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  3. 八角、肉桂与草果:赋予越南美食灵魂的香料
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all

八角、肉桂与草果:赋予越南美食灵魂的香料

谅山八角、茶眉肉桂以及来自北部高地的黑草果——带你了解越南最核心香料的产地,以及如何挑选优质好货。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Macro shot showing detailed textures of star anise spice, highlighting its distinct shape and color.
↑ Macro shot showing detailed textures of star anise spice, highlighting its distinct shape and color.Photo by Raul Ling on Pexels
Tags
#regional specialty#food#spices#pho#ingredients#markets#lang son#hoi an#hanoi#saigon
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    越南的香料架虽然精简,却至关重要。三种芳香物质——八角、肉桂皮和黑草果——在定义越南烹饪方面比货架上的任何其他东西都更具决定性。了解它们的产地,以及如何区分优质与平庸,无论你是居家烹饪还是在市场采购,都能带来截然不同的体验。

    八角 —— 谅山最珍贵的作物

    “Hoi”是越南语中对八角的称呼,如果你喝过一碗Pho,你一定尝过它的味道。那种让汤底闻起来令人垂涎欲滴、深邃且鲜甜的基底,正是由八角与肉桂共同支撑起来的。

    越南是全球主要的八角生产国之一,大部分产自距离Hanoi东北约150公里的谅山省(靠近中国边境)。那里凉爽、潮湿且富含石灰岩的地形非常适合八角树(Illicium verum)的生长。八角一年收获两次,主产季在7月和8月,次产季在1月底。

    谅山八角的八角油含量明显高于超市里预包装的产品。当你掰开一颗新鲜的果实,那股香气几乎具有侵略性——甜美、略带药香,非常纯净。将其与在塑料罐里放了六个月的陈货对比一下,你就会明白为什么产地溯源如此重要。

    如果你在Hanoi,寻找优质谅山八角的最佳地点是Dong Xuan Market,特别是底层的干货区。那些售卖用于制作Pho汤底的整粒香料的摊主非常了解他们的产品。优质干八角的价格约为每100克80,000–120,000 VND。

    肉桂 —— 虽非传统桂皮,却是此道菜的最佳选择

    西方人常称其为肉桂,但越南肉桂(Cinnamomum loureiroi)是一个独特的品种,比斯里兰卡肉桂具有更锐利、更浓郁的树脂香气。它常用于Pho(越南河粉)汤底、Bun Cha Hue的香料配方,以及那些需要温润感而无需甜味的慢炖肉类菜肴中。

    广南省——特别是西部高地的茶眉(Tra My)地区——出产着许多厨师心目中越南最好的肉桂。茶眉肉桂的精油含量更高,这意味着它具有更强劲、近乎辛辣温热的香气。当地农民会从至少15年树龄的树上剥取树皮;树龄较小的树皮较薄,香气也较淡。

    北部的安沛省(Yen Bai)也出产大量的肉桂,在Hanoi的市场里更容易买到。其品质尚可,不过在行家眼中,茶眉肉桂依然是首选。

    购买时请注意:寻找那种厚实、卷曲紧密的肉桂卷,且内侧呈红褐色。那种一捏就碎、薄如纸片的树皮通常已经失去了大部分挥发油。在Hoi An,你可以在陈富街(Tran Phu Street)的小店里找到茶眉肉桂——这是当地特产之一,相比于灯笼和裁缝店,它往往被游客忽略。

    一捆捆肉桂棒的特写,展示了其质地和香料气息。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Alfredo Marco Pradil

    黑草果 —— 大多数游客错过的香料

    黑草果(越南语称为“Tham tu”或“thao qua”,学名Amomum tsaoko)是大多数游客在喝Pho汤时察觉不到,但如果缺少它便会立刻感到不对劲的香料。它增添了一种烟熏、略带樟脑气息的深度,使汤底不会显得平淡或单调。

    黑草果与印度或中东烹饪中使用的绿豆蔻不同。它的果实硕大、色泽深暗,经过木火烘干,因此带有独特的烟熏味。越南的产量集中在北部高地——Ha Giang、老街省(Lao Cai)和莱州省(Lai Chau)——这些植物生长在海拔1000米以上、森林树冠遮蔽的阴凉处。

    对于家庭厨师来说,黑草果值得专门寻找,而不是用其他香料替代。在放入汤锅前,只需将一颗果实放在干锅里轻微烘烤,就足以发挥其作用。如果过量使用,汤底会产生过重的药味和刺激感。

    在Hanoi的老城区,杭昭街(Hang Chieu)和兰翁街(Lan Ong)附近的香料店都有稳定的黑草果供应。价格约为每100克60,000–90,000 VND。在Saigon,堤岸(Cho Lon)的Binh Tay市场有一个极好的干货区,在那里你可以找到这三种香料,它们通常被打包成预分装好的Pho香料包出售。

    一个热闹的越南市场摊位,陈列着各种干货和香料。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Tuan Vy

    如何挑选优质香料

    基本原则是:购买整粒的、从库存流转快的摊位购买,并在购买前闻一闻。陈年的八角几乎闻不到味道。新鲜的肉桂应该有刺鼻的香气。黑草果应该有清晰的烟熏草本味,而不是陈旧的灰尘味。

    对于想带香料回家的游客,整粒香料比磨成粉的更易携带,因为它们能更长久地保留精油。请将它们装在密封容器中,而不是市场常用的纸袋里。各国海关规定各异,但整粒干香料通常在大多数国家是被允许携带的;在行李中塞入一公斤肉桂之前,请务必检查你所在国家的生物安全规定。

    如果你对采购非常认真,Hanoi的Dong Xuan市场特产楼层或Saigon滨城市场(Ben Thanh Market)的药材香料摊位是城市中最可靠的选择。如果追求特定产地——如茶眉肉桂或谅山八角——在产地附近购买通常能获得更好的价格和更新鲜的产品。

    实用小贴士

    这三种香料是大多数越南北部炖煮和熬汤的核心,因此学会辨别优质品种在厨房里非常受用。在Dong Xuan或Binh Tay等批发市场的价格远低于面向游客的商店。如果你在家煮Pho,一锅标准汤底大约需要3–4颗八角、一根7–10厘米的肉桂棒和2颗黑草果——如果放得太多,汤底的味道会变得过重,甚至带有药味。