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  3. Nuoc Mam Phu Quoc:去哪吃、点什么,以及为什么正宗的鱼露味道不同
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · phu-quoc

Nuoc Mam Phu Quoc:去哪吃、点什么,以及为什么正宗的鱼露味道不同

Phu Quoc岛受地理标志保护的鱼露在木桶中陈酿超过12个月——从工厂车间到家庭餐馆,教你如何正确品味这种调味品。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Serene shoreline with coconut trees under a clear blue sky, perfect for a tropical getaway.
↑ Serene shoreline with coconut trees under a clear blue sky, perfect for a tropical getaway.Photo by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels
Tags
#nuoc mam phu quoc#phu quoc#guide#food#fish sauce#family friendly#street food#local producers
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Phu Quoc生产着许多越南厨师公认的全国最好的鱼露,然而大多数游客离开时,只在机场礼品店买过那些塑封包装的产品。那真是太浪费了。带着饥饿感来吧,参观一家还在运营的工厂,然后坐在岛上一家家庭经营的小店里,那里使用的“nuoc mam” Phu Quoc既是食材,也是调味品,而且——在最好的情况下——它是一顿饭的灵魂所在。

    为什么Phu Quoc鱼露与众不同

    这种鱼露拥有欧盟颁发的原产地名称保护(PDO)认证,是唯一获此殊荣的越南食品。它完全由ca com(一种类似凤尾鱼的小鱼)制成,这些鱼在8月至1月间在岛屿周边海域捕获,然后与海盐一层层铺在圆形的越南硬木桶中。这些木桶并非装饰品,它们至关重要:木材会呼吸,发酵过程得以稳定,经过12到15个月后,从底部水龙头滴出的液体呈现出深琥珀红色,蛋白质含量超过30°N(氮含量,这是衡量越南鱼露质量的标准)。超市里塑料瓶装的产品通常只有15°N,且掺了水和调味剂。这种差别绝非细微。

    从工厂开始

    在吃之前,先去看看木桶。位于Duong Dong镇南北主干道Hung Vuong街上的Khai Hoan Fish Sauce Factory自1900年就开始运营,每天上午提供免费的参观导览。你还没走到50米远就能闻到那股味道:浓烈、咸重,一旦你的鼻子适应了,其实并不难闻。工作人员会解释分层工艺,并让你品尝不同阶段的木桶里的鱼露。无需预约,只需在上午8点到11点之间到达即可。这里很适合带孩子——工厂车间是露天的,木桶顶部也是密封的。

    另一个更小、更安静的选择是位于Duong Dong Nguyen Van Cu街上的Thinh Phat,那里游客较少,带孩子走动更方便。

    一碗美味的越南汤,里面有新鲜的虾和蔬菜,环境充满活力。

    图片来源:Pexels上的Theodore Nguyen

    去哪吃

    Cay Bang Restaurant — Duong Dong

    这是当地人真正互相推荐的地方,而不是推荐给游客的。它位于Tran Hung Dao街的夜市附近,专门经营以当地海鲜为基础的菜肴,仅用nuoc mam和青柠简单调味。点一份goi ca trich——生鲱鱼沙拉,配上薄米饼,以及一小碗未稀释的Phu Quoc鱼露,里面只加了一点青柠汁和辣椒。鱼是当天捕获的,鱼露是从两条街外的一家生产商那里买来的。每人一顿完整的饭大约花费120,000–180,000 VND。这里通常是家庭聚餐的场所;可以放心带孩子来。

    Nha Hang Phu Quoc Fish Sauce — 靠近Khai Hoan工厂

    这家小餐馆附属于一家鱼露合作社,提供固定的品鉴菜单:两种不同氮含量的蘸料,配上烤ca com、蒸米饭和一盘生蔬菜。与其说它是一家餐馆,不如说它是一场教学,每人收费约85,000 VND。店主会说简单的英语,对各种问题都很有耐心。每天仅在上午10点至下午2点营业。

    Com Nieu Thanh Truc — Ham Ninh村

    如果你去了东海岸的Ham Ninh——距离Duong Dong约25公里——Thanh Truc提供陶罐饭(“com nieu”),配上烤虾和以传统cham方式稀释的nuoc mam Phu Quoc:鱼露、青柠、糖、水、大蒜、辣椒,在餐桌上根据口味调整。这里的虾与鱼露的比例完美诠释了为什么好的鱼露能成就或毁掉一道菜。根据点的菜品,每人花费约150,000–250,000 VND。请带现金;这里没有刷卡机。

    用于鱼露发酵的大型陶罐,背景是带有渔船和现代建筑的海岸线。

    图片来源:Pexels上的Quang Nguyen Vinh

    到处都该点什么

    岛上任何一家值得一去的餐馆都会使用当地鱼露。最能体现其风味的菜肴往往是最简单的:goi cuon(新鲜米纸卷),配上一碗nuoc mam pha蘸料;清蒸海鲜,配上nuoc mam和姜末蘸料;以及com tam(碎米饭),旁边配上一小碗纯正的nuoc mam Phu Quoc,而不是混合调味汁。如果餐馆给你拿来一瓶Chin Su,那这就是个信号。要求换成当地的鱼露吧。

    买点带回家

    Khai Hoan和Thinh Phat都直接从工厂销售。一瓶500毫升、40°N的鱼露售价在80,000–120,000 VND之间。无论标签上写什么,都要避免购买廉价的塑料瓶装——玻璃瓶才是储存和运输这种高品质鱼露的方式。航空公司允许在托运行李中携带密封瓶;随身携带超过100毫升会有问题。

    实用提示: Duong Dong是所有这些行程的基地——从镇中心步行即可到达工厂,上述餐馆也都在短途摩的(xe om)或出租车车程内。Phu Quoc在过去十年中发展迅速,但鱼露贸易仍集中在老城区。不要去Long Beach的度假村区域寻找它。