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单吃Banh beo吃不饱——来看看Hue当地人是如何围绕这些小巧的蒸米糕,搭配出地道的一餐,文中还包含推荐店铺及价格。

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一份“banh beo”——那些拇指大小、浅碟盛装的蒸米糕,上面撒着虾干、酥脆的猪油渣,再淋上一层葱油——上桌时通常是十到十五个一叠。这看起来更像是一种伪装成正餐的零食。如果只吃这个,四十分钟后你就会饿。但如果你像Hue当地人那样,将其融入到一系列小盘菜中,你就能享受到越南最棒的午餐之一。
这种米糕是用稀米浆倒入小瓷碟中蒸制而成的,蒸到刚刚凝固即可——口感软糯而不黏糊,边缘带有轻微的嚼劲。配料很克制:一小撮虾松或完整的虾干,几片“tom chien”(根据店铺不同,可能是炸猪皮或虾饼),再淋上一勺nuoc cham(鱼露蘸水)。你需要用小勺子把米糕从碟子里刮下来,一口或两口吃掉。
它的味道很细腻,对于一个以口味浓郁著称的城市来说,这显得有些低调。鱼露在其中起到了画龙点睛的作用,这正是banh beo需要搭配其他菜肴的原因。
Hue(顺化)饮食的核心在于叠加。一顿饭不是吃一道菜,而是由四五道相互补充的小菜组成。Banh beo很自然地融入了这种结构。大多数供应banh beo的店里也有“banh nam”(用香蕉叶包裹的扁平蒸米糕,内馅为虾末)和“banh loc”(半透明的木薯粉饺,有露馅或包裹两种,内馅为整虾和猪肉)。这三者是经典的“铁三角”,建议全部点上。
Banh loc是三者中口感最丰富的——木薯粉皮有嚼劲,内馅更扎实。Banh nam则是最软糯的,虾味较淡,带着淡淡的香蕉叶清香。相比之下,banh beo显得最为轻盈细腻。这种对比正是其精髓所在。

图片来源:Pexels 上的 Tuan Vy
如果店里有“Banh ram it”,一定要尝尝。这是一种混合体:底部是酥脆的炸米饼,上面覆盖着柔软的banh beo层,让你一口就能同时尝到酥脆与软糯。并非每家店都有,但如果碰上了,它绝对是餐桌上口感对比最强烈的点缀。
如果店里没有Banh ram it,点一小盘“nem lui”——烤香茅猪肉串——增加一些焦香味和油脂感,可以很好地平衡蒸菜的清淡。Nguyen Binh Khiem街上的一些banh beo店会把nem lui作为配菜出售,有些则没有,所以先看看手写的菜单板。
这种午餐就别喝啤酒了。在Hue,标准的搭配是冰镇的“tra o long”(乌龙茶)或热绿茶。两者都能化解鱼露的咸鲜,又不会喧宾夺主。如果你想喝点凉的,当地现榨的“nuoc mia”(甘蔗汁)也很不错,每杯10,000–15,000 VND。
Quan Banh Beo Ba Cu, 11 Nguyen Binh Khiem —— 这是一家狭窄的临街老店,几十年来一直保持着传统做法。这里的banh beo比平均水平稍硬一点,更容易完整地舀起。一叠十五个大约25,000–30,000 VND。菜单上也有banh loc和banh nam。营业时间从早上7点到中午左右;卖完即止,所以不要计划太晚去吃午餐。
Banh Beo Chi Hen, 位于距离皇城西北约4公里的Kim Long社区 —— 环境更安静,更具生活气息。这里的鱼露味道更甜,更接近Hue皇室厨房的风格。两人份的丰盛午餐加饮料大约在80,000–100,000 VND。早上6:30开门。
这两家店都是当地人常去的。没有英文菜单,但点餐很简单:用手指比划你想点的份数即可,店员完全能听懂。

图片来源:Pexels 上的 Hải Nguyễn
对于独自用餐的人来说,一份banh beo(15个)、一份banh loc(通常5–6个)和一个banh nam就足够了——既有饱腹感又不会太撑。如果是两人用餐,可以再加一叠banh beo和一盘banh ram it(如果有的话)。两人总花费在120,000–150,000 VND之间,包含饮料。
这顿饭便宜、快捷,最好在中午之前享用。Hue的“小盘菜”传统通常不包含晚餐——大多数这类店铺在午后就关门了。
准备好零钱;10,000和20,000 VND的纸币非常有用。大多数banh beo店只收现金。Hue市中心的Nguyen Binh Khiem街集中了步行范围内最多的选择——如果你计划在Imperial Citadel度过一个上午,在这里吃午餐是再自然不过的衔接了。