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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hanoi

河内 Hang Bong 街:在丝绸店之间寻觅美食

Hang Bong 以丝绸和布料闻名,但真正值得你走完全程的原因其实是美食——在成卷的丝绸之间,藏着一碗碗 Pho、越南卷粉和糯米饭。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
A mother and child descending stairs in a dimly lit cave, surrounded by stalactites.
↑ A mother and child descending stairs in a dimly lit cave, surrounded by stalactites.Photo by Atlantic Ambience on Pexels
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#markets#street food#food#hanoi#old quarter#breakfast#lunch#silk street
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Hang Bong 位于河内老城区的南缘,名义上是一条丝绸与布料街,但任何住在附近的居民都知道,这里也是一条物美价廉的可靠美食街。这里的布料店货真价实——你可以在 24 小时内定制一件衬衫——但美食也同样地道。两者以老城区特有的方式共存:商业活动和午餐共享着同一条 3 米宽的人行道。

    这条街的真实样貌

    Hang Bong 全长约 450 米,北起与 Hang Gai 的交汇处,向南延伸至 Hang Thiec 以及 Hoan Kiem 区的边缘。北段布料店较多;南段则逐渐变得轻松,散布着小型咖啡馆、家庭午餐店,以及一些只在早上 6 点到 9 点间出现、随后便消失的流动摊位。如果你从 Hoan Kiem 湖出发,沿 Hang Trong 步行十分钟即可到达。

    人行道在某些地方很窄,摩托车可以随意通行,所以在这里吃饭意味着要“坐得低”——坐在塑料小凳上,面前摆着塑料桌,膝盖几乎顶到下巴,面前放着一碗热食,头顶上方还挂着布料样品。

    晨间:店铺开门前的 Pho 与 Banh Cuon

    在 Hang Bong 觅食的最佳时机是清晨。到了早上 7 点,就有两三家值得驻足的早餐店了。

    寻找靠近 Hang Gai 一侧的“banh cuon”摊位——那是一位大姐经营的摊位,配有一个蒸锅、一块绷在圆桶上的湿布,以及她多年练就的娴熟节奏。一份配有猪肉末和木耳的蒸米卷,撒上炸葱酥,蘸着 nuoc cham 鱼露汁,价格约为 30,000–35,000 VND。这不适合坐下来慢用;你通常得把盘子放在凳子上快速吃完。

    至于“pho”,这条街上专门卖 Pho 的店并不多,但平行的小巷——如 Hang Gai、Hang Non,或者稍微绕道去 Ly Quoc Su——可以弥补这一点。话虽如此,如果你想留在 Hang Bong,一些午餐店开门较早,会用现有的高汤为你煮一碗 Pho:通常是清淡的北越风味牛肉河粉,不加多余修饰,价格约 50,000 VND。

    “Ca phe sua da”——冰奶咖啡——出现在街中段的几家小型咖啡馆里。座位在室内,勉强有空调,这在 7 月份的早上 8 点简直是一种奢侈。

    午间:午餐人群与 Com Binh Dan

    Hang Bong 没有哪一家特别出名的午餐餐厅。它拥有的是“com binh dan”——即日常的家常菜快餐店——它们几乎完全服务于布料店的员工、外卖小哥和那些根本不在乎游客的当地人。这些店通常在玻璃柜台后陈列着五到八种菜肴:红烧五花肉、肉末蒸蛋、炒空心菜、砂锅焦糖鱼。你指一指,店员盛好,一份配米饭的饱餐只需 40,000–60,000 VND。

    这是河内(Hanoi)最擅长的餐饮方式,也是大多数在老城区一日游的游客完全错过的体验,因为他们通常被指引去两三条街外那些名气很大的“bun cha”店。那些店固然不错,但 Hang Bong 的 com binh dan 价格只有前者的一半,味道却同样纯正。

    中午时分,一位大姐有时会在街道中段摆摊卖“goi cuon”——新鲜春卷,里面紧紧包裹着猪肉、虾仁、米粉和香草,配上浓郁的花生海鲜酱。三卷 25,000 VND。她不是每天都出摊,这也是老城区的逻辑:最好的东西往往是“不可预见”的。

    一位街头小贩在繁忙的夜市烹饪并制作越南 Banh Mi。

    图片来源:Pragyan Bezbaruah,来自 Pexels

    午后:小吃与冷饮

    午餐后,食物的选择转向小吃和饮料。一些店铺售卖“che”——杯装的甜豆和果冻甜点——在南端的路口通常至少会停着一辆 xe kem(冰淇淋车)。一个椰子或榴莲口味的冰淇淋球售价 10,000–15,000 VND。

    如果你想坐下来思考人生,Hang Bong 的一些布料店多年来一直在后屋悄悄经营着咖啡馆——你可以挑选丝绸,然后在一块奥黛(ao dai)布帘后的桌子上喝一杯“蛋咖啡”。这是一种奇妙的组合,而且效果出奇地好。

    避坑指南

    避开 Hang Bong 上那两三家挂着塑料封皮英文菜单、墙上贴满菜品照片的餐厅。并不是因为它们不好,而是因为它们收取的是 Hoan Kiem 的游客价——一碗平平无奇的 Pho 竟然要 120,000–180,000 VND。性价比更高的一定是那些没有英文招牌、菜单手写,且需要你通过指点来沟通的小店。

    一位身穿白裙的女性坐在纺织品市场展示的鲜艳布料旁。

    图片来源:Hoàng Phương Nguyễn,来自 Pexels

    交通与出行

    从老城区的大多数酒店步行至 Hang Bong 不到十分钟。大多数人知道的最邻近地标是 Hoan Kiem 湖——从湖的西北角出来,沿 Hang Trong 向上走,它会在 Hang Gai 路口汇入 Hang Bong。无需出租车;这条街很短,五分钟就能从头走到尾,再花五分钟就能走回来。

    即使你不买东西,这些布料店也值得一看。有些店有不错的纯手工刺绣品和按米计价的丝绸,价格可以商量。如果你已经在 Dong Xuan 市场和周边小巷逛了一圈,这条街是一个合理的顺路停靠点。

    实用贴士

    Hang Bong 的美食几乎完全是“早午餐”模式——下午 3 点左右,大多数街头摊贩就收摊了。想获得最丰富的早餐选择,请在早上 9 点前赶到;或者在中午时分过来,那时 com binh dan 的菜品最为新鲜。所有摊位仅收现金;准备一些 10,000 VND 的小面额纸币会很有用。