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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · soc-trang

Soc Trang 的高棉-越南风味厨房:Bun Nuoc Leo 及更多美食

Soc Trang 坐落在湄公河三角洲,拥有越南最大的高棉社区之一,当地饮食深受其影响——发酵鱼汤、酥脆的煎饼和别处难寻的酥皮点心,令人回味无穷。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
A vibrant noodle soup with herbs and vegetables, perfect for a flavorful meal.
↑ A vibrant noodle soup with herbs and vegetables, perfect for a flavorful meal.Photo by FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels
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#regional specialty#food#khmer#mekong delta#street food#noodles#fermented fish#pastry
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    Che Ba Mau After Dark: Where to Find Saigon's Best Late-Night Three-Color Dessert

    Soc Trang 位于 Saigon 以南约 230 公里处,大多数游客会直接略过这里。这绝对是个遗憾,尤其是对于吃货来说。该省拥有越南(Vietnam)最密集的高棉克隆(Khmer Krom)社区,当地饮食巧妙地融合了高棉和京族传统,创造出南部地区独一无二的美味。

    Bun Nuoc Leo —— 定义该省的招牌面食

    “Bun nuoc leo”是 Soc Trang 最具代表性的美食。其汤底以发酵鱼酱(mam ca sac)为核心,这是一种由高棉厨师沿用数世纪、气味浓郁且鲜味深厚的调料。加入猪骨和香茅熬制后,其口感介于 bun bo hue 的浓郁与 hu tieu 的清甜之间,却又自成一派。面条选用粗圆的米粉,碗中铺上猪肉片、虾仁,有时还会加入 cha lua(越南扎肉),并配上一盘新鲜香草、豆芽和切片的香蕉花。

    这种味道非常有个性。发酵鱼酱赋予了汤底一种清澈猪骨汤所没有的独特深邃感——如果你从小吃 pho 长大,这碗面会彻底刷新你对越南汤面的认知。当地人多将其作为早餐,街头摊位每碗售价约 30,000–45,000 VND。

    品尝推荐:Mau Than 街附近的早市区域,以及 Soc Trang 中央市场附近的摊位群。寻找那些手写招牌和用大陶罐盛汤的摊主——这通常就是美味的信号。

    Bun Goi Da —— 鲜为人知的“兄弟”

    “Bun goi da”在省外很少见,这也正是它值得一寻的原因。它与 bun nuoc leo 共享发酵鱼汤底,但使用更细的米粉,配料组合也不同——通常是猪肉末、虾酱丸和炸豆腐。配菜更偏向生蔬:根据摊位不同,通常会加入空心菜、黄瓜和青芒果丝。

    这道菜比 bun nuoc leo 口感更清爽,但依然层次丰富。它相对难找一些——可以在市场询问,或者寻找同时售卖这两种面食的摊位,很多摊主会将它们放在一起卖。价格约为 25,000–35,000 VND。

    Banh Pia —— 值得带回家的酥皮点心

    Soc Trang 是“banh pia”的发源地,你在当地买到的版本与 Saigon(西贡)超市里真空包装的完全不同。其外皮由猪油制成,经过反复折叠,口感酥脆易碎,工艺上更接近中式的老婆饼。传统馅料是绿豆沙配咸蛋黄,不过榴莲馅在当地也非常受欢迎。

    最正宗的 banh pia 来自距离 Soc Trang 镇约 7 公里的 Vung The 区,那里有几家传承了三四代的家庭作坊。Tan Hue Vien 和 Cong Lap Thanh 是当地人经常提到的两家店。一盒六个装售价约 60,000–80,000 VND,常温下可存放数日,非常适合作为伴手礼。

    如果你是在镇上的市场摊位购买而非专门的饼店,建议当天食用,因为包装一旦打开,外皮很快就会变软。

    Soc Trang Som Rong 宝塔的壮丽航拍,展示了越南 Soc Trang 的高棉建筑风格。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Duy Nguyen

    Banh Canh Bac Lieu —— 值得关注的区域变体

    虽然严格来说这是邻省的美食,但用木薯米粉和发酵虾酱汤底制作的“banh canh”在 Soc Trang 也经常出现,特别是在高棉文化影响深厚的地区。这里的汤底比你在 Da Nang 或更北方吃到的清汤 banh canh 更浓稠、更醇厚。如果你在午间想吃点饱腹的,而 bun nuoc leo 摊位已经收摊,这是一个不错的选择。

    饮品与甜点

    高棉文化也体现在甜点中。“Che bap”(椰浆甜玉米羹)和“banh bo nuong”(蜂窝蛋糕)在 Soc Trang 的宝塔节庆期间非常常见,特别是在 4 月的高棉新年和 11 月的 Ok Om Bok 月亮节期间。这两样东西在主要高棉宝塔附近的街头摊位都有售——Chua Doi(蝙蝠宝塔)和 Chua Dat Set(泥塑宝塔)外都有摊贩。

    至于饮品,冰镇的“ca phe sua da(越南冰咖啡)”随处可见,不过你也可以在市场附近的推车上找到“nuoc thot not”——一种从糖棕树中提取的棕榈糖汁。它带有淡淡的焦糖味,甜度远比听起来要低。售价 10,000 VND。

    一位街头小贩推着车,在阳光明媚的日子里售卖 bánh tiêu 和其他糕点。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Nguyen Huy

    如何在 Soc Trang 镇开启美食之旅

    中央市场(Cho Soc Trang)是街头美食的中心。早市时段(大约早上 6 点到 9 点)是 bun nuoc leo 和 bun goi da 摊位最忙碌的时候。到了上午晚些时候,很多摊位就会卖光。下午时段则以 banh mi(越式法包)推车、新鲜水果和 che(甜汤)为主。

    Soc Trang 镇很小,步行或乘坐 xe om(摩的)即可轻松游览。大部分美食都集中在中央市场半径 1.5 公里范围内。如果你是从 Can Tho(芹苴)(向北约 60 公里)出发的一日游,请尽早出发——你最好在早上 7:30 前就开始享用美食。

    实用小贴士

    Soc Trang 很少出现在旅行团的行程中,因此住宿条件较为基础——经济型旅馆每晚约 200,000–350,000 VND。大多数游客是将其作为从 Can Tho 出发的一日游目的地,或者是前往 Bac Lieu 和 Ca Mau 途中的一站。这里的食物本身就值得停留,而高棉宝塔则增添了文化底蕴,这是大多数湄公河三角洲(Mekong Delta)路线完全忽略的部分。