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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · ho-chi-minh-city

在 Saigon 品尝正宗的 Hu Tieu Nam Vang:美食家指南

源自金边的金边粿条(Hu Tieu Nam Vang)融合了鲜虾、猪肉和炸蒜的精华,如今已在 Saigon 找到了最地道的归宿。以下是几家值得你专程前往品尝的店铺。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Outdoor cafe seating with vibrant food mural on green wall, showcasing local cuisine in a city environment.
↑ Outdoor cafe seating with vibrant food mural on green wall, showcasing local cuisine in a city environment.Photo by HONG SON on Pexels
Tags
#hu tieu nam vang#ho chi minh city#best of#food#street food#noodles#saigon eats#breakfast
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    Saigon 不仅仅是借用了来自金边的“hu tieu Nam Vang”——它吸收了它,围绕它展开了讨论,并将其变成了自己的招牌。你在这里吃到的一碗面是这样的:清澈的猪骨和干鱿鱼汤底,配上细米粉,上面铺着猪肉末、猪肝片、整虾、一两颗鹌鹑蛋,再撒上一把灵魂炸蒜。它比你预想的更清爽,比看起来更复杂,而且让人一天吃两次也不会觉得过分。

    为什么 Saigon 的版本与众不同

    柬埔寨的原版口味偏甜,海鲜用量更多。而 Saigon 的版本则将其调整为更清澈、更鲜美的汤底——用猪骨与虾干、白萝卜长时间熬制——并融入了潮州菜的影响,这塑造了越南南部街头美食的独特风味。这里的炸蒜是必不可少的。如果一家店端上来的面没有铺上一层金灿灿的炸蒜,那就直接跳过吧。另外,点餐时要注意:你可以点“kho”(干拌,汤另装)或“nuoc”(汤面,汤在碗里)。初次尝试者建议点汤面。常客们总是会争论哪种更好吃,直到有人又点了一碗。

    值得打卡的地址

    Hu Tieu Nam Vang Thanh Xuan

    278 Vo Van Tan, District 3 营业时间:每天 6am – 2pm 价格:55,000–75,000 VND

    这是一家老字号,早已过了需要刻意讨好客人的阶段。塑料凳、日光灯,阿姨们动作麻利。这里的汤底非常清澈,没有杂质,也没有味精的厚重感,那种鲜甜来自骨汤本身而非添加糖。虾很新鲜,不是冷冻的,炸蒜会装在一个小碟里供你自行添加,你肯定会忍不住多加一些。如果你不想排队,最好在早上 9 点之前去。

    Hu Tieu My Tho 93

    93 Truong Dinh, District 3 营业时间:每天 5:30am – 11am 价格:45,000–65,000 VND

    严格来说,这是 hu tieu (후띠우 / 粿条 / フーティウ) Nam Vang 与美拖(My Tho)风格的结合体,这意味着面条稍粗,汤底更浓郁。这种搭配很成功。猪肝切得很薄,火候恰到好处——这个细节区分了普通店铺和优质店铺。只收现金,没有英文菜单,但指指隔壁桌的碗总是管用的。

    Hu Tieu Nam Vang Phu Cuong

    51B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1 营业时间:每天 6am – 3pm 价格:60,000–85,000 VND

    比起大多数优质的 hu tieu 店,这家店的地理位置更中心,这既方便但也让人稍有疑虑——但 Phu Cuong 用实力证明了它的地位。配料非常慷慨:两只虾、一颗鹌鹑蛋、猪肝,还有足量的猪肉末,整碗面看起来精心搭配过,而不是随意堆砌。如果你已经在别处喝过汤,可以试试这里的干拌版。汤会装在一个单独的小杯子里,鲜美浓郁,可以用来蘸着吃。

    Quan Hu Tieu Ky

    307 Nguyen Trai, District 5 营业时间:每天 5am – noon 价格:40,000–60,000 VND

    如果你想寻找这道菜的潮州华人根源,第五郡(District 5)是必去之地。Ky 自 20 世纪 80 年代就开始营业,配方至今未变。汤底除了猪骨外还加入了比目鱼干,这赋予了汤底一种淡淡的海洋深邃感,喝第二口时比第一口更能感受到。分量比新式店铺小,但价格也相应更低。这可能是这份名单中历史味道最纯正的一碗面。

    Hu Tieu Nam Vang Co Ba

    Hem 98 Nguyen Thi Nho, Tan Binh District 营业时间:每天 6am – 1pm 价格:35,000–50,000 VND

    这是一个藏在巷子里的摊位,需要费点心思才能找到,但 35,000 VND 就能吃到一碗配有鹌鹑蛋和猪肝的完整面条,这种价格让你仿佛回到了 2015 年。Co Ba 是老板娘,她在这里经营了十多年,常客们把这里当作社区食堂。没有游客,没有 Instagram 招牌,也没有英文。只有在 Tan Binh 区繁忙街道旁的一条窄巷里,一碗非常棒的面。

    避坑指南:滨城市场附近的连锁店

    在 滨城市场 500 米范围内,至少有三家挂着 hu tieu Nam Vang 招牌的店铺,它们专门针对游客和午餐人群。汤底勉强合格,配料也算齐全,面条本身没什么大问题——但也没有什么亮点。炸蒜是批量预制的,吃起来有股陈味。虾也很小。你花 90,000–110,000 VND 买的是地段,而不是品质。往任何方向走十五分钟,都能以更低的价格吃到更好的味道。

    盘中美味的猪肉鲜蔬炒乌冬面。

    图片来源:Cats Coming on Pexels

    何时前往及如何点餐

    Hu tieu Nam Vang 是早餐和早午餐的选择。大多数最好的店铺在中午或下午 1 点前就关门了——在 Saigon 的街头美食文化中,这不是一道晚餐菜肴,尽管有些餐厅全天供应。第一次去时点中碗(“vua”)即可,不要点大碗。记得多要一份炸蒜(“toi phi”)。如果桌上有新鲜的豆芽、空心菜和青柠,一定要用上。这些香草能化解油腻,让后半碗面吃起来和第一口一样美味。

    在繁忙的 Ho Chi Minh City 露天市场,街头小贩正在供应 hu tieu go 面。

    图片来源:Trần Phan Phạm Lê on Pexels

    实用贴士

    大多数摊位只收现金,且仅提供越南语服务——手机里存一张菜品的照片作为通用点餐方式非常有效。每碗预算在 40,000–85,000 VND 之间,具体取决于所在的区域以及你是坐在巷子摊位还是正规店面。尽量在早上 9 点前到达,以喝到最鲜美的汤底,避免汤底在早高峰后被反复稀释。