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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hanoi

Bun Moc:值得更多关注的河内低调米粉汤

深入了解 Bun Moc——河内的一种猪肉丸木耳米粉汤,涵盖其历史、地区差异以及如何像当地人一样点餐。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Delicious bowl of Vietnamese pho with pork and fresh vegetables, ready to enjoy.
↑ Delicious bowl of Vietnamese pho with pork and fresh vegetables, ready to enjoy.Photo by FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels
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#bun moc#deep dive#guide#food#hanoi#noodle soup#pork#street food#vietnamese cuisine
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最后更新 · Sep 6, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Hanoi 有许多名声更响亮的米粉汤。Pho 占据了旅游流量,bun thang 深受美食作家青睐,bun rieu 则是社交媒体上的常客。而“Bun moc”——这种配有木耳和竹笋的猪肉丸米粉汤——大多是街坊邻里的日常餐食。但这恰恰是它值得一尝的原因。

    什么是 Bun Moc

    这个名字拆解开来很简单:“bun”是指圆形的米粉,“moc”指的是“cha moc”,即定义了这道菜的手工猪肉丸。汤底是用猪骨(猪蹄和颈骨)熬制三到四个小时而成的,在最后一小时加入干香菇。其口感比 pho 更为清淡:没有八角、没有肉桂,也没有浓郁的香料味。只有纯净、微甜的猪骨汤,以及来自蘑菇的泥土芬芳。

    一碗标准的 Bun Moc 通常包含:

    • Cha moc — 口感顺滑、Q弹的猪肉丸,有时是手工揉制的,有时是从肉卷上切下的
    • Gio lua — 蒸猪肉香肠,切成圆片
    • Moc nhi — 切碎的木耳,泡发后切丝
    • Mang — 竹笋,煮熟后切丝,带有一丝淡淡的苦味
    • Hanh la — 切碎的葱花和少许新鲜香菜
    • Bun — 柔软的圆米粉,通常比 pho 的米粉缠得更紧

    旁边通常会放一小碟 mam tom(发酵虾酱)。使用它是可选的,但完全不加会改变这道菜的风味。在汤里溶解一小勺虾酱,正是 Bun Moc 标志性的咸鲜与微甜对比的来源。

    源自河内家庭厨房的美味

    Bun Moc 没有 pho 那样的神话色彩。没有殖民时期的起源争论,也没有南北方的身份认同之争。撰写河内美食的饮食历史学家通常将其归类为家庭料理——这是家庭在周末有骨头熬汤时会做的一道菜,填补了 pho(餐厅食物)和日常的 bun rieu(蟹肉米粉汤)(街头小吃)之间的空白。

    它在河内(Hanoi)饮食文化中最亲近的亲戚是 bun thang,两者都遵循清澈的猪肉和鸡肉汤底逻辑,以及细致的配菜美学。但 bun thang 的制作过程以繁琐著称——需要十几种配料、虾干、蛋皮丝等——而 bun moc 则相对宽容。一位优秀的厨师只需五种食材和一个悠闲的下午,就能做出一碗地道的 Bun Moc。这种亲民性使其在餐厅文化转向更具“上镜感”的菜肴时,依然在家庭厨房中得以保留。

    蘑菇元素并非装饰。干香菇(在越南杂货店称为 nam huong)在汤中发酵,释放出谷氨酸,在不增加厚重感的情况下加深了汤底的鲜味。这与日本高汤(dashi)的鲜味逻辑相同,只是用越南的厨房逻辑呈现了出来。

    越南街头市场摊位,供应传统菜肴。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Tuan Vy

    地区差异

    河内(标准版)

    北部版本是基准:汤底清澈,调味克制,配有 mam tom,竹笋是主要的蔬菜风味。Cha moc 的质地顺滑,不粗糙。香肠是 gio lua,色泽洁白,味道温和。

    西贡(Saigon)改良版

    在 Saigon,Bun Moc 往往倾向于 hu tieu 的风格。汤底变得更甜,有时会加入冰糖,配菜也更丰富——豆芽、新鲜香草、青柠。Mam tom 通常被更甜的发酵虾酱取代,或者完全不加。这是否是一种改进,取决于你的口味和偏好。

    中部沿海

    在 Da Nang 和 Hue(顺化),猪肉丸汤与 bun bo hue 的界限变得模糊。一些厨师会制作一种带有柠檬草风味汤底和混合猪肉配料的改良版。在中部很难找到纯粹的 Bun Moc——大多数厨师更倾向于当地的饮食习惯。

    如何点餐

    走进一家 Bun Moc 店,通常有两个选择:to(大份)或 nho(小份),价格根据地区不同在 30,000 到 55,000 VND 之间。在河内老城区,大份大约 45,000–50,000 VND。在居民区的路边摊,同样大小只需 30,000–35,000 VND。

    以下是点餐小贴士:

    1. 坐下后,服务员通常会确认你要 to 还是 nho。
    2. 如果想要更多蛋白质,可以要求 them gio(额外加猪肉香肠)。
    3. Mam tom 会作为小碟上桌——先在汤里溶解半茶匙,然后再决定是否添加更多。
    4. 竹笋的味道因人而异;如果你不喜欢那种苦味,点餐时可以说 khong mang(不要竹笋)。
    5. Bun Moc 本身不是一道以辣味为主的菜。桌上的辣椒和醋是供你调味的,但原本的汤底设计并非为了追求辛辣。

    一碗令人垂涎的越南牛肉河粉,配有新鲜香草和美味汤底,盛在白色碗中。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫

    在哪里品尝

    Bun Moc Ba Duc — 河内 位于 Dong Da 区的一家老店,因其手工揉制的 cha moc 和清澈的汤底而深受当地人好评。竹笋经过预处理,去除了大部分苦味。标准碗价格约为 40,000 VND。早上 7 点开始营业,通常 10:30 就卖完了。

    Bun Moc 79 Tran Nhat Duat — 河内老城区 对于住在还剑湖(Hoan Kiem Lake)附近的游客来说更方便。汤底比 Ba Duc 的版本稍微咸一点,有些人更喜欢这种口味。Gio lua 给得很大方。价格约为 45,000–50,000 VND。

    Quan Bun Moc 369 — 西贡(Saigon),第3区 这是西贡风味的诠释:汤底更甜,配有全套香草和豆芽。如果你想看看南部是如何改良这道菜的,这里是不错的选择。加料后价格约为 50,000–60,000 VND。

    实用提示

    在河内,Bun Moc 主要是一道早餐和午餐早期的菜肴——大多数专门的店铺在早上 6 点左右开门,中午就关门了。如果你在上午 11 点之后到达,尤其是在较小的摊位,汤底可能已经快没了,cha moc 也可能卖光了。请尽早前往,否则可能会面临吃不到的风险。