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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

夜色下的 Banh Nam:在 Hue 品尝地道平民蒸糕的好去处

Banh nam 是 Hue 最具特色的美食之一——扁平、香气四溢,并用香蕉叶包裹。以下是日落后品尝它的最佳去处。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Neon-lit street food stalls create a vibrant atmosphere at a bustling night market.
↑ Neon-lit street food stalls create a vibrant atmosphere at a bustling night market.Photo by Nguyễn Hoàng Văn on Pexels
Tags
#banh nam#hue#guide#food#street food#night food#hue cuisine
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最后更新 · Sep 13, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Hue 的美食文化直到夜幕降临、暑气消散时才真正苏醒。Banh nam 就是那种在晚上 9 点站在路边吃,比在任何空调餐厅里吃都要美味的食物。这是一种扁平的蒸米粉糕,上面铺着一层薄薄的碎虾仁和猪肉,然后用香蕉叶包裹起来。它是一种低调而精致的食物,反映了 Hue 悠久的皇家御膳传统,却又无需大声张扬。

    你吃到的究竟是什么

    Banh nam 与 "banh loc" 和 "banh beo" 同属 Hue 的小型蒸米糕家族,统称为 "banh"(这是对糕点和饺子的统称)。它的米浆比 banh loc 更薄、更软——蒸熟后几乎呈半透明状——而香蕉叶的作用不仅仅是包裹:它赋予了糕点一种淡淡的青草香,如果换成塑料或锡纸,这种香气就会消失。配料通常是虾干,有时会加一片薄薄的肥猪肉或一点绿豆泥。淋上几滴 nuoc cham(蘸酱),再放上一小片新鲜辣椒,这就是整道菜的全部。

    分量刻意做得很少——每份两到三个,每个约 5,000–8,000 VND。你可以多点几份,慢慢品尝。这才是精髓所在。

    夜幕降临后的去处

    Banh Nam Ba Cu — Nguyen Binh Khiem

    这是当地人首推的地方。摊位设在 Nguyen Binh Khiem 街上,距离 Dong Ba Market 区域不远,从下午 5 点左右开始营业,直到售罄——通常在晚上 9:30 或 10 点左右。经营这家摊位的老板娘在这个街角蒸糕已经超过二十年了。这里只有简陋的塑料凳、一个用来保持叶子湿润的小木炭炉,而且没有英文菜单。直接指着食物并比划手指即可。六个糕配上 nuoc cham 大约 40,000 VND。如果你想品尝全套口味,请在晚上 8 点前到达;她卖得最快的是肥猪肉口味的。

    Quan Banh Nam — Chi Lang Street

    Chi Lang 是 Hue 适合深夜觅食的街道之一,这里有两三家相邻的摊位,除了 banh nam,还供应 banh beo 和 banh loc。靠近 Phu Cat 十字路口的摊位营业时间通常最长——工作日营业至晚上 10:30 左右,周末有时会到午夜。这里的价格略高(每个 8,000 VND),但 nuoc cham 的味道明显更好——鱼露味更浓,比游客区版本的甜味更少。点一份混合拼盘:一半 banh nam,一半 banh loc,对比一下它们的口感差异。

    Dong Ba Night Market 周边

    Dong Ba 市场本身关门较早,但沿着市场东侧延伸的街道——特别是靠近河边的 Tran Hung Dao 路段——从下午 6 点左右开始会出现一排推车摊贩。这些摊位的品质不太稳定(摊位会轮换,摊主来来去去),但如果你正在 Hue 的河边散步,这些地方最容易偶遇。品质参差不齐;寻找地上香蕉叶废料最多的摊位——那通常是销量最大的,意味着批次更新鲜。

    一张制作传统越南 banh tet 的特写照片,展示了文化工艺。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Vietnam Tri Duong Photographer

    关于温度的说明

    Banh nam 应该趁热吃。不是滚烫,而是温热。刚蒸好的一批糕点在叶子里静置几分钟后再上桌,那是风味融合的最佳时刻。如果摊主从堆放了超过二十分钟的糕点堆里拿出一个,叶子会变得潮湿,米粉层也会变得软烂。这一点比任何其他因素都重要。在好的摊位,摊主会小批量现蒸;你会看到竹蒸笼不断地堆叠和轮换。如果摊位上只有一堆冷冰冰的预包装糕点,且没有正在使用的蒸笼,那就换一家吧。

    热闹的夜市场景,越南食品摊位提供各种当地小吃和美味佳肴。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 HONG SON

    交通指南

    这三个地点都在距离 Pham Ngu Lao / Le Loi 走廊附近的 Hue 中心酒店群 2 公里范围内。从市中心乘坐 xe om(摩托车出租车)到 Chi Lang 街大约需要 20,000–30,000 VND。如果你更喜欢用手机叫车,Grab 和 Be 在 Hue 都可以使用。从 Trang Tien 桥步行到 Dong Ba 周边大约需要十分钟。

    Hue 的城市规模很小,一个晚上完全可以涵盖 banh nam、在 Nguyen Cong Tru 的深夜摊位来一碗 "bun bo hue",以及中间穿插一杯 ca phe sua da ——对于在城市停留一两晚的游客来说,这是一个合理的行程。

    实用贴士

    大多数 banh nam 摊位只收现金;请准备好小额钞票(5,000 和 10,000 VND 面额)。这道菜本身不含麸质,但不是素食——虾和猪肉是核心配料,不可或缺。高峰时段为晚上 6 点至 8 点 30 分;如果去得太晚,好的摊位可能会售罄。