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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central

Banh Muot 与 Ha Tinh 的独特地方风味

Ha Tinh 安静地坐落在 Hue 和 Vinh 之间,但其饮食文化却令人难忘——以丝滑的 Banh Muot 和一系列别处难寻的特色美食为核心。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Traditional Vietnamese bò bía snacks displayed outdoors in Hà Nội, Vietnam.
↑ Traditional Vietnamese bò bía snacks displayed outdoors in Hà Nội, Vietnam.Photo by Hồng Quang Official on Pexels
Tags
#regional specialty#food#ha tinh#central vietnam#street food
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Ha Tinh 的游客并不多——大多数人只是沿着 1 号公路向北前往 Vinh,或向南前往 Hue。这是一个值得纠正的错误,至少为了吃上一顿饭也是值得的。该省拥有真正独特的饮食特征,建立在一些当地人引以为傲、且很少出现在游客视野中的菜肴之上。

    Banh Muot — 定义该省的招牌菜

    “Banh muot”是这里必点的美食。这个名字大致翻译为“湿滑的蛋糕”,虽然这个译名不够贴切,但至少很准确。这道菜是“banh cuon”的近亲——薄薄的蒸米浆皮,柔软且半透明——但 Ha Tinh 的版本有其独特的个性。米皮卷得比较松,通常保持半开口状态,而不是紧紧密封,并盛在浅碗里,淋上温热的肉汤,而不是像干吃那样配蘸酱。

    肉汤是其独特之处。这是一种清淡的猪骨汤,清澈且微甜,有时会在表面淋上一勺熬制的红葱油。米卷里的馅料通常是猪肉末和木耳,不过有些摊贩会加入少量干虾仁来增加风味层次。顶部撒上少许炸红葱头、几枝越南香菜 (rau ram),如果需要的话,还可以挤一点青柠汁。

    口感的组合——柔软的米皮、温热的肉汤、红葱头的微脆——就是它的全部魅力所在。这是 Ha Tinh 的早餐,通常在早上 6 点到 9 点之间食用,到了 10 点,大多数好的摊贩就卖完了。你可以在 Ha Tinh 市的 Nguyen Du 市场附近寻找,一碗的价格大约在 20,000–25,000 VND。市场北入口附近的街头摊位通常最稳定。

    Ke Che — 名字古怪的甜品

    “Ke che”很难定义。“Che”在越南语中指代一大类甜汤和布丁,但 ke che 是 Ha Tinh 当地的一种变体,使用填入绿豆沙的小糯米团 (nhan),浸泡在用棕榈糖调味的椰奶汤中。它与你在 Hue 或 Saigon 找到的 che 的不同之处在于,糯米团面团中混合了少量磨碎的木薯粉,这使得外层比纯糯米团更有嚼劲,口感更扎实。

    它在与 Banh Muot 相同的早市上出售,通常由同一个摊贩售卖,既可以作为甜点,也可以作为第二顿早餐——这里似乎没人对这种模糊的界定感到困扰。一份的价格约为 15,000 VND。不要指望有书面菜单;直接指着锅点餐即可。

    河内繁忙街头市场展示的新鲜农产品,色彩明亮。

    图片来源:Hồng Quang Official,来自 Pexels

    Chao Luon — 来自内陆地区的鳝鱼粥

    Ha Tinh 靠近 Huong Son 区的内陆地区与沿海城镇有着不同的饮食特征。稻田和河流意味着淡水鱼和鳝鱼是这里的主角。“Chao luon”——鳝鱼粥——是其中的佼佼者。鳝鱼经过清理,用姜黄和香茅腌制,然后炒熟,再拌入煮到几乎呈奶油状的稀米粥 (chao) 中。成品呈现出金黄色且香气四溢,上面撒上碎烤花生、新鲜香草和少许黑胡椒。

    如果没有当地人的指引,这道菜并不容易找到——它更像是家常菜和小餐馆的菜肴,而不是街头小吃。如果你在前往或离开 Pu Mat 国家公园的途中经过 Huong Son,可以向旅馆询问“quan chao luon”,通常会得到有用的指引。

    竹垫上盛放着新鲜香草、嫩牛肉片和鲜艳辣椒的诱人 Pho 碗。

    图片来源:FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫,来自 Pexels

    Banh Trang Phoi Sung — 膨化米纸零食

    这并非 Ha Tinh 独有——你在越南中部各地都能找到类似的版本——但当地的版本特别出色。“Banh trang phoi sung”是经过晒干后短暂油炸或烘烤的米纸饼,直到它们膨胀成轻盈、一触即碎的圆饼。在 Ha Tinh,摊贩会在上面撒上干虾酱、葱油和碎辣椒。它们被装在小袋子里在市场摊位和路边商店出售,价格约为 10,000–15,000 VND,如果你想在巴士上带几包,它们非常耐储存。

    关于在 Ha Tinh 市用餐的几点实用建议

    Ha Tinh 市很小,从大多数旅馆步行即可到达。Nguyen Du 市场是早间美食的主要中心——在早上 8 点前到达以获得最丰富的选择。市场的室内区域有一排固定摊位,但更好的摊贩往往是那些在东入口外人行道上摆放塑料凳的摊位。

    对于两餐之间的冰咖啡,Ha Tinh 有着浓厚的当地咖啡文化。这里的“Ca phe sua da”冲泡得很浓,带点苦味——比甜味更重的南部版本更接近 Hue 的风格。在当地商店,预计价格为 20,000–30,000 VND。

    如果你已经计划了包括 Hue 在内的越南中部沿海行程,Ha Tinh 位于其以北约 90 公里处——乘坐巴士或租用摩托车即可轻松到达。该省并未针对旅游业进行开发,这意味着价格公道,食物是为当地人而非游客烹制的。这正是它的意义所在。

    实用建议: Ha Tinh 市的大多数街头小吃摊只收现金;请携带小面额纸币。这里的早餐饮食文化开始得很早——如果你在上午 9 点之后才去寻找 Banh Muot,可能会扑空。Ha Tinh 市的住宿有限但足够;对于大多数行程而言,该省作为半天的美食中转站比作为过夜目的地更合适。