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Dinh 1 Da Lat:总督府游览指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · south · da-lat

Dinh 1 Da Lat:总督府游览指南

Dinh 1 是 Da Lat 最容易被忽视的法国殖民时期宫殿——这座宁静的山顶庄园里有复古家具、老地图,而且几乎没有拥挤的游客。以下是参观前需要了解的信息。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 17, 20266 min read
Capture of The Mansion, a historical landmark in Baguio City, Philippines.
↑ Capture of The Mansion, a historical landmark in Baguio City, Philippines.Photo by Kim Villanueva on Pexels
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#dinh 1 da lat#lam dong#south#destinations#da lat#french colonial architecture#art deco#vietnamese highlands
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    Dinh 1 坐落在 Da Lat 市中心东南约 4 km 处的一座长满松树的山丘上。大多数游客在前往更著名的 Bao Dai 夏宫(Dinh 3)时都会与它擦肩而过。这绝对是个遗憾。在 Da Lat 的三座总统别墅中,Dinh 1 是最宁静、保存最完好的一座,它能让你更真切地感受到殖民时期高地生活的真实面貌。

    它的历史与由来

    Dinh 1 建于 1937 年至 1940 年间,最初是法属印度支那总督到 Da Lat (달랏 / 大叻 / ダラット) 避暑时的官邸。建筑师 Paul Veysseyre 采用了适应高地气候的装饰艺术(Art Deco)风格来设计这座别墅——高高的天花板、能捕捉穿堂风的大窗户,以及俯瞰周围松林的宽阔露台。

    1954 年后,这座宫殿成为 Ngo Dinh Nhu 的办公住所,后来又被用于各种行政用途。如今,它作为一座博物馆对外开放。其内部很大程度上保持了原貌:原装的镶木地板、复古家具、瓷器、墙上的殖民时期印度支那地图,还有几个房间完全按照 20 世纪 30 年代末的样貌布置。它不是那种轰动一时的大型博物馆,而是一栋通过房间娓娓道来历史故事的老房子。

    为什么值得一游

    Dinh 1 吸引着特定的游客群体。如果你对建筑、殖民历史感兴趣,或者只是想远离 Da Lat 日益喧嚣的市中心,享受一小时的宁静,这里绝对值得你绕道前来。单是这里的庭院——参天的松树、修剪整齐的树篱、碎石小路——就让人感觉仿佛置身于另一个城市,完全隔绝了市区的施工噪音。

    建筑本身非常漂亮。在越南高地融入装饰艺术风格是一种奇妙的组合,而 Veysseyre 成功地做到了这一点。建筑的比例优雅而不张扬。与经常接待旅游大巴、感觉更像主题公园景点的 Dinh 3 相比,Dinh 1 足够安静,你甚至可以独自承包整个房间。

    最佳游览时间

    Da Lat 全年气候温和,但游览 Dinh 1 的最佳时间是 11 月至次年 3 月——此时正值旱季,气温较为凉爽(15-22°C),花园也呈现出最美的状态。早晨是理想的时段;你可以欣赏到阳光穿过朝东窗户的景象,还能避开雨季(5 月至 10 月)偶尔在下午袭来的浓雾。

    工作日的早晨比周末要安静得多。如果你在周六来访,可能会遇到国内旅行团,尤其是在 Tet 等节假日期间。

    如何前往

    从 Da Lat 市中心(Da Lat 市场附近)出发,沿着 Tran Hung Dao 街向东南方向行驶约 4 km,然后转入 Tran Quang Dieu 街即可到达 Dinh 1。

    • 摩托车或踏板车:10-15 分钟。大门处的停车费约为 5,000 VND。
    • Grab/出租车:从市中心出发单程约 25,000-40,000 VND。
    • 步行:如果你喜欢爬坡,这也是个选择——从市场区域出发,上坡大约需要 45 分钟。

    如果你从 Saigon 前往 Da Lat,最常见的路线是从 Ben Thanh 地区乘坐巴士(约 200,000-280,000 VND,车程 7-8 小时),或者乘飞机前往位于城市以南 30 km 处的 Lien Khuong 机场(从机场打车到市区的费用约为 200,000-250,000 VND)。

    Da Lat 的 Chua Linh Phuoc 寺庙错综复杂的外部结构,展示了独特的建筑设计。

    图片由 Cá Bảo 发布于 Pexels

    游玩亮点

    漫步室内房间

    不妨花些时间慢慢参观一楼的接待室和楼上的私人起居室。餐厅里仍然摆放着原装的八人餐桌。留意一下那些古老的印度支那地图——它们将 Da Lat 标记为一个微小的避暑山庄圆点,让你对整个地方的历史地位有更直观的认识。门票为每人 40,000 VND。

    探索花园

    庄园占地数公顷,是一片经过精心设计的松林景观。这里有一个玫瑰园(景色好坏取决于季节),还有一圈环绕庄园的碎石步道。后露台拥有 Da Lat 最好的视野之一——起伏的山丘、茂密的松树冠,几乎看不到钢筋水泥的痕迹。带本书来这里坐坐吧。

    结合 Dinh 3 和 Dinh 2 一同游览

    Dinh 3(Bao Dai 夏宫)距离这里约 2 km,值得一去并作个比较——它更宏伟,但也更商业化。Dinh 2 离市中心更近,规模较小。骑摩托车花一个上午的时间游览这三座宫殿非常轻松,还能让你全面了解 Da Lat 的殖民时期建筑。

    拍摄装饰艺术细节

    如果你喜欢建筑摄影,Dinh 1 的楼梯、窗框和铁艺是越南高地保存最完好的 20 世纪 30 年代装饰艺术范例。早上 7:30 到 9:00 之间的光线非常适合拍摄建筑正面。

    坐下发发呆

    认真的。上层露台的长椅被古老的松树遮蔽,几乎没有任何噪音。在经历了 Da Lat 夜市的感官超载之后,这里是让你重新放松身心的绝佳之地。

    附近美食

    Dinh 1 位于住宅区,门口没有成排的餐厅,但附近有几个不错的选择。

    • 沿着 Tran Hung Dao 往市中心方向走,在一家小店里吃一碗“bun bo Hue”——Da Lat 的这种越南中部汤面出人意料地地道,这是几十年前南迁的家庭带来的手艺。价格大约在 35,000-50,000 VND。
    • Da Lat 以“[banh canh](/posts/banh-canh-vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)-thick-noodle-soup)”而闻名——这是一种粗木薯面条汤,通常配以蟹肉或猪肉。位于 Ngo Quyen 街的 Banh Canh Da Lat 是当地人的最爱,距离 Dinh 1 约 1.5 km。一碗的价格在 40,000-55,000 VND 之间。
    • 饭后如果想喝杯咖啡,市中心 Hoa Binh 剧院周围的街道上到处都是咖啡馆。Da Lat 对“vietnamese coffee”非常讲究——这片高地种植了越南很大一部分的阿拉比卡咖啡豆。

    住宿推荐

    Da Lat 拥有适合各种预算的住宿选择:

    • 经济型:市场区域周围的青年旅舍和基础客栈,150,000-300,000 VND/晚。
    • 中档型:Xuan Huong 湖南面山丘上的精品酒店,500,000-1,200,000 VND/晚。许多酒店都享有松林景观。
    • 高档型:郊区(靠近 Tuyen Lam 湖方向)几家经营良好的度假村,1,500,000-3,500,000 VND/晚。

    如果你想方便步行,请住在市中心。如果你想要安静,请住在 Tuyen Lam 附近。

    阳光透过越南 Nha Trang 一个宁静公园里茂密的树木倾泻而下。

    图片由 Tong Quan 发布于 Pexels

    当地人的实用建议

    • 带件薄外套。即使在旱季,Da Lat 的早晨气温也可能降至 18°C 以下,而且 Dinh 1 绿树成荫的庭院感觉比市中心更凉爽。
    • 售票处在下午 4:30 关闭。最后入场时间约为下午 4:00。千万别去晚了。
    • 里面没有咖啡馆或礼品店。请自备饮用水。
    • 如果你在公共假日(尤其是 Tet 或 4 月 30 日长周末)来访,宫殿庭院里会挤满穿着“ao dai (아오자이 / 奥黛 / アオザイ)”拍照的国内游客。建议安排在清晨游览,或者避开这些日期。

    常见避坑指南

    • 只去 Dinh 3 而跳过 Dinh 1。 Dinh 3 固然不错,但 Dinh 1 的建筑更美,而且游客少得多。建议两个都去。
    • 完全依赖步行。 通往 Dinh 1 的山路比 Google 地图上看起来要陡峭得多。建议骑车或打 Grab。
    • 在下午起雾时游览。 雨季(6 月至 9 月)的下午可能会有浓雾,不仅破坏了视野,还会让花园显得阴沉。全年来看,早晨游览都更为稳妥。
    • 没有预留足够的时间。 大多数人只待 20 分钟就离开了。请至少留出 45 分钟到一个小时——这些房间值得细细品味,庭院也值得完整地逛上一圈。

    实用须知

    Dinh 1 是一个低调却值得关注的景点。它不会打乱你的行程,却能完美填补一个安静的小时,并向你展示 Da Lat 花园和缆车无法触及的那段历史。你可以将它与其他两座宫殿结合起来,作为早晨的游览路线,然后一路品尝着美食返回市中心。