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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

顺化地道 Banh Beo:拒绝游客特供版

顺化的 Banh Beo——一种铺满虾干和猪油渣的小巧米粉碟——是越南中部最棒的平价美食之一。以下是当地人真正会去吃的地方。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Close-up of a vendor preparing Vietnamese street food with coconut and sauce in Kon Tum.
↑ Close-up of a vendor preparing Vietnamese street food with coconut and sauce in Kon Tum.Photo by Thái Trường Giang on Pexels
Tags
#banh beo#hue#best of#food#street food#central vietnam#rice flour#cheap eats
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    Hue 的街头美食文化远比皇城旅游团所展示的要深厚得多,而 "banh beo" 正是证明这一点的招牌菜。这种拇指大小的蒸米粉碟通常以十到十五个为一叠,上面撒着虾干、酥脆的猪油渣,再淋上一勺甜味鱼露——整顿饭花费不到 30,000 VND,四分钟就能吃完,其风味在越南独树一帜。

    顺化 Banh Beo 的独特之处

    你在 Dong Ba Market 附近找到的游客向导版本往往个头过大、酱汁不足,且配菜的香草显得像是随手敷衍。正宗的 Banh Beo 个头更小——大约只有小酒杯的直径——并且直接盛在蒸制时用的陶瓷小碟里。你需要用小竹签或勺子直接从碟子里吃,鱼露也不是蘸料,而是直接淋在上面的调味汁:鲜美、微甜,透着虾油的香气。

    猪油渣("tep mo" 或 "beo")是必不可少的。如果一家店只给你撒点虾干就草草了事,那他们就是在偷工减料。猪油渣应该经过轻微油炸,不油腻,且中心处仍带有一点嚼劲。一碗好的鱼露应该有层次感,而不仅仅是糖和水的混合。

    Hue 也常将 banh beo 与其家族里的其他蒸米食搭配食用:“banh nam”(扁平状,用芭蕉叶包裹)和“banh loc”(透明的木薯粉团,内馅为虾或猪肉)。下面推荐的大多数店铺都供应这三种美食。

    去哪里吃

    Quan Banh Beo Ba Cu

    地址: 4 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Phu Cat ward 营业时间: 6:30 AM – 11:30 AM(卖完即止,建议 10 AM 前到达) 价格: 15,000–20,000 VND 一叠(10 碟)

    这是 Hue 当地人会毫不犹豫推荐给你的地方。Ba Cu 在这间小店面经营了几十年。这里的鱼露因为加入了虾油而呈现出红润的色泽,风味明显比其他地方稀释过的版本更复杂。座位是塑料凳和拼桌。周末去的话,请做好排队五分钟的准备。

    Quan Ba Do

    地址: 8 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Phu Cat ward(距离 Ba Cu 两间店面之隔) 营业时间: 7 AM – 中午 价格: 15,000–18,000 VND 一叠

    如果 Ba Cu 排队太长,Ba Do 是绝佳的备选——它绝不是安慰奖。这里的猪油渣更厚实,更有乡村风味,有些人反而更喜欢这种口感。他们的 banh nam 非常出色。要求他们多加点 tep(虾干配料),他们会很乐意免费添加。

    Banh Beo Che Hen

    地址: Con Hen 岛,穿过 Nguyen Sinh Cung 街的小桥 营业时间: 每天 7 AM – 1 PM 价格: 20,000–25,000 VND 一份(包含 banh beo, banh nam, banh loc)

    Con Hen 是位于市区东部的一座小河岛,也是 Hue 蛤蜊饭("com hen")的发源地。岛上有几家家庭经营的摊位,除了 banh beo,还供应 com hen 和 "bun hen"(蛤蜊米粉汤)。这里的环境——露天房间里的塑料桌椅,俯瞰着香江的东支流——非常舒适,而且完全没有为了迎合游客而刻意包装。Banh Beo 本身味道不错,虽然不是全城最顶尖,但来这里的理由是体验 Hue 人周日早晨真实的生活场景。

    Quan Banh Beo Vy

    地址: 11 Truong Dinh, Phu Hoi ward 营业时间: 7 AM – 2 PM 价格: 15,000–20,000 VND 一叠

    这是一家靠近火车站附近的狭窄店面,大约能容纳二十人。Vy 对游客来说不如 Ba Cu 出名,但水准始终如一。这里的 banh beo 分量稍大,猪油渣是现点现炸的,而不是提前批量准备的,这在口感上有很大区别。员工很友好,不需要英文菜单——指指旁边桌子吃的就行。

    Lac Thien / Lac Thanh(游客区——阅读注意事项)

    地址: 6 Dinh Tien Hoang,靠近 Imperial Citadel 营业时间: 10 AM – 10 PM 价格: 30,000–50,000 VND 一份

    诚实建议:Lac Thien 和 Lac Thanh 以其听障员工和手写菜单而闻名,自 90 年代以来接待了无数游客。它们的体验并不差,食物也中规中矩。但这里的 banh beo 个头更大、口味更淡,且定价是针对外国游客的。如果你只是刚好在皇城附近顺便吃一顿,那没问题。但如果你是专门为了 Banh Beo 来 Hue 的,建议步行 15 分钟或花 10,000 VND 坐 xe om(摩托出租车)去 Nguyen Binh Khiem。

    用于明火烹饪的正宗越南陶罐,展示了传统的烹饪方法。

    图片来源:Hồng Quang Official on Pexels

    避雷指南

    Dong Ba Market 内部及周边的一簇摊位供应的 Banh Beo 明显个头偏大,口感略显粘牙,且泡在为了应付全天营业而过度稀释的鱼露里。如果你正好在市场购物,顺便吃一口尚可,但千万别把它当作衡量这道菜应有水准的标杆。

    越南繁忙的街头市场景象,小贩的自行车上装满了货物。

    图片来源:Quý Nguyễn on Pexels

    如何点餐

    走进去坐下即可。会有人直接端一叠给你——通常是十个小碟。吃完后,如果你还想吃,他们会再送来。结账时按你吃掉的碟数计算;空碟子会留在桌上以便核对。鱼露是现场淋上去的。如果你喜欢吃辣,可以加点辣椒;大多数好的店都会在小碗里提供新鲜的辣椒片。

    吃一顿完整的大餐——包括 banh beo、banh nam、banh loc 和冰茶——每人大约花费 35,000–60,000 VND。请准备现金。

    实用贴士

    Hue 大多数最好的 Banh Beo 店都在中午或下午 1 点前关门;这绝对是一种早餐和早午餐食物。这道菜不适合晚餐时段——米粉碟会变硬,配料也会失去口感。如果你是下午才到达 Hue,请把吃 Banh Beo 的计划安排在第二天早上。