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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

顺化 Banh Beo 指南:如何从容点餐

Banh beo 是顺化一种精致的蒸米粉小碟,上面撒有干虾仁和炸猪皮。只要掌握了点餐规则,你一定会爱上这种美味。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Top view of delicious sandwiches with fresh prosciutto and green herbs arranged on wicker tray in light room at home
↑ Top view of delicious sandwiches with fresh prosciutto and green herbs arranged on wicker tray in light room at homePhoto by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels
Tags
#banh beo#hue#guide#food#street food#hue cuisine#rice flour#central vietnam
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    Hue 以其繁琐、讲究的宫廷饮食文化而闻名,而 "banh beo"(水蕨饼)看起来也确实符合这一印象——但这仅仅是外表。实际上,它是这座城市里最平易近人的美食之一,一叠十个小碟的价格不到 20,000 VND。

    你到底在吃什么

    "Banh beo"(字面意思:水蕨饼)是直径约 7–8 厘米的小型蒸米粉碟,盛放在制作时使用的小陶瓷杯或塑料杯中。每个米粉碟上都撒有一小撮干虾仁("tom chay")、酥脆的炸猪皮(注意不要与糯米制品 "banh chung" 混淆),有时还会淋上一勺浓缩的 "nuoc mam"(鱼露)。蘸酱通常单独提供:一种用少量水稀释并加入辣椒提味的甜咸鱼露。

    它的口感柔软,中心略带胶质感,边缘则因蒸制而形成一层薄皮。配料提供了酥脆感和咸鲜味,而蘸酱则将一切融合在一起。吃起来一点也不复杂——用小勺子将米粉碟从杯中撬出,蘸一下酱汁或淋上酱汁,两口就能吃完一个。

    如果你感到紧张,那通常是在点餐环节。

    如何点餐

    在顺化的大多数 banh beo 店里,你不需要按个点餐。坐下后,店员会直接端上一叠杯子放在桌上——有时十个,有时十五个。你吃多少算多少,结账时根据你吃空的杯子数量计算。店员最后会清点杯子数量。

    有些店会提前问你要多少。一个人的标准量大约是 10 个杯子。如果你不确定,可以竖起十根手指说 "muoi cai"(10 个)。这样就可以开始了,不够的话随时可以再加。

    蘸酱碗是共用的。如果你和别人同桌,通常会有一个公用的酱碗。你可以直接将酱汁淋在米粉碟上,或者将米粉碟放入碗中蘸食——两种方式都可以。如果是共用,请注意不要用勺子二次蘸取。

    2024 年的价格在当地小店约为每个 1,500–2,000 VND,所以 10 个一份的价格约为 15,000–20,000 VND。在面向游客、环境稍好的店里,同样数量的价格约为 25,000–35,000 VND。

    顺化市场中拍摄的配有新鲜香草、辣椒和鱼露的越南面条。

    摄影:Pew Nguyen,来自 Pexels

    顺化去哪吃

    Quan Banh Beo Ba Cu, 33 Nguyen Binh Khiem

    当你认真询问时,大多数顺化本地人都会向你推荐这家店。它位于香江(Huong River)南岸的 Phuoc Vinh 区,远离游客聚集区。通常早上 7 点开门,生意好的话中午就卖完了。塑料凳、没有英文菜单、日光灯照明——这才是最地道的体验。15 个杯子的一叠总价约 25,000 VND。

    Banh Beo Chi Hoa, 1/34 Nguyen Binh Khiem

    就在 Ba Cu 的转角处,店面稍微紧凑一些。这里的炸猪皮切得更厚,保持酥脆的时间更长。营业时间大约从早上 6:30 到 11:30。价格区间相同。

    Nguyen Binh Khiem 街上的其他店铺

    这条街已经成为了 banh beo、banh nam 和 "banh loc"(虾仁木薯粉饺)的聚集地。如果一家店坐满了,往前走二十米试试下一家,整条街的品质都很稳定。

    如果你想在靠近 Imperial Citadel 的市中心用餐,Dong Ba 市场的二楼有几家摊位从清晨就开始供应 banh beo——如果你正好在逛市场,这里很方便,不过环境会更嘈杂,而且杯子有时在重复使用前不会清洗。

    搭配什么一起吃

    Banh beo 的菜单上几乎总会出现它的顺化“兄弟”小吃。"Banh nam" 是用香蕉叶包裹的扁平蒸米粉,里面有虾仁,口感更扎实、更有谷物香气。"Banh loc" 是半透明的木薯粉饺,通常包着整只虾和一片猪肉。三样都点,你就能享受到正宗的顺化宫廷风味小吃拼盘,且不会感到过分饱腹。

    关于饮料:大多数 banh beo 店不卖咖啡。坐下之前,可以在隔壁摊位买一杯 Vietnamese coffee 或 ca phe sua da(炼乳咖啡)。没人会在意。

    美味的越南 banh bot loc,盛在香蕉叶上,配有风味十足的蘸酱。

    摄影:Hải Nguyễn,来自 Pexels

    时间建议

    在顺化,Banh beo 属于早晨和上午的食物。大多数专门店在下午 1 点前就会关门。有些店会在下午(约 3–5 点)重新营业,但品种会减少。建议在早上 7 点到 10 点之间前往,以品尝最齐全、最新鲜的批次。

    实用贴士

    带好小额钞票——10,000 和 20,000 VND 的纸币。大多数这类小店不支持刷卡。如果你住在皇城附近,Nguyen Binh Khiem 街位于 Phu Xuan 桥以南约 2 公里处,乘坐 xe om(摩托车出租车)约 10 分钟,或者沿着河边步行也是不错的选择。