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越南的“素肉”传统:为什么佛教素食能吃出牛肉味? | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all

越南的“素肉”传统:为什么佛教素食能吃出牛肉味?

越南拥有数百年的素食工艺,其精髓远不止于沙拉——无论是寺庙还是街头小摊,都能提供让你惊叹不已的仿荤素食。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Colorful Vietnamese meal featuring noodles, vegetables, and herbs, perfect for authentic culinary themes.
↑ Colorful Vietnamese meal featuring noodles, vegetables, and herbs, perfect for authentic culinary themes.Photo by Sóc Năng Động on Pexels
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#dietary#food#vegetarian#buddhist#street food#culture#hue#saigon#hoi an
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    越南的佛教素食烹饪并非为了克制,而是一种艺术——一种将豆腐做成红烧肉、将小麦面筋做出手撕鸭口感、让一碗素汤拥有牛肉高汤般浓郁鲜味的艺术。这种传统在越南的寺院中已延续了数百年,如今从Hue的寺庙厨房到Saigon的街头小摊,随处可见。

    传统的起源

    越南的佛教素食被称为“an chay”,遵循大乘佛教的教义,强调对所有众生的慈悲。僧侣和信众会在农历的固定日子(通常是每月的初一和十五)以及Tet或农历七月盂兰盆节期间进行“an chay”。对于虔诚的修行者来说,这是一种全职的承诺。

    仿荤肉的工艺源于现实需求:如果你在节日期间吃“an chay”,你依然希望餐桌上有节日的氛围。越南厨师通过开发一套平行的烹饪体系来应对——这些菜肴在不使用任何动物制品的情况下,完美复刻了肉类菜肴的质地、香气和摆盘。这并非妥协,而是一门独立的学科。

    主要食材及其运用

    越南仿荤肉的核心是“dau hu”(豆腐),但不是那种平淡、软糯的块状豆腐。厨师们通过压制、冷冻、油炸和分层来增加其密度和嚼劲。将压制过的豆腐切薄,用酱油、焦糖和五香粉红烧,一眼看去简直就是五花肉。

    “Mien”(粉丝)和“nam”(蘑菇)——尤其是杏鲍菇和香菇——在营造质感方面功不可没。将杏鲍菇撕成丝并用香茅炒制,其纤维感足以让初次尝试的人感到惊讶。

    技术要求更高的是“mì can”——小麦面筋,在西方厨房有时被称为“seitan”。越南厨师使用它已经有几个世纪的历史了。通过塑形、油炸并在香料汤中煨煮,“mì can”成为了仿“bo kho”(牛肉炖菜)、仿烤鸭和仿“cha lua”(猪肉香肠)的基础。其质地浓郁且略带嚼劲——虽然与真肉不完全相同,但在调味得当的情况下,已经非常接近。

    鲜味(Umami)是主要的挑战,厨师们通过发酵豆酱、蘑菇粉、昆布类干海带和浓缩蔬菜高汤来解决。一碗精心制作的“an chay”高汤可以拥有真正的深度。

    一份色彩缤纷的越南拼盘,包含春卷和香肠等传统菜肴。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫

    传统美食的精髓

    Hue(顺化)是越南佛教素食烹饪无可争议的中心。这座城市深厚的皇家和寺院历史意味着这里的“an chay”绝非随意的配角,而是一个严肃的烹饪流派。在天姥寺(Thien Mu Pagoda)周围以及HueImperial Citadel附近的街道上,小餐馆会在农历节日提供完整的仿荤菜单。一定要尝试仿制的“bun bo Hue”——原版是越南口味最浓郁的牛肉米粉汤之一,而素食版用红烧豆腐和“mì can”取代了猪蹄和猪血,并利用发酵豆酱和辣椒保留了香茅和虾酱的辛辣风味。

    在Saigon(西贡),第3区和第10区聚集了许多每天营业的“quan chay”(素食餐厅),而不局限于农历节日。价格非常亲民——一份完整的仿“com tam”(碎米饭配仿烤肉和蛋)大约在35,000–50,000 VND之间。仿“banh mi”也值得一试:经典的越南法棍面包里塞满了仿“cha lua”、腌菜和辣椒——馅料调味极佳,让你不得不重新审视素食的可能性。

    Hoi An的老城区边缘,尤其是市场附近,也有一些不错的“an chay”选择。一碗用豆腐和蘑菇代替猪肉制作的仿“cao lau”(高楼面)——这是Hoi An标志性的劲道面食——是非常不错的替代品,尽管纯粹主义者会指出原版面条中使用了猪油。

    一碗美味的越南豆腐香草汤,是丰盛餐食的完美选择。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Connor Scott McManus

    哪些菜不适合仿制

    并非所有菜肴都适合“仿荤”。仿海鲜——尤其是用魔芋制成的假虾——往往口感橡胶化且空洞。“Goi cuon”(越南春卷)是少数根本不需要“仿荤”处理的菜肴之一;由香草、米粉和豆腐组成的版本本身就是一道独特且美味的菜肴,强行将其做成“假虾”造型往往画蛇添足。

    一些“quan chay”过于依赖味精来弥补动物油脂的缺失,这会让所有菜肴的味道都变得单一且咸味过重。更好的餐厅则会投入更多精力在长时间熬制的高汤和发酵调味品上。

    实用贴士

    寻找招牌上的“chay”字样——这意味着素食,挂有此招牌的餐厅通常会有完整的仿荤菜单。农历节日(每月的初一和十五)是即使非素食餐厅也会增加“an chay”特供菜品的日子。如果你去Hue旅行,至少安排一顿饭在寺庙区的素食餐厅享用——那里的烹饪水准代表了越南素食的高标准,也是其他城市街头小摊仍在努力追求的目标。