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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hoi-an

Hoi An最好吃的Cao Lau:当地人真正去哪吃

Cao lau是Hoi An最具代表性的美食——劲道的面条、五香猪肉和酥脆的面包丁,这种独特的风味在别处很难吃到。以下是当地人推荐的品尝地点。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Street vendor cart in Ho Chi Minh City with stacks of plastic cups and bustling street in the background.
↑ Street vendor cart in Ho Chi Minh City with stacks of plastic cups and bustling street in the background.Photo by Vuong on Pexels
Tags
#cao lau#hoi an#best of#food#noodles#street food#local eats
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    "Cao lau" 是一道与特定地点紧密相连的料理,在其他任何地方品尝它,都会让人觉得“不对味”。厚实、微韧的米面,切片的五香猪肉,一把酥脆的炸面丁,再加上新鲜香草——这碗面几乎不需要汤底,只需碗底那一勺浓郁的肉汁即可。当地传说,这种面条之所以拥有独特的口感和淡淡的草木灰香,是因为使用了散布在古镇各处的古老占婆(Cham)水井中的水,特别是Nguyen Thi Minh Khai街附近的Ba Le井。无论这是美食科学还是民间传说,在其他地方制作的面条确实无法复刻这里的味道。

    以下是真正值得去吃的地方。

    Phuong Cao Lau — 行业标杆

    大多数在 Hoi An 长大的当地人首先会提到的就是Phuong。这家店位于 26 Thai Phien 的一间狭窄店屋里,这条侧街比主要的旅游干道安静得多。她制作cao lau(까오러우 / 高楼面 / カオラウ)已有数十年,这里的猪肉切得很厚,五香入味,且带着烤架留下的焦香。面丁是自家手工制作的,而非市售包装品,这一点至关重要:它们能保持更久的酥脆感,不会在汤汁中迅速变软。

    一碗价格在 35,000–40,000 VND 左右。营业时间大致为早上7点到中午;卖完即止。如果你想有位子坐,请在上午9点前到达。

    Cao Lau Thanh — 当地人的早餐站

    在 26 Thai Phien(同一条街上,往里走几步,没错,就是那条街),Thanh是一家规模较小的店,塑料凳子摆到了人行道上。这里没那么“上镜”,但更显质朴。面条与猪肉的比例稍微偏向面条,这其实是许多Hoi An(호이안 / 会安 / ホイアン)老居民喜欢的吃法——猪肉只是点缀,而非主角。

    价格约为 30,000–35,000 VND。营业时间为早上6:30至上午11点。仅收现金。

    Cao Lau Ba Vy — 上午晚些时候的选择

    对于赶不上早高峰的人来说,位于 8 Nhi Trung 的Ba Vy会一直营业到下午1点左右。这里的汤汁颜色略深,口味偏咸——有些人很喜欢,有些人则觉得偏重。面丁明显比大多数地方更酥脆,如果你吃得快,口感会非常好。座位比较拥挤,但有遮阳。

    价格:35,000–45,000 VND,取决于分量大小。如果你有需要,可以要求加量猪肉。

    Hoi An灯火辉煌的河流与街道的震撼航拍图,捕捉了充满活力的夜晚景象。

    图片来源:Pexels上的Vietnam Hidden Light

    Cao Lau Khong Gian Xanh — 环境舒适,价格合理

    这家店位于古镇内,靠近 587 Tran Phu,坐落在一间修复后的木质店屋里,自然采光良好。它同时服务于当地人和游客,品质依然保持水准——面条劲道,香草新鲜。别指望这里有街边摊的超低价格:一碗面在 50,000–65,000 VND 之间,但如果你想找个舒适的地方坐下用餐,这里确实是个不错的选择。

    营业时间为早上7点至晚上9点,对于行程不规律的游客来说,这是最方便的选择。

    早市摊位 — Cho Hoi An

    位于 Tran Quy Cap 的室内市场里,有几家cao lau摊位聚集在后方的食品区。质量因摊位而异;寻找那些排队人潮中穿着工作服而非拿着相机的当地人。这里的面条通常比专门店的稍细,香草种类丰富——紫苏、豆芽,有时还会加入当地的空心菜作为配菜。

    这里的价格是最便宜的:25,000–30,000 VND。营业时间为早上6点至上午11点。请准备好零钱。

    越南Pho的特写,配有香草和香料,展示了传统的餐点摆盘。

    图片来源:Pexels上的Pew Nguyen

    什么是一碗好的Cao Lau

    以下几点可以将正宗的cao lau与平庸之作区分开来:

    • 面条口感:应该劲道而不粘牙。如果吃起来像煮过头的意大利面,那就不对了。
    • 面丁:应该是用同样的米浆手工制作的,而不是普通的炸脆饼。敲一下——应该听起来空洞且酥脆。
    • 猪肉:切得薄厚适中,方便用筷子夹起,外表应有明显的五香色泽。颜色苍白的猪肉说明腌制不足。
    • 汤汁:只需刚好润湿碗底即可。Cao lau不是汤面。如果碗里汤水过多,那绝对不是正宗的。

    避雷建议

    沿着 Nguyen Thai Hoc 靠近日本廊桥(Japanese Covered Bridge)那一排餐厅看起来很方便,且人流量大。其中一些也卖cao lau,但碗通常做得很大(为了证明高价合理),面条有时泡得太久,面丁也常是袋装的。在某些地方,一碗面要价 80,000–120,000 VND,你支付的是地段费,而不是面条钱。如果你看到一张印着照片的英文塑封菜单,上面把cao lau和 "banh mi" 及春卷放在一起,请直接走开。

    实用贴士

    Cao lau是一道早餐料理——大多数好店在下午1点前就关门了,最好的店在上午10点前就卖光了。在当地摊位吃一碗扎实的cao lau,预算在 30,000–50,000 VND 之间;任何超过65,000 VND的价格都应该有明确的理由(更好的环境、更长的营业时间)。如果你只是去Thai Phien吃东西,不需要购买古镇门票——那条街位于门票收费区之外。