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Bac Xiu:你一直忽略的西贡粤式越南奶咖 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · ho-chi-minh-city

Bac Xiu:你一直忽略的西贡粤式越南奶咖

Bac xiu口感更轻盈、更甜,源自Cholon的华越社区。当粤式咖啡文化悄然重塑西贡经典,就诞生了这款独特的饮品。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Refreshing iced coffee with milk, served on a rustic table outdoors, surrounded by natural light.
↑ Refreshing iced coffee with milk, served on a rustic table outdoors, surrounded by natural light.Photo by Sóc Năng Động on Pexels
Tags
#drinks#food#ho chi minh city#coffee#chinatown#cholon#street food#local culture
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    如果你每天早上都点“ca phe sua da”,并认为这就是西贡冰咖啡的全部,那么“bac xiu”就是那款一直静静待在柜台边,却被游客们完全忽略的饮品。

    它从哪里来

    Bac xiu的根源可以追溯到Cholon——西贡的唐人街区,以第5郡的Binh Tay市场为中心。在19和20世纪的大部分时间里,Cholon(在粤语中大致意为“大市场”)是东南亚商业最活跃的华人社区之一,吸引了广东、潮州和福建的移民,他们也将自己的饮食习惯带到了这里。

    Cholon的中式咖啡馆传统上供应炼乳比例较高的饮品——这更接近港式奶茶的逻辑,即乳制品是主角,而非点缀。经过几代人的融合,它与越南滴漏咖啡文化相结合,产生了bac xiu:一种在制作工艺上绝对是越南特色,但在比例和精神内核上却属于粤式的饮品。

    这个名字本身就源自粤语:“白少”,意为“白色的、少量的”或“大部分是白色的”——这正是你拿到饮品时所看到的景象。

    它与Ca Phe Sua有何不同

    简而言之:bac xiu是ca phe sua da(越南冰咖啡)的倒置版。在“ca phe sua da”中,咖啡是主体,加入炼乳是为了增加甜度和醇厚感;而bac xiu则颠倒了这种比例。它的基底是炼乳——有时会加入鲜奶或淡奶——只加入少量的越南滴漏咖啡来提味和调色。

    成品呈浅色,近乎米色。它明显更甜、奶味更浓,咖啡因含量也低得多。咖啡的存在感更像是一种背景音——一种穿透甜味却不喧宾夺主的苦涩。与其说它是一款加奶的咖啡,不如说它是一款加了咖啡的奶饮。

    这种区别在以下几个方面很重要:

    • 咖啡因敏感度:如果你想体验越南咖啡的仪式感,又不想摄入过量咖啡因,bac xiu是一个合理的选择。这也是许多越南长者选择它的原因。
    • 甜度水平:它的甜度是ca phe sua所不具备的。如果你觉得越南冰咖啡太浓烈或太苦,bac xiu是一个很自然的替代方案,而不是一种妥协。
    • 口感:更高的奶量赋予了它一种近乎甜点的浓稠感。有些版本会在冰块加入前,在杯底铺上一层炼乳——你可以自己搅拌。

    西贡繁忙的街道,背景可见Highland Coffee和熙攘的车流。

    图片来源:Nguyễn Trường,来自Pexels

    它是如何制作的

    制作过程遵循基本的越南滴漏法。一个小小的phin滤壶放在装有炼乳(有时是炼乳和淡奶的混合物)的杯子上,滴入少许深烘焙的越南咖啡。与标准的ca phe sua相比,咖啡的量减少了:奶与咖啡的比例大约是60–70%比30–40%,不过这取决于店铺以及店员对你的判断。

    在西贡炎热的天气里,冰饮(bac xiu da)是标配。热饮(bac xiu nong)也有,但在第5郡的老式咖啡馆之外不太常见。

    咖啡馆木桌上放着一杯插着吸管的冰咖啡,旁边是绿植。

    图片来源:🇻🇳🇻🇳Nguyễn Tiến Thịnh 🇻🇳🇻🇳,来自Pexels

    在西贡哪里可以找到它

    在西贡找到bac xiu并不难,但最正宗的还是在Cholon及其周边。随着时间的推移,这款饮品已遍布全城,许多街头咖啡摊都能听懂你的订单——但第5郡Chau Van Liem Street和Nguyen Trai Street沿线的老式咖啡店才是它真正的归宿。

    一些实用建议:

    • Phuoc Kien Ca Phe(靠近第5郡Binh Tay市场)是一家老字号,吸引了大量本地顾客,bac xiu da的价格通常在25,000–30,000 VND左右。
    • 第5郡的任何一家“ca phe co truyen”(传统咖啡店)菜单上几乎肯定都有它。如果没看到,直接问就行——大多数老派店铺都知道怎么做。
    • 在第5郡之外,寻找那些经营时间较长的咖啡馆。第1郡或第3郡的新型精品咖啡店不太可能提供它,即使有,也可能是改良版,而非原始比例。

    全市的价格根据地段不同,在20,000到40,000 VND之间。除非有人刻意将其重新包装,否则你不会看到80,000 VND的价格。

    为什么值得一试

    Bac xiu并不比ca phe sua da更好或更差——它是一种表达不同风味的饮品。它的存在是因为一个社区将越南咖啡文化调整为符合自己的味觉记忆,结果它悄然成为了城市肌理的一部分,却在Cholon之外鲜少受到关注。

    如果你在西贡,正在深入探索这座城市的咖啡文化——从用phin滴漏的越南咖啡到浓郁的ca phe sua da传统——bac xiu填补了大多数咖啡指南完全忽略的空白。这也是你在第5郡消磨一个上午的充分理由,那里绝对值得你花时间细细品味,而不仅仅是匆匆走过Binh Tay市场。

    实用贴士: Bac xiu在第5郡Binh Tay市场周边最容易找到。直接点名即可——大多数西贡咖啡摊主都能立刻明白。街头小店的价格预计在25,000–35,000 VND,除非你在早上8点前去且天气异常凉爽,否则记得点da(加冰)。