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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · da-lat

Da Lat Nem Nuong:最佳摊位、隐藏小店与避坑指南

Da Lat的炭烤猪肉卷比Nha Trang的版本口感更甜、烟熏味更浓——这里为您推荐值得一试的美味去处,以及应当绕道而行的店铺。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
A vibrant assortment of Asian cuisine, showcasing soups, noodles, and spring rolls, garnished with fresh herbs.
↑ A vibrant assortment of Asian cuisine, showcasing soups, noodles, and spring rolls, garnished with fresh herbs.Photo by Adam on Pexels
Tags
#nem nuong da lat#da lat#best of#food#street food#grilled pork#rice paper rolls
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    Da Lat 有许多令人称道之处——宜人的气候、丰富的农产品、香醇的咖啡——但这座城市版本的“nem nuong”(炭烤猪肉卷)或许是其最被低估的美食名片。这道菜由炭烤猪肉卷、米纸、新鲜香草、青香蕉片和浓郁微甜的蘸酱组成,看似简单,实则极度考验制作功底。

    Da Lat Nem Nuong 的独特之处

    如果您在 Nha Trang 吃过 nem nuong,请先放下既定印象。Nha Trang 的风格偏咸鲜,带有浓郁蒜香,蘸酱较稀。Da Lat 的版本则在猪肉腌制中加入了更多糖,有时还会带有一丝蜂蜜的甜味;其蘸酱(通常以花生和猪肝为基底)也更加浓稠醇厚。高地凉爽的气候使得木炭燃烧得更慢、更纯净,这也赋予了肉类独特的烟熏风味。肉卷通常在餐桌旁现包:撕下一张 banh trang(干米纸),在温水中稍作浸润,铺上烤猪肉、新鲜香草、黄瓜片、青香蕉,如果正值产季,还会加上杨桃。卷好,蘸酱,即刻享用。

    推荐去处

    Nem Nuong Thanh Huong

    3 Hoang Dieu, Ward 5 这是大多数 Da Lat 当地人首先会向您推荐的名字,名副其实。Thanh Huong 在这间狭窄的店面里已经经营了超过 20 年。猪肉均为店内现绞,手工塑形成短圆柱状穿在竹签上,并使用椰壳炭而非普通木炭烧烤——椰壳炭火力更旺,能烤出更纯净的焦香,且不会有苦味。一份全套(nem、米纸、香草、蘸酱)价格约为每人 45,000–55,000 VND。每日营业时间为上午 9 点至晚上 8 点。若想吃到刚出炉的最鲜美口感,请在上午 10 点至中午之间前往。

    Quan Nem Nuong Ba Hoa

    11 Phan Dinh Phung, Ward 2 Ba Hoa 稍微偏离了主要的游客路线,是一家由家庭经营的小店,塑料桌椅一直摆到了人行道上。这里的蘸酱颜色明显更深,风味也更浓郁——配方中猪肝比例更高——这种口味因人而异。香草盘给得非常大方,且总是包含新鲜的紫苏叶,这是大多数店铺早已悄悄省去的配菜。价格为每人 40,000–50,000 VND。营业时间为上午 10 点至晚上 7 点;周二休息。

    Co Huong Nem Nuong

    68 Tang Bat Ho, Ward 10 这是一家较新的店,大概开了五年左右,但他们显然做足了功课。Co Huong 对猪肉的绞制稍显粗糙,这使得 nem 的口感更好——咬劲十足,不像某些竞争对手那样像肉泥。即使以 Da Lat 的标准来看,这里的蘸酱也偏甜,所以如果您更喜欢平衡的口感而非纯粹的甜味,建议要求将酱料分开盛放,并适量蘸取。这里适合团体用餐,空间较大,即使接待八人桌也不会出现服务混乱的情况。每人约 50,000–60,000 VND。每日营业时间为上午 8 点至晚上 9 点。

    Nem Nuong Duc Thanh (夜市摊位)

    Nguyen Thi Minh Khai 夜市,东入口附近摊位 如果您住在 Da Lat 夜市附近,想吃 nem nuong 又不想坐下来正儿八经吃一顿,这个摊位是不错的选择。配置很简单——一辆推车、一个烤炉和一张折叠小桌,但 nem 每天晚上现做,且炭火总是在下午 5:30 前点燃。全套卷饼价格约为 35,000–45,000 VND。虽然不是城里最精致的版本,但位置便利,且营业时间(下午 5 点至晚上 11 点)弥补了实体店打烊后的空档。

    Nem Nuong Xuan Huong (湖畔排档)

    Nguyen Thai Hoc,面向 Xuan Huong 湖 沿着这一带的一排小摊位极力向路过的游客推销。食物勉强可入口,但价格虚高,每套 70,000–90,000 VND;香草通常蔫头耷脑,米纸也经常放置太久。湖景是真的,但 nem 的品质显然不是他们的优先考量。记住这个名字,主要是为了让您避开它。

    一张正在烧烤的越南 Bánh Tráng Nướng 特写,食材新鲜,色泽诱人。

    图片来源:Quyn Phạm,来自 Pexels

    避坑指南

    在 Truong Cong Dinh 街上有一家店(不值得点名),挂着写有英文、韩文和中文的塑封招牌,承诺提供“正宗 Da Lat nem nuong”。那里的猪肉是提前批量烤好的,放在保温灯下。蘸酱是从商业瓶子里倒出来的,瓶身背后的食品服务标签清晰可见。价格为每套 85,000 VND。避开它。这家店专门针对那些不会回来投诉的一日游游客。

    一位老妇人在越南 Đà Lạt 夜市烹饪传统越南菜。

    图片来源:LUC PH@M,来自 Pexels

    如何点餐与享用

    Da Lat 的大多数 nem nuong 店都按套餐供应——您按人数(theo nguoi)点餐,厨房会将所有配菜一次性端上。不要害羞,可以要求额外添加香草(rau them)或蘸酱(them nuoc cham)。如果米纸端上来时是干硬的,而不是已经泡软的,请索要一碗温水——有些店会自动提供,有些则不会。吃得要快。米纸卷在包好几分钟后就会变软塌陷,口感大打折扣。

    实用贴士

    大多数摊位在上午 11 点至下午 1 点以及下午 5 点至晚上 7 点之间最繁忙;避开这些时段前往,意味着能吃到刚烤好的批次,且排队时间更短。在当地小店用餐,预算每人 40,000–60,000 VND,如果在旅游核心区则会更贵。此处列出的几乎所有店铺均只收现金。