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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hanoi

河内 Pho Cuon:值得寻觅的巷弄美味

将牛肉和香草包裹在新鲜米皮中,搭配蘸水凉食——Pho Cuon 是 Truc Bach 的一项发明,大多数游客往往会与之擦肩而过。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Serene autumn scenery at Hoan Kiem Lake with Turtle Tower and colorful branches.
↑ Serene autumn scenery at Hoan Kiem Lake with Turtle Tower and colorful branches.Photo by tu nguyen on Pexels
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#pho cuon#hanoi#guide#food#street food#truc bach#hidden gems#rice rolls
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    大多数人来到 Hanoi 都是为了那一碗 "pho",却往往错过了它的“扁平卷状”表亲。"Pho cuon" —— 用新鲜米皮包裹炒牛肉和香草,室温下配蘸水食用 —— 诞生于 21 世纪初 Truc Bach 湖周边的街道,此后几乎没有走出过这一带。正是因为这种区域性集中,只要你知道该去哪条巷子,就很容易找到地道的美味。

    你吃到的究竟是什么

    这种米皮与制作 "banh cuon" 的材料相同,蒸得薄薄的并保持柔软。它包裹着一小堆用蒜末快炒的薄牛肉片、几枝 hung(越南紫苏)以及有时会加的生菜。卷的大小大约相当于春卷。你将其浸入 "nuoc cham"(鱼露、青柠、糖和辣椒的经典混合蘸水)中,两三口吃完。这道菜没有汤,也不是传统意义上的面条。它口感清爽,微凉,与汤河粉完全不同。作为零食,每人点六到八卷即可;如果作为正餐,则点十二卷。

    Truc Bach 一条街 —— 从这里开始

    Nguyen Khac Hieu 街沿着 Truc Bach 湖的南缘延伸,是 pho cuon 兴起的地方。在 200 米长的街道上,几家店铺已经经营了二十年。竞争保证了出品的质量。

    Pho Cuon Hung Ben

    25 Nguyen Khac Hieu 是这条街的标杆,也是当地人通常首先推荐你的地方。这里的牛肉始终保持薄嫩,不会过火,米皮则在整个下午分批新鲜制作。价格约为每卷 20,000–25,000 VND,最少点五卷。他们大约 10:00 开门,周末通常在 21:00 前就会售罄。店面很窄,座位延伸到了人行道上。别指望有英文菜单——直接伸出手指比划数量即可。

    巷口的无名小店

    向西走约 40 米,留意一位在巷口低矮木桌上包米皮的女士——没有招牌,只有塑料凳和一张手写的价格牌。这类店铺因为没有名字,通常不会出现在 TripAdvisor 上。这里的卷每份 18,000 VND,nuoc cham 的味道明显更酸爽——青柠味更重,糖分较少——有些人更偏爱这种口味。她通常在 10:30 左右出摊,19:30 前收摊。为了保险起见,建议 18:00 前前往。

    河内老城区夜晚热闹的街头美食场景,摊位充满活力。

    图片来源:Nguyễn Hưng,来自 Pexels

    湖区之外:Doi Can 和 Lieu Giai

    Truc Bach 并不是唯一的选择。这道菜已经蔓延到 Ho Chi Minh 陵墓以西的巷弄网络中,沿着 Doi Can 街一直延伸到 Lieu Giai 的小巷里。

    Quan Pho Cuon 43 Doi Can 是一家正规的堂食店——头顶有风扇、日光灯照明、层压板桌子——当你想要一边吃 pho cuon 一边喝杯冰凉的 "bia hoi" 而不想站在路边时,这里是最佳去处。每卷 22,000 VND,他们供应的 cha gio(炸春卷)也值得作为配菜点一份。09:30 开门,约 21:30 打烊,一周七天基本都营业。

    在 Lieu Giai 本身,大约 60 号街区附近,有几家家庭经营的小店将 pho cuon 作为配菜,与 "bun cha (분짜 / 烤肉米粉 / ブンチャー)" 和米饭类菜肴一同出售。质量参差不齐——有些使用预先做好的米皮——但如果你已经在河内 Temple of Literature 附近,不想折返去 Truc Bach,这也是一个可行的选择。

    越南河内户外展示的传统越南 bò bía 小吃。

    图片来源:Hồng Quang Official,来自 Pexels

    出发前需要知道的几件事

    下午去。 河内大多数 pho cuon 店都是午餐和下午营业。工作日 19:30 才去是在碰运气。Truc Bach 一条街在周末会稍微晚一点,但不要指望太晚。

    米皮干得很快。 如果你要打包,请在 20 分钟内吃完,否则米皮会变硬,口感大打折扣。这是一道适合坐下来现吃的菜。

    留意牛肉质量。 好店和普通店的区别几乎完全在于牛肉的处理方式。牛肉应该经过快速翻炒——刚断生即可,不能发灰且嚼不动。如果锅里的肉看起来已经过火了,那就换一家吧。

    预算每人约 150,000–200,000 VND 就可以吃得很满足——包括十卷、一杯饮料,如果店里有的话,还可以加一份炸葱酥作为小菜。

    实用贴士

    Truc Bach 湖距离 Hoan Kiem 湖西北约 2.5 公里——乘坐 xe om(摩托车出租)只需 10 分钟,如果天气没那么热,步行 30 分钟穿过老城区也是不错的选择。Nguyen Khac Hieu 街步行最方便;在湖边道路上停摩托车也很容易。所列出的店铺均不接受刷卡——请准备现金。