰奶。碎冰是必不可少的。在这种天气下,吃热的简直是一种折磨。

    为什么专门在深夜吃

    白天也有“che”小摊,但 Saigon (사이공 / 西贡 / サイゴン) 最棒的摊位遵循的是夜市逻辑:它们在人流量达到顶峰时出摊,大约在晚上 7 点到凌晨 2 点之间。晚上的椰奶更新鲜——那些从下午 5 点就开始营业的摊贩,通常已经卖到了第二或第三批。更重要的是,在中午 38°C 的高温下吃一碗碎冰甜品是生存需要,而在晚上 10 点,当气温降至相对舒适的 30°C 时,吃上一碗才真正是一种享受。

    去哪里吃

    Ben Thanh 夜市区域,第一郡

    位于 Phan Chu Trinh 街的摊位群,就在 Ben Thanh Market 的南侧,每晚从 6 点左右一直营业到最后一位顾客离开——工作日通常到午夜,周五和周六则会持续到凌晨 1:30 左右。在 50 米长的路段上挤满了四五家竞争激烈的“che”摊位。排队最长的通常是一位在这里摆摊十多年的女士;她的摊位没有招牌,但位置最靠近 Thu Khoa Huan 街的拐角处。价格:标准碗 20,000 VND,如果想要额外加椰奶则为 25,000 VND。

    Che Hien Khanh,第五郡

    在第五郡的 Nguyen Trai 街——Saigon 的唐人街走廊——Che Hien Khanh 多年来一直在这栋底层的店屋里经营。它下午 2 点开门,但最有趣的访问时间是晚上 9 点以后,那时街道本身因外面的小吃摊而变得热闹起来,人群也从学生转变为上班族和年长的华裔居民,他们将此视为每晚的仪式。这里的“che ba mau”偏向潮州口味——椰奶稍少,更强调豆类的口感,果冻也切得更厚。地址:第五郡 Nguyen Trai 街 192 号附近。晚上 11:30 左右关门。价格:18,000 VND。

    Vinh Khanh 街的 Che 小推车,第四郡

    第四郡的 Vinh Khanh 街主要以海鲜目的地而闻名,但当晚上 10 点左右吃烤蜗牛的人群开始散去时,甜品摊就会进驻,整条街随之变身。两家移动的“che”摊贩经常在这条街上出没——他们通常停在与 Hoang Dieu 街的交叉口附近。这些是真正的带轮推车,而不是固定摊位,所以具体位置每晚略有变动,但从远处很容易辨认:高高堆叠的透明塑料杯和碎冰机的声音。这可以说是氛围感最好的选择——你坐在一条弥漫着木炭和虾酱味、摩托车在你身边穿梭的街道上吃着甜品。价格:15,000–20,000 VND。

    Quan Che Khuc Bach Tan Dinh,第三郡

    这家位于 Nguyen Huu Cau 街 Tan Dinh Market 附近的小店比路边摊更精致,但依然非常平易近人。它专门经营“khuc bach”(一种源自中国的杏仁豆腐甜品),但其丰富的菜单中也提供地道的“che ba mau”。大多数夜晚营业至午夜。如果你想坐在真正的桌子旁,点几种不同的“che”品种来对比品尝,这是一个不错的选择。价格:25,000–30,000 VND。

    探索 Saigon 夜晚充满活力的街头美食文化,感受生活气息与美味。

    照片由 Sophie Roome 在 Pexels 上拍摄

    点餐建议

    当你坐下时,摊主会问你是否需要额外加椰奶(“them nuoc cot dua”)和更多冰(“them da”)。两样都说要。如果端上来的碗里果冻沉在底部,吃之前先搅拌一下——“che ba mau”的精髓在于冰块的清凉、椰奶的浓郁以及每一勺中豆类层叠口感的碰撞。

    有些摊位也提供装在带粗吸管的外带杯里的“che ba mau”,如果你打算边走边吃,这很实用。而坐在店里用碗吃,则能让你更好地控制冰块和椰奶的比例。

    一碗美味的亚洲甜品,配有彩色果冻块、红豆和浓郁的奶汁,背景充满活力。

    照片由 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ 在 Pexels 上拍摄

    实用小贴士

    准备好小额钞票——20,000 和 50,000 VND 的纸币最理想。大多数摊位不接受刷卡,在 20,000 VND 的甜品摊上用 200,000 VND 的大钞找零会让双方都很尴尬。大多数地方的高峰期是晚上 8:30 到 10:30,你可能需要排队两三分钟才能拿到一碗。这就是这种体验中唯一需要等待的地方了。