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  3. 芹苴(Can Tho)的地道Banh Cong:拒绝游客特供版
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · can-tho

芹苴(Can Tho)的地道Banh Cong:拒绝游客特供版

Banh Cong是一种源自朔庄省(Soc Trang)的炸米粉饼,芹苴(Can Tho)已将其演化为当地特色。以下是当地人真正会去吃的店。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Tranquil scene of a misty lake with mountains reflecting in the calm water.
↑ Tranquil scene of a misty lake with mountains reflecting in the calm water.Photo by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels
Tags
#banh cong#can tho#best of#food#street food#mekong delta#southern vietnam#fried food
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    “Banh Cong”——一种由米粉、整粒绿豆、干虾和猪肉制成的金黄酥脆炸饼——是那种根据制作水准,要么人间美味、要么纯属浪费热量的食物。它起源于朔庄省的高棉族社区,随后传入芹苴的饮食文化中。然而在流传过程中,出现了一种专门针对游客的版本:油腻、调味不足,且配着寡淡的蘸酱。本指南将带你寻找真正的地道版本。

    当地版本有何不同

    炸饼本身应该有一圈明显的蕾丝边脆皮——这种褶皱边缘是模具填充得当的标志,而非敷衍了事的产物。内馅的绿豆应该是完整的且口感软糯,而不是煮成糊状。饼顶通常会镶嵌一只肥美的淡水虾。猪肉——通常是一小块带肥的肩肉——增加了油脂香气,却不会喧宾夺主。吃的时候,用芥菜或生菜包裹,塞入新鲜香草,并浸入掺有少许椰子水的“nuoc cham”(鱼露蘸酱)中,而不是单纯的普通鱼露。

    游客快捷版通常会省略猪肉,将面糊稀释并批量油炸。你可以一眼识别出它们:饼身扁平,边缘没有褶皱,且周围没有任何香草。

    去哪里吃

    Banh Cong Co Ut — 宁侨区(Ninh Kieu District)

    地址: 23 Dien Bien Phu, Ninh Kieu 营业时间: 6:30 AM – 11:30 AM(卖完即止,请在9 AM前到达) 价格: 每个12,000–15,000 VND

    这是一家路边摊,而非餐厅。Co Ut 在同一个摊位炸了二十多年的Banh Cong。她同时使用两个模具,每做一个都会先倒入一勺面糊,然后手工压入绿豆和虾。成品口感扎实且热气腾腾。她会配上一盘rau song(混合生香草)和一碗带有明显椰子甜味的nuoc cham。如果10点以后去,她通常已经在收摊了。

    Quan Banh Cong Ba Nhan — 丐冷区(Cai Rang Area)

    地址: 45 Nguyen Van Cu, Cai Rang 营业时间: 每天7 AM – 1 PM 价格: 每个10,000–13,000 VND

    这家店离宁侨河滨较远,但也正因如此更值得一去。Ba Nhan的店里坐着的都是附近工作的当地人,而不是拿着谷歌地图找店的游客。这里的虾比平均水平大——她从朔庄省的供应商处采购——而且猪肉在油炸前经过炖煮,这赋予了它生肉版本所缺乏的层次感。建议至少点六个,点少了的话性价比不高。

    Banh Cong 7 Muoi — 平水区(Binh Thuy District)

    地址: 112 Le Hong Phong, Binh Thuy 营业时间: 3 PM – 7 PM 价格: 每个13,000–15,000 VND

    只在下午营业意味着油非常新鲜,这一点比大多数人意识到的更重要。7 Muoi在当地以在面糊中加入少量芋头而闻名,这使得内馅口感更扎实且饱腹感更强。这不是传统的朔庄风味,而是芹苴的一种改良做法,拥有自己的忠实粉丝。他们会主动提供一大盘香草,无需索要。

    Quan Com Tam Banh Cong Huong Que — 秃衂区(Thot Not District)

    地址: 8 Nguyen Trung Truc, Thot Not 营业时间: 6 AM – 12 PM 价格: 每个10,000 VND

    秃衂(Thot Not)位于芹苴市中心以北约30公里处,但如果你清晨前往水上市场,这里是一个很好的停靠点。这里的Banh Cong较小——模具略薄——但油炸温度更高,这造就了更酥脆的外壳。这也是少数几家将Banh Cong与“bun rieu”(蟹肉米粉汤)一起供应的店,两者搭配起来出奇地美味。

    Tiem Banh Cong Lan Phuong — 春庆坊(Xuan Khanh Ward)

    地址: 67 CMT8 Street, Xuan Khanh, Ninh Kieu 营业时间: 8 AM – 2 PM,周一休息 价格: 每个15,000–18,000 VND

    价格稍贵,环境也更精致。Lan Phuong会用新鲜的cai xanh(芥菜)包裹每一个炸饼,并用一根葱段系好——这种呈现方式起初看起来有些矫情,但当你吃下去时,会发现蔬菜完美地平衡了油腻感。蘸酱装在小瓷碗里,而不是常见的塑料杯中,这虽然不影响味道,但体现了店家的用心。

    越南芹苴水上市场色彩缤纷的饮料和椰子展示。

    图片来源:Pexels上的Vietnam Tri Duong Photographer

    避雷指南

    宁侨河滨步道沿线的一簇Banh Cong摊位,特别是Hai Ba Trung街和Bach Dang街之间的那些,主要是针对从西贡(Saigon)来芹苴进行半日游的旅游团。这些炸饼是预先炸好的,放在盖着的托盘里保温,这完全破坏了外壳的酥脆感。价格为每个20,000–25,000 VND,品质却很一般。摊主很友好,但这里的食物并非你来到芹苴的理由。

    白盘上装有虾和蘸酱的越南春卷特写。

    图片来源:Pexels上的RDNE Stock project

    实用贴士

    大多数Banh Cong店只在上午营业,所以如果你是为了吃它而早起,请提前做好计划。一份完整的餐点——六个炸饼、香草、蘸酱——价格在70,000–100,000 VND之间,具体取决于店铺。如果你在芹苴租了摩托车,丐冷(Cai Rang)和平水(Binh Thuy)的店很容易组合成一条环线,无需折返市中心。