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顺化嘉隆陵:旅行者实用指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · central · hue

顺化嘉隆陵:旅行者实用指南

嘉隆陵是顺化皇陵群中最偏远的一座,也是最值得造访的一座。本文介绍前往方式、游览攻略,以及为何值得专程前往。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 21, 20266 min read
The majestic entrance of Minh Mang Tomb framed by bare trees in Hue, Vietnam.
↑ The majestic entrance of Minh Mang Tomb framed by bare trees in Hue, Vietnam.Photo by Minh Lê on Pexels
Tags
#lang gia long#hue#central#destinations#nguyen dynasty#royal tombs#hue tombs
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    简介

    嘉隆陵是越南阮朝开国皇帝嘉隆帝的陵寝。正是这位皇帝在1802年统一了越南,建立了统一的王朝。陵区位于Hue市中心西南约16公里处,依托低矮丘陵而建,松林环抱,莲池相映。与知名度更高的嗣德陵或启定陵不同,这里没有旅游大巴驶入。大多数时候,陪伴你的只有寥寥几位游客,以及几名用手剪修剪草坪的园丁。

    陵区占地约28公顷,建成于1820年。据说嘉隆帝亲自骑马勘察四周山势,亲定陵址。陵区内同时安葬了皇帝与孝成皇后,两座陵寝分处相邻的山丘之上,由祭祀庭院、石刻文武官像及一座已部分损毁的碑亭相连。岁月与战火的侵蚀使这里略显残破,数处建筑已成废墟——但正是这份沧桑,让它与城区那些修缮一新的皇陵大相径庭。

    为何值得前往

    人们专程来此,正因为它不在Hue的标准皇陵游览线路之内。如果你已经游览过嗣德陵、启定陵和明命陵,嘉隆陵便是顺理成章的下一站——多走这一程,自有回报。园内部分区域草木繁盛,石象背上爬满苔藓,四周是一望无际的稻田,间或点缀着几丛菠萝蜜树。在这里,你感受到的是历史本身的重量,而不是从展示牌上读来的文字。

    摄影爱好者钟情于这里的质感——风化的红土墙、覆满地衣的石像、穿石而出的树根。若你对阮朝建筑有所研究,这里还保存着王朝最早期的建筑风格,早于后来几座皇陵风格成熟之前的样貌。

    最佳游览时间

    Hue的旱季大致从三月延续至八月,四月和五月最为宜人——暑气未至,雨水稀少,光线也适合拍摄那些草木丛生的庭院。

    十月至十二月尽量避开——Hue在这段时间雨量充沛,通往陵区的土路泥泞难行。一月和二月气温较低(18-22°C),大体干燥,同样适合游览,只是连阴天较多。

    越南Hue明命陵的壮观入口,裸枝古树与陵门相映成景。

    摄影:Minh Lê,来源:Pexels

    从Hue如何前往

    陵区位于香江南岸,距市中心约16公里。以下是三种实用的出行方式:

    摩托车

    最常见的选择。在市区租一辆半自动摩托车,费用约120,000-150,000 VND/天,沿河道向南行驶,途经其他几座皇陵。从Hue市中心出发约需40分钟。最后3公里是一条穿越稻田的窄水泥路——过了An Bang村之后,沿"Lang Gia Long"路牌行驶即可。陵区停车免费。

    Grab或xe om

    从Hue市中心叫Grab摩托单程约60,000-80,000 VND,但在陵区附近叫车返程可能较为困难。提前谈好价格的话,雇一辆xe om(摩托出租车)往返并等候45分钟,费用约200,000-250,000 VND。

    游船

    Hue部分民宿和旅行社提供香江游船行程,途经嘉隆陵和明命陵。拼船费用通常为每人250,000-400,000 VND。从水路抵达别有意境——船靠近陵区南门,沿松林小道步行而上。若你有半天时间,这种方式颇为值得。

    游览内容

    漫步祭祀庭院。 中轴线从入口大门延伸至庭院,两侧排列着石刻文武官像、马匹和大象。这些是Hue皇陵群中现存最古老的石像之一——雕工比后期陵墓的石像更为朴拙,却自有一种厚重的气韵。不妨数一数那些官员石像:共十座,左右各五,每座袍服各有细微差异。

    登上皇帝陵冢。 庭院后方有石阶通往山顶,即皇帝的实际安葬之所。陵冢四周围以低墙,古松遮阴,是一处幽静之地,可将整个陵区及周围山景尽收眼底。

    探访皇后陵寝。 孝成皇后的陵冢位于另一座相邻山丘,有小径穿林相连。多数游客忽略了这里,甚至不知道它的存在。步行不过五分钟,却能让你对整个陵区的规模有更完整的认识。

    拍摄碑亭。 安放嘉隆帝神道碑的碑亭顶部已局部敞开——屋顶数十年前受损,至今未完全修复。碑上由明命帝题写的铭文依然清晰可辨。早晨9至10点,晨光正好斜照入亭。

    探索外围园地。 陵区边缘近乎野生——莲池、果树、半掩于植被中的残垣断壁。给自己至少90分钟,不慌不忙地走完整个园区。

    附近用餐

    陵区内没有任何餐饮——无咖啡馆,无小摊。记得自备饮水。

    返回Hue途中,可在Kim Long街沿途停下,来一碗"bun bo Hue"——这是顺化招牌的香辣牛肉粉。位于Vo Thi Sau街附近的Quan Bun Bo Hue O Phuong,一碗约35,000-40,000 VND,味道扎实。若你经由市中心返回,可绕道旧城区的Hang Me街,吃一碗"banh canh"——猪肉蟹肉汤底搭配粗木薯粉条,一碗约30,000 VND。

    越南Hue香江上,Trường Tiền桥在夕阳余晖中倒影如画。

    摄影:Tuấn Vũ,来源:Pexels

    Hue住宿推荐

    游览嘉隆陵以Hue市区为大本营最为便利。Pham Ngu Lao街和Le Loi街一带的经济型民宿,每晚约200,000-400,000 VND。Le Loi街或Nguyen Cong Tru街沿线可眺望江景的中档酒店,每晚约600,000-1,200,000 VND。若想住得舒适些,皇城附近南岸地带有几家精品酒店,Thang Long区域每晚约1,500,000-3,000,000 VND。

    当地人会告诉你的实用贴士

    • 带好现金。 入口没有刷卡购票的设施——门票40,000 VND,只收现金。
    • 穿合适的鞋。 道路由不平整的石块和泥土铺就。旱季穿凉鞋勉强可行,雨后则会后悔。
    • 上午前往。 陵区朝东,早晨光线更适合拍照,四月以后也能避开正午的炎热。
    • 与明命陵合并游览。 两处相距仅约4公里,同路可达,一个上午骑车走完两处,行程紧凑合理。
    • 下载离线地图。 Google Maps对该地点的标注较为准确,但陵区附近手机信号时有时无。出发前务必提前保存路线。

    常见误区

    不要把嘉隆陵当作跑陵一日游行程中随手加塞的景点。它比其他几座皇陵更远,值得在此驻足至少90分钟。走马观花,反而辜负了这一趟。

    不要指望在陵区叫到Grab返程——这一带司机稀少。请提前安排好往返交通,或自行骑车前往。

    也不要因为它不如其他皇陵修缮完好就将其略过。残破,正是它的魅力所在。在这里,你离这些皇陵旅游开发之前的本来面目最近。