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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hanoi

河内三日美食之旅:从清晨到午夜

三天时间,一座城市,还有数不清的美味佳肴。这份指南将带你深入河内,从老城区的早餐摊位到湖畔咖啡馆,再到陶瓷村的瓦罐饭,教你如何像当地人一样品味河内。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Fresh Vietnamese beef noodle salad with herbs and peppers in a bowl. Perfect for healthy eating enthusiasts.
↑ Fresh Vietnamese beef noodle salad with herbs and peppers in a bowl. Perfect for healthy eating enthusiasts.Photo by FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels
Tags
#foodie itinerary#food#hanoi#street food#old quarter#tay ho#bat trang
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    7 Days Eating Through Can Tho and Phu Quoc: The Southern Food Crescent

    在 Hanoi 待上三天,只要你不再执着于打卡每一座寺庙,而是跟随味蕾的指引,就足以吃得非常尽兴。这份美食地图涵盖了从清晨到午夜的行程,按街区划分,既有足够的结构安排让你不至于漫无目的地游荡,又留有余地,让你在想喝第二杯咖啡时可以随时坐下。

    第一天 — 老城区,从汤面到街头

    清晨

    一定要在早上 7:30 前出发,否则你可能连个塑料凳都抢不到。"Pho" 是最理所当然的开场,而在这个选择上,最显而易见的往往就是正确的。位于 Lo Duc 的 Pho Thin(距离 Hoan Kiem Lake 东南约 2 公里,值得专门打车前往)提供一种炒牛肉版本的 Pho,比河内标准的汤面口感更精瘦、更有焦香味,价格约 60,000–70,000 VND。如果你想留在老城区内,Bat Dan 的 Pho Gia Truyen 是经典之选:排队、挤进去、快速吃完、离开。价格区间相同。

    穿过 Hang Be 的巷子市场消消食,然后折返回去寻找 "banh cuon"——这是一种包裹着猪肉末和木耳的蒸米卷——在 Hang Ga 的小店里都能找到。看着店主将米浆摊在架在沸水上的布面上,大约 90 秒就能做出一张。一盘价格在 40,000–50,000 VND 左右。

    午餐

    "Bun cha" 是河内午餐的灵魂。还没看到店面,炭火的香气就会先扑鼻而来。前往 Hang Manh 或 Dinh Liet 附近的餐馆聚集区——大多数店在上午 11 点前就会在门外架起烤炉。你会得到一碗酸甜适口的汤汁、烤猪肉饼、五花肉片,配上一盘新鲜香草和蘸着吃的米粉。价格约 50,000–60,000 VND。记得加一份 "nem chua ran"(炸发酵猪肉卷)。

    下午

    这是咖啡时间。河内的“蛋咖啡”——"ca phe trung"——起源于此,最正宗的店就在 Nguyen Huu Huan 的 Cafe Giang,沿着一条窄窄的楼梯上去,很容易错过。口感浓郁,宛如卡仕达酱,甜度极高。如果能抢到位置,坐在阳台上享用吧:30,000–40,000 VND。

    晚餐与深夜

    "Bun thang" 是河内最费工的汤面——鸡汤经过数小时熬制,清澈见底,上面铺着鸡丝、蛋皮丝、干虾,如果喜欢还可以加一点虾酱。Cau Go 和 Hang Hom 附近的餐馆都有不错的出品。最后,以 Ta Hien 和 Luong Ngoc Quyen 街角的 "bia hoi" 结束这一天:新鲜酿造的扎啤,每杯 10,000–15,000 VND,从桶里直接倒入塑料杯。再点一份烤鱿鱼或 "goi cuon",这些都是在餐桌旁穿梭的流动摊贩提供的。

    第二天 — 西湖咖啡馆与竹帛湖畔

    清晨

    Tay Ho(西湖)的氛围与老城区截然不同——节奏更慢,更具生活气息,咖啡也更好。在 Dang Thai Mai 或 Tay Ho 路边找一家低调的小店,来一杯 "ca phe sua da":冰牛奶咖啡,炼乳加得恰到好处,浓郁醇厚,25,000–35,000 VND。配上一个 Xuan Dieu 街头摊位的 "Banh mi" 是极好的选择——河内风格的 Banh mi 不像西贡那样配料繁多,通常只有肉酱、冷切肉和少许黄油,20,000–30,000 VND。

    午餐

    往南走去 Truc Bach Lake,找一家做 "banh tom"(炸虾饼,配有红薯丝)的店——这是河内的特色小吃,在其他地方很难吃到这么地道的。蘸着 nuoc cham(鱼露蘸水)趁热吃。一份价格约 50,000–80,000 VND。沿着湖边的 Tran Vu 路有几家口碑不错的店。

    下午与晚上

    下午可以慢节奏度过。Tran Quoc Pagoda 坐落在西湖岸边的一座小岛上——如果想散散步,值得一看。傍晚时分,在 Au Co 路附近的街边摊吃一碗 "chao suon"(猪排骨粥):暖胃、简单,约 30,000 VND。

    晚餐回到湖边,找一家做 "lau"(越南火锅)的餐厅。Tay Ho 有一排深受当地人喜爱的火锅店。两人份的丰盛套餐,包含肉类、海鲜和蔬菜,价格在 300,000–500,000 VND 之间。

    越南胡志明市,充满绿植的悠闲户外咖啡馆。

    图片来源:Thanh Long Bùi / Pexels

    第三天 — 巴特朗陶瓷村,像陶工一样进食

    Bat Trang 距离河内市中心 13 公里——打车或用 Grab 约 30 分钟,从 Long Bien 车站坐公交车约 40 分钟。这个村庄以陶瓷闻名,但它还有一个大多数游客完全忽略的河畔食品市场。

    早市

    上午 8 点前到达,直接前往主路附近的室内市场。摊位供应 "banh khuc"——这是一种包裹着绿豆和猪油的糯米团,外层裹着糯米和干鼠曲草,是河内特色,在当地市场外很难找到。每个约 10,000–15,000 VND。还可以找找 "xoi xeo"(姜黄糯米配绿豆和炸红葱头):每袋 20,000–30,000 VND。

    午餐

    村里在陶瓷作坊附近聚集了一些 "com binh dan"(家常饭)摊位,那是工人们吃饭的地方。从展示柜里选几样看起来新鲜的菜——炖猪肉、炒空心菜、蒸蛋——满满一盘通常不超过 50,000 VND。像当地陶工一样吃饭吧。

    回到河内晚餐

    从哪里开始,就从哪里结束:夜晚的老城区。在 Hang Bong 的夜市摊位来一碗 "bun rieu"——鲜美的蟹肉番茄米粉汤——是结束这段旅程的完美方式。大约 50,000 VND,站在路边或者坐在小板凳上吃,晚上 10 点,城市依然活力四射。

    戴着斗笠的妇女在传统的砖窑环境中制作陶罐。

    图片来源:Quang Nguyen Vinh / Pexels

    实用贴士

    大多数街头摊位只收现金——请准备好小额钞票(10,000–50,000 VND 面额)。老城区适合步行,但所需时间比 Google 地图显示的要长;高峰时段请预留 15–20 分钟的步行时间。河内人吃饭很早:最好的早餐摊位通常在上午 9 点前就卖光了,而 bun cha 烤炉通常在下午 1:30 左右就会熄火。