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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · ho-chi-minh-city

Cho Lon Binh Tay市场美食指南:点心、干货与粤式越南风味

位于Saigon Cho Lon区的Binh Tay市场并非游客陷阱,而是一个地道的批发集市——其内部的美食广场及周边街道隐藏着极其出色的美食。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Vibrant scene outside Binh Tay Market in Ho Chi Minh City, capturing lively street activity.
↑ Vibrant scene outside Binh Tay Market in Ho Chi Minh City, capturing lively street activity.Photo by Vietnam Tri Duong Photographer on Pexels
Tags
#markets#street food#food#ho chi minh city#chinatown#dim sum#cho lon#cantonese
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Hue Banh Beo: What to Pair It With for a Full Meal

    Binh Tay市场坐落在Saigon历史悠久的唐人街区Cho Lon中心地带,大多数游客只是匆匆而过。他们拍下黄色殖民风格的外观,扫视一眼堆满干货和药材的批发摊位,然后就离开了。这是一个错误——市场周边的食物是这座城市中保留最完整的粤式越南风味美食之一。

    Binh Tay的真实面貌

    这首先是一个批发市场。一楼主要由批发干海鲜、香料、腌制蔬菜和中药材的商贩占据。这里接待零售游客,但并不以游客为主。这种动态保持了价格的公道,也让市场免于沦为纪念品商店。在市场狭窄的过道里,你经常会看到推着装满八角和虾米麻袋的工人们穿梭而过。

    美食主要集中在三个区域:市场内部上层的美食广场、紧邻建筑的Thap Muoi街和Phan Van Khoe街上的密集摊位,以及深入Cho Lon核心地带的粤式餐厅。

    市场美食广场

    上层美食广场的营业时间大约从早上6点到下午2点,主要服务于楼下的商贩和批发商。桌椅是塑料的,通风一般,菜单通常是用越南语和中文手写的。没有英文翻译,也没有图片。如果你不确定吃什么,指着旁边人吃的点就行。

    这里的“Banh cuon”倾向于粤式口味——米皮更厚,有时是煎过的而非蒸的,馅料是虾米和猪肉,与Hanoi风格的清淡口味不同。一盘价格在25,000–35,000 VND之间。粥(“chao”)是早餐的另一大支柱——质地浓稠,熬制时间长,配料有皮蛋瘦肉、猪杂,或者纯粥配一份“quay”(中式油条)。一碗加料粥的价格约为30,000–40,000 VND。

    如果你在周末早上8点前到达,还能赶上点心类小吃:XO酱蒸肠粉、荷叶糯米鸡,偶尔还有小贩推着车在入口处售卖热腾腾的“banh bao”(包子)。这些东西卖得很快,9点之后就不要指望能买到了。

    胡志明市Binh Tay市场外充满活力的场景,捕捉到了热闹的街头活动。

    图片来源:Pexels上的Vietnam Tri Duong Photographer

    Thap Muoi街的街头摊位

    Binh Tay市场与运河之间的Thap Muoi路段比市场本身更值得花时间探索。这里是固定美食摊位的聚集地,许多摊位由在这里经营了几十年的家庭打理。

    寻找这里的“hu tieu Nam Vang”——这是一种金边风格的汤粉,也是Cho Lon的招牌。它比“pho”更清淡,汤底由猪肉和干鱿鱼熬制,口感更纯净,搭配细米粉,撒上炸红葱头和新鲜香草。你可以选择汤食或“kho”(干拌,配一碗汤蘸着吃)。价格为45,000–60,000 VND。摊位通常在早上6点左右开张,中午左右收摊。

    再往前走,有几个摊位售卖带有鲜明Cho Lon特色的“com tam”——这里的叉烧是中式做法,在大多数Saigon的“com tam”柜台是找不到的。一份碎米饭配叉烧、煎蛋和腌菜的价格为50,000–65,000 VND。

    Cho Lon核心区的粤式餐厅

    如果想坐下来慢慢享用,可以从Binh Tay步行五分钟往西北方向前往Nguyen Trai街和Lao Tu街。这是Cho Lon较古老的核心区,粤式越南餐厅经营在狭窄的店屋里,有些墙上还挂着家族协会的牌匾。

    这些店在周末早晨供应正宗的点心——虾饺、烧卖、萝卜糕、蒸凤爪,以及像“cha gio”(炸春卷)这样用米纸而非小麦皮包裹的越南改良版点心。两人份的点心盛宴价格在200,000–350,000 VND之间,取决于你点的蒸笼数量。

    至于饮品,“ca phe sua da”(越南冰咖啡)随处可见,但Cho Lon还有一些老式咖啡馆,供应“kho qua”茶(苦瓜茶,冰镇)和菊花茶,这些比附近随处可见的越南连锁咖啡店更具街区特色。

    传统中式餐馆内部,食客熙熙攘攘,装饰充满活力。

    图片来源:Pexels上的Jimmy Liao

    交通与时间建议

    Binh Tay市场位于第6郡Thap Muoi街57A号,距离第1郡的Ben Thanh市场约5公里。从第1郡乘坐Grab摩托车费用约为30,000–40,000 VND。批发市场凌晨4点左右开市,但美食摊位在早上6点到11点之间最为热闹。下午过后,许多摊贩就会收摊,上层美食广场也会变得冷清。

    周末早晨点心摊位更多,但人也更拥挤。工作日9点之前感觉更地道,游客较少。

    实用贴士

    请携带现金——200,000–300,000 VND足以让你享受一个充实的美食早晨,包括早餐、小吃和第二杯咖啡。市场的美食广场摊位不支持刷卡或二维码支付。会一点越南语很有用;一些市场边的餐厅员工会说基础的中文,在沟通上有时比英语更管用。