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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · phu-quoc

Phu Quoc 美食之旅:鱼露、渔村与夜市

Phu Quoc 不仅仅有海滩——这里的鱼露工厂、滨海村庄和热闹的夜市,使其成为越南南部最值得一去的美食目的地之一。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
A vibrant scene of a street food vendor at Đà Lạt Night Market, Vietnam.
↑ A vibrant scene of a street food vendor at Đà Lạt Night Market, Vietnam.Photo by LUC PH@M on Pexels
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#foodie itinerary#food#phu quoc
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Phu Quoc 大多因其白沙滩和日落而闻名,但这座岛屿的饮食文化——植根于捕鱼、发酵工艺以及湄公河三角洲的影响——本身就足以成为造访的理由。这份两日游行程将带你避开度假村的自助餐,深入当地人的真实餐桌。

    第一天——鱼露、市场与滨海风情

    从源头开始:参观鱼露工厂

    Phu Quoc 的“nuoc mam”(鱼露)可以说是越南最珍贵的调味品——与超市货架上的量产版本相比,它颜色更深、咸味更足、香气更浓郁。岛上的生产商至今仍沿用古法:将整条凤尾鱼与海盐层层堆叠在巨大的木桶中,发酵 12 到 15 个月。Khai Hoan 和 Hung Thanh 两家工厂都向游客开放,无需门票。位于 Duong Dong 镇 Nguyen Van Cu 街的 Hung Thanh 更有氛围——桶房里光线昏暗、凉爽,空气中弥漫着你所期待的那种浓郁香气。

    建议预留 30 分钟。你可以品尝几种不同等级的鱼露,从琥珀色的头道鱼露到后期提取的咸味鱼露。买一瓶“nhi”等级(头道)的带回家——500 毫升大约 50,000–80,000 VND。打包前请务必查看航空公司的液体携带规定。

    Duong Dong 市场——上午

    从 Hung Thanh 步行 10 分钟即可到达 Duong Dong 市场,这是岛上主要的生鲜市场,也是了解 Phu Quoc 人日常饮食最快的方式。海鲜区是重头戏:活泥蟹、螳螂虾、海胆和蛤蜊按公斤计价。后方的熟食区是你吃早餐的好去处。寻找“banh canh”——这是一种在胡椒汤底中加入鱼肉或蟹肉块的浓稠米粉汤。一碗价格在 30,000–40,000 VND 之间。这里的版本使用当地捕获的鱼,且黑胡椒的用量明显多于越南大陆,这是一种值得注意的区域饮食习惯。

    这里还有美味的“bun quay”——一种 Phu Quoc 特色美食,你可以将生海鲜放入桌上的沸腾汤锅中涮食,类似于火锅,但更简单、更便宜。市场北入口附近聚集着好几家摊位。

    下午:Ham Ninh 渔村

    Ham Ninh 位于 Duong Dong 以东 15 公里处,骑摩托车或搭乘 xe om(摩托出租车)约 25 分钟车程。它是岛上为数不多尚未经历大规模重建的渔村之一,码头至今仍在使用——渔船在上午抵达,中午时分,渔获便会在码头上进行分拣和冰镇。

    滨海沿岸排布着一连串海鲜餐厅,菜单大同小异,食材都非常新鲜。点一份烤扇贝配葱油和花生(so diep nuong mo hanh)、香茅蒸蛤蜊,以及老板当天推荐的整条鲜鱼。人均预算约 250,000–350,000 VND,即可享用包含米饭和冷啤酒的丰盛一餐。Ham Ninh 还以红树林中捕获的小而甜的螃蟹——“ghe Ham Ninh”——而闻名,最好蒸熟后蘸姜汁食用。虽然有季节性,但一年中大部分时间都能吃到。

    Phu Quoc 一家鱼露工厂内部,展示了传统生产中使用的巨大木桶。

    图片来源:Quang Nguyen Vinh,来自 Pexels

    第二天——夜市、胡椒农场与南部风味

    上午:Phu Quoc 胡椒

    岛上出产的“ho tieu”(黑胡椒)拥有受保护的地理标志地位。胡椒藤生长在岛屿中部内陆的木桩上;位于 Duong Dong 东北约 8 公里的 Khu Tuong 村有几家欢迎游客的小型农场。这里的胡椒花香更浓,比 Dak Lak 胡椒口感更柔和,几乎是你岛上每一道菜的必备调料。在农场,一袋 100 克的现干 Phu Quoc 胡椒售价约为 60,000–90,000 VND,远低于机场商店。

    午餐:镇上的南部家常菜

    回到 Duong Dong,午餐是品尝“hu tieu”的好时机——这是一种越南南部面汤,配有清澈的猪肉汤底、细米粉和各种配料(猪肉末、虾、鹌鹑蛋、炸葱酥)。它比 pho 更清淡,在南部更为常见。夜市入口附近 Bach Dang 街上的几家小店从上午 11 点左右开始供应。一碗价格为 40,000–50,000 VND。

    傍晚:Dinh Cau 夜市

    位于 Vo Thi Sau 街的 Dinh Cau 夜市从下午 5 点开放至晚上 10 点左右。虽然不可否认这里带有商业气息,但海鲜质量确实很好,因为供应来源是当地且每日新鲜捕获。穿过售卖 T 恤的摊位,直奔美食区。亮点包括:刷上鱼露和辣椒酱的整只烤鱿鱼(muc nuong)、鲜虾“goi cuon”(鲜春卷)、黄油虾米烤玉米,以及装在椰壳里的椰子冰淇淋(30,000 VND)。

    可以喝点“bia hoi”(从桶中现打的生啤),或者点一个新鲜的嫩椰子。夜市的海鲜按重量计价;点餐前请务必问清价格并确认烹饪方式。两人份的海鲜大餐加饮品,根据所选食材,大约需要 400,000–600,000 VND。

    夜市也是购买包装好的鱼露、鱿鱼干和胡椒带回家的好地方——只要避开入口处的摊位,深入市场内部,价格还是相当公道的。

    日落时分,一艘渔船航行在 Phu Quoc 的海面上。

    图片来源:Luke Dang,来自 Pexels

    实用贴士

    品尝美食与旅行的最佳月份:11 月至次年 4 月,此时海面平静,渔船活动最频繁。在 Duong Dong、Ham Ninh 和胡椒农场之间穿梭,最方便的方式是租一辆摩托车——在任何旅馆租车价格约为每天 150,000–200,000 VND。大多数市场和街头小贩只收现金;请随身携带小额钞票。