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Ninh Binh的Ho Dong Chuong:旅行者指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · north · ninh-binh

Ninh Binh的Ho Dong Chuong:旅行者指南

Ho Dong Chuong是Ninh Binh市南部的一个淡水湖,大多数旅行者都会完全错过它。以下是您出发前需要了解的信息。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 21, 20266 min read
Peaceful reflection of limestone mountains in Ninh Bình, Vietnam's tranquil waters.
↑ Peaceful reflection of limestone mountains in Ninh Bình, Vietnam's tranquil waters.Photo by Karolina on Pexels
Tags
#ho dong chuong#ninh binh#north#destinations#lakes#off the beaten path#cycling
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    景点概况

    Ho Dong Chuong是一个大型天然淡水湖,位于Ninh Binh(닌빈 / 宁平 / ニンビン)市南部的低地,四周环绕着石灰岩喀斯特地貌和稻田。随着2025年省级行政区划合并,Ha Nam和Nam Dinh并入大Ninh Binh省,该湖现在位于扩大后的省界更中心的位置——但从地理上看,一切都没有改变。它依然是那片宁静的水域,大约300公顷的平静湖面被渔村和散落的佛塔环绕。

    几个世纪以来,这个湖泊一直是当地社区的水库和渔场。与附近游客众多的Tam Coc或Trang An景区不同,Ho Dong Chuong几乎没有国际游客。这也是它之所以迷人的部分原因——这里没有售票亭,没有高音喇叭,也没有排队等候的船只。

    推荐理由

    人们来这里是为了寻找宁静。如果您在Tam Coc的游船中穿梭了一整天,或者在Bai Dinh躲避旅行团,那么Ho Dong Chuong就是一剂解药。这里的喀斯特风光与Ninh Binh其他地方的特色相似——参差不齐的石灰岩山峰从平静的水面拔地而起——但周围没有那些商业化的基础设施。

    观鸟者会在雨季到来,那时白鹭和苍鹭会聚集在沼泽边缘。摄影师会在黎明时分出现,捕捉湖面上弥漫的晨雾。骑行者在连接Ninh Binh市和南部地区的路线中会途经此地。这不是一个需要耗费一整天的目的地——它更像是一次半日的绕道之旅,却能用最纯粹的真实来回报您。

    最佳游玩时间

    最佳游玩时间是10月到12月。此时雨季已经结束,湖水丰盈,周围的稻子也已收割(留下金黄色的麦茬地),早晨的气温凉爽,非常适合骑行。气温徘徊在22-26°C左右。

    1月和2月也可以,尽管天气会变得灰暗且经常下毛毛雨——如果您不介意衣服被打湿,这种天气其实很有氛围感。如果您不喜欢炎热和午后的倾盆大雨,请避开6月到8月;湖区完全没有遮阳设施。

    无论哪个季节,清晨(早上7点前)都是最佳时段。渔船已经出航,光线柔和,您可以独享整条道路。

    交通指南

    Ho Dong Chuong位于Ninh Binh市中心以南约15 km处,骑摩托车或开车大约需要25-30分钟。

    • 从Ninh Binh市**[租摩托车](/posts/renting-motorbike-vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)-legal-insurance)**:每天120,000-150,000 VND。沿DT477向南驶向Yen Mo区,然后顺着当地的路标朝湖的方向行驶。Google Maps上的定位是准确的。
    • Grab打车:从Ninh Binh车站区域出发,单程约80,000-120,000 VND。在这里叫返程的Grab不太靠谱——最好安排司机等待或留下司机的电话号码。
    • 自行车:如果您住在Ninh Binh市并且喜欢平地骑行,这是可行的。道路铺有柏油且大部分平坦,以轻松的节奏骑行大约需要45分钟。

    从Hanoi出发,可以乘坐火车或巴士前往Ninh Binh(2-2.5小时,从Giap Bat车站乘坐巴士费用为80,000-120,000 VND),然后再转乘当地交通工具。

    日出时分带着渔网的两名越南渔民,越南Thua Thien Hue。

    图片由Quang Nguyen Vinh拍摄,来自Pexels

    游玩体验

    向当地家庭租一艘小船

    东岸的几户人家出租铝船或木船,价格为每小时100,000-150,000 VND。这里没有正式的码头——您会看到船只停靠在村庄通道附近的岸边。指一艘船,谈好价格,您就可以下水了。船夫负责划船,您只需坐着欣赏。

    环湖骑行

    一条崎岖的道路环绕着湖泊的大部分区域,穿过三四个小村庄。整个环线大约12 km。路面在水泥村道和压实的泥土路之间交替——除了公路赛车外,任何自行车都可以轻松应对。您会路过养鱼场、菜地和几座小寺庙。

    参观湖畔佛塔

    北岸坐落着两座朴素的佛塔,均可追溯到黎朝(Le dynasty)时期。它们是社区寺庙,而不是旅游景点——请脱鞋,压低声音,不要在上方放飞无人机。这里的建筑是典型的北部三角洲风格:低矮的木梁、布满青苔的庭院和缭绕的香烟。

    黎明时分观看渔网捕鱼

    当地渔民使用由手摇竹架操作的大型方形扳网(“vó bè”)。看着渔网在喀斯特地貌的背景下起伏的节奏和剪影,这是那种完全不需要滤镜的绝美瞬间。

    拍摄喀斯特倒影

    早上6:30前湖面最为平静。在无风的条件下,西侧边缘的石灰岩地貌几乎能完美地倒映在水中。如果您使用专业相机拍摄,请带上偏振镜。

    附近餐饮

    湖区本身没有餐厅——只有几户人家,如果您礼貌地询问,他们可能会为您提供米饭和他们那天早上煮的任何食物。

    返回Ninh Binh市的路上,可以在DT477沿线的小饭馆寻找“[com tam](/posts/com-tam-saigon (사이공 / 西贡 / サイゴン)-broken-rice)”(碎米饭)——碎米饭配烤猪肉,价格为35,000-45,000 VND。如果想品尝更具地方特色的美食,可以去距离湖泊约5 km的Yen Mo镇寻找“banh cuon”(越南肠粉)。这里的肠粉比Hanoi的更薄,搭配的蘸酱口味偏甜。

    如果您打算回Ninh Binh市吃晚餐,Trang An路沿线的羊肉餐厅是当地的特色——烤羊肉、羊肉火锅、香茅炒羊肉。预算为每人150,000-200,000 VND(含啤酒)。

    住宿推荐

    湖区本身没有住宿。您的选择有:

    • Ninh Binh市:经济型青年旅舍150,000 VND/晚起;中档酒店400,000-700,000 VND;一些精品住宿约1,200,000 VND。
    • Tam Coc区域(距离湖泊近几公里):民宿250,000 VND起;较好的河畔小屋600,000-1,500,000 VND。住在这里能让您更方便地在清晨游览湖泊。

    越南Ninh Bình心形稻田的无人机航拍图,展示了乡村景观。

    图片由Menderes Kahraman拍摄,来自Pexels

    当地人的实用建议

    • 自带水和零食。湖泊附近没有便利店。
    • 从3月起,防晒霜和帽子是必不可少的。环湖路段完全暴露在阳光下。
    • 如果您想坐船,请在早上8点前前往——许多渔民在早晨捕捞后就会回家,之后便不再载客。
    • 环湖路的泥土路段在雨后会变得泥泞。人字拖是个糟糕的选择;包趾鞋或带有抓地力的凉鞋会更好。
    • 手机信号不错(Viettel、Mobifone都能用)。但不要指望在村庄里用移动数据导航——请提前下载好离线地图。

    避坑指南

    • 中午前往:上午11点到下午3点,湖区在直射的阳光下炙烤。这里没有树荫,没有咖啡馆,无处躲避。只建议早晨前往。
    • 期待Tam Coc级别的风景:这里的喀斯特地貌没有那么壮观,也不那么集中。来这里是为了感受氛围,而不是为了拍Instagram网红照。
    • 没有确认返程交通:如果您是打Grab来的,您可能需要等待30分钟以上才能叫到返程车。请提前安排好,或者自己租车。
    • 未经允许放飞无人机:这里的村庄很小且相对保守。在头顶放飞任何东西之前请先询问。有些家庭会拒绝——请尊重他们。

    实用信息总结

    Ho Dong Chuong最适合作为更丰富的Ninh Binh行程中的半日游补充——可以在同一天搭配Tam Coc或Hoa Lu一起游玩。包括交通在内,总共预算3-4小时。免门票,无需购票,没有任何烦恼。