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  3. 北部高地集市巡礼:值得专程前往的少数民族市集
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · ha-giang

北部高地集市巡礼:值得专程前往的少数民族市集

Bac Ha、Dong Van、Coc Ly 和 Meo Vac 都有着自己的节奏——周六或周日的清晨,遵循着山区的作息。以下是每个集市不可错过的美食指南。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Traditional wooden houses in Bac Ha, Vietnam, nestled in scenic mountain surroundings.
↑ Traditional wooden houses in Bac Ha, Vietnam, nestled in scenic mountain surroundings.Photo by Duong Nguyen on Pexels
Tags
#markets#street food#food#ethnic minority#highland#bac ha#dong van#ha giang#northern vietnam
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    越南北部高地的周日集市并非工艺品展销会或旅游观光点,它们是 Hmong、Tay、Dao 和 Giay 等族群的每周补给站,许多人为了赶集,甚至需要步行两小时下山。这里的食物也反映了这一点:管饱、便宜,专为那些还要徒步回家的赶集人准备。

    Bac Ha — 花苗族集市

    Bac Ha 距离 Sapa 东北约 65 公里,主集市在周日举行。如果你想在人群拥挤前、且在好食材售罄前品尝美食,请务必在上午 9 点前到达。

    这里必吃的是“thang co”,这是一种高地马肉和内脏炖菜,几代以来一直是 Hmong 集市的主食。它盛在木火上的大黑锅里,舀入深碗中,配上一把香草。其气味浓烈,口感丰富、独特且鲜美异常。一碗的价格约为 30,000–40,000 VND。如果摊主提供,可以点上一小杯“ruou can”(通过竹管从公共大缸中吸出的米酒)——在 Bac Ha,这通常是标配。

    在带顶棚的食品区,你还可以找到现做的“banh cuon”,比 Hanoi 的版本更薄、更朴素,配的是清汤而不是蘸酱。此外还有烤玉米、蒸红薯,以及兜售用香蕉叶包裹的自制“nem chua”的摊贩。集市外缘用木炭烤制的猪肉串——没有具体名字,就是简单的烤肉串——值得买上两三串尝尝。

    花苗族女性身着的靛蓝和洋红色服饰随处可见,这使得 Bac Ha 在视觉上与该线路上的其他集市截然不同。

    Coc Ly — 岱依族河流集市

    Coc Ly 位于 Chay 河畔,距离 Bac Ha 西南约 35 公里,集市在每周二举行。这里吸引了更多元的族群——Tay、Dao、Nung 和 Phu La,相比 Bac Ha,这里游客较少,氛围更纯粹。

    这里的食物偏向 Tay 族风味:“banh chung”(方形糯米粽,不过这里做得比春节版小,常作为零食食用)、香蕉叶烤河鱼,以及摊贩装在竹筒里、切片装盘售卖的猪油拌饭,价格约 20,000 VND。面摊供应的猪肉清汤面在精神上更接近“hu tieu”——口味温和清淡,配有几片猪肉和一堆自取的鲜香草。

    Coc Ly 也是购买当地散装绿茶的好地方,通常由坐在低矮塑料凳上、身边堆着大麻袋的 Tay 族老妇人售卖。

    越南 Hà Giang 郁郁葱葱的绿色山脉的绝美航拍图。

    图片来源:Du Tử Mộng,来自 Pexels

    Dong Van — 古街集市

    Dong Van 是 Ha Giang 环线(Ha Giang loop)的核心,坐落在距离 Ha Giang 市以北约 150 公里的 Dong Van 岩石高原上。周日集市在法属时期的旧城区内外举行,那里保留了一片木制店屋,古朴气息浓厚。

    Dong Van 的食物倾向于 Lo Lo 和 Hmong 族群。清晨,在集市入口附近的摊位寻找“au tau”粥——这是一种用当地药用根茎熬制的粥。它味道微苦,暖身且具有药用价值;当地人说这有助于抵御高海拔的寒冷。一碗价格约为 15,000–20,000 VND。

    Dong Van 的玉米饮食文化比其他集市更为明显。“Men men”是一种蒸玉米碎,是高原上许多族群的日常主食,可以单独食用,也可以搭配炖猪肉。这里售卖的玉米酒装在回收的塑料瓶里,酒劲比看起来大得多。

    天黑后(集市会一直持续到傍晚),Dong Van 的烤肉摊位非常热闹,主打烤猪大肠和“cha”——一种在炭火铁丝网上烤制的粗绞肉香肠。站在火炉旁,配上一块附近法式面包摊卖的面包一起吃;这种面包是越南这个角落里的小确幸之一。

    在越南农村,一名妇女正在使用传统的玉米研磨工具,周围悬挂着玉米。

    图片来源:Quang Nguyen Vinh,来自 Pexels

    Meo Vac — 周四集市

    Meo Vac 位于 Dong Van 以东 24 公里处,沿途是越南最壮观的公路路段之一。它的主集市在周日,但周四的规模较小,游客较少,逛起来更轻松。

    Meo Vac 的食物比 Bac Ha 更粗犷,商业化程度更低。Thang co 在这里依然随处可见,整天都在锅里炖煮。值得寻找的特色菜是 Hmong 和 Lo Lo 摊贩从村里带来的干腌猪肉——整块或切片售卖,因为在屋火上方悬挂了数周,带有浓郁的烟熏味。买上一块,配上用竹叶包裹的糯米饭(每份 10,000 VND)一起享用。

    Meo Vac 的集市摊位还拥有该线路中最好的景观:坐在塑料椅上,一边吃着汤面,一边俯瞰 Ma Pi Leng Pass 山谷,山谷在身后垂直下降数百米,景色极其震撼。

    实用建议

    这四个集市都需要自行安排交通——摩托车或租车。周日是 Bac Ha 和 Dong Van 的大集市日;Coc Ly 在周二,Meo Vac 的主集市在周日,周四规模较小。前往 Dong Van 和 Meo Vac 的道路需要摩托车驾照或经验丰富的驾驶技术——Ha Giang 环线风景虽美,但路况严峻。请准备好零钱:在这些摊位上,10,000 和 20,000 VND 的纸币比 100,000 的纸币流通得更快。

    北部高地集市巡礼:值得专程前往的少数民族市集 | Vietnam Wayfarer