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大叻的鸡杂蒸粉卷传统上是一道早餐，但 Tay Ho 街的实际情况远比这复杂。
最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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Da Lat 拥有独特的寒冷气候饮食文化，对进食时间有着极高的要求。“Banh uot long ga”——将软糯的蒸米粉皮铺在调味鸡杂上，撒上炸红葱头、新鲜香草，再配上一碗清淡的蘸汁——就是那种当地人只在特定时间享用的美食。如果时间不对，你可能会发现店门紧闭，或者只能吃到放了太久的干硬粉皮。
这道菜的核心是鸡杂：鸡胗、鸡肝和鸡肠，洗净后加入柠檬草、大蒜和少许鱼露翻炒至熟。将其铺在“banh uot”上——这与你在 Hanoi 吃到的 banh cuon 是同一种薄而滑的米粉皮，但在这里它们被铺平，厚度稍厚，且带有蒸笼的余温。旁边会配上一把炸红葱头和一小碗清澈的蘸汁，味道清淡、微甜、带点胡椒味。最后点缀上 Rau ram（越南香菜）和几根豆芽。
鸡杂是整道菜的灵魂。如果你对内脏心存芥蒂，也请务必尝试一下——鸡胗口感清脆，而处理得当的鸡肠吃起来比任何奇怪的味道都更像浓缩的鸡肉鲜味。它更像是精美的熟食，而不是你想象中那种难以接受的内脏。
Da Lat 大多数正宗的“banh uot long ga”摊位都聚集在靠近 Xuan Huong 湖北缘的 Tay Ho 街及其周边。这并不是那种游客扎堆的美食街，而是一条住宅小巷，几家低调的摊位按各自的节奏营业。Google 地图可以带你找到这条街，而你的嗅觉和蒸笼的蒸汽声会带你找到正确的摊位。
最老牌的摊位位于街区中部，标志是一块手写招牌和人行道上摆放的四五张塑料桌。这里没有英文菜单。指指隔壁桌点的东西，你就能顺利点餐。
图片来源：Quang Nguyen Vinh，来自 Pexels
当地人会在早上 6:30 到 9:30 之间吃“banh uot long ga”。这是米粉皮最新鲜的时候——蒸笼从黎明前就开始运作，每一批粉皮都是现做现卖。这段时间内，鸡杂也是小批量现炒的，所以不会出现放在盖好的锅里反复加热的情况。
一份大约 25,000 到 35,000 VND。再配上一杯 Vietnamese iced coffee 或隔壁摊位的一小杯热“ca phe sua da（炼乳咖啡）”，总价不到 50,000 VND，这就是 Da Lat 最棒的早餐之一。
早上 10 点以后，米粉皮冷却后会开始变硬。鸡杂会被二次加热，这会使其口感变柴。虽然依然可以食用，但已经不是那道美味了。
少数摊位会营业到中午或刚过中午，主要是因为 Da Lat 湖边有足够的午间散步者维持生意。如果你在深夜到达且还没吃饭，午餐时间也能找到“banh uot long ga”，但请务必确认蒸笼是否还在冒气。如果摊主是从盖着的盘子里取餐且没有蒸汽，那这些粉皮已经是几个小时前做的了。
午餐价格相同。质量差距是客观存在的，但如果你正好饿了且路过，吃一顿也无妨。
图片来源：Linh Tran，来自 Pexels
在 Da Lat，这不属于晚餐范畴。Tay Ho 街的摊位在午后就会收摊。到了晚上，这条街会弥漫着“banh mi”和夜市摊位烤玉米的香气。如果你在 Da Lat 寻找深夜晚餐，那需要去别处寻找。
有些游客会将“banh uot long ga”与城里其他地方出现的夜间鸡杂串摊混淆——那是另一种饮食类别，值得探索，但并不是同一回事。
Tay Ho 街距离 Da Lat 夜市约 1.2 公里，从大多数市中心住宿地步行不到 20 分钟即可到达。如果你想在周末不用排队就能坐下，请在早上 8 点前到达——周六和周日上午，摊位会有很多当地人光顾。请携带现金，这里不接受刷卡。如果摊主额外提供一小盘“cha gio”，一定要答应。