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  3. 大叻的 Nem Nuong:值得寻觅的巷弄美味
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · da-lat

大叻的 Nem Nuong:值得寻觅的巷弄美味

大叻的烤猪肉卷有着独特的个性——更甜的蘸酱、高地香草,以及大多数游客都会擦肩而过的几家家庭式小店。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Traditional incense burning with pots in a Vietnamese temple setting, Ho Chi Minh City.
↑ Traditional incense burning with pots in a Vietnamese temple setting, Ho Chi Minh City.Photo by maxed. RAW on Pexels
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#nem nuong da lat#da lat#guide#food#street food#grilled pork#local eats
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    When to Order Com Lam in Sapa: Morning, Lunch, or Night

    Da Lat 对 "nem nuong"(炭烤猪肉卷,配以米纸和新鲜蔬菜)有着自己的诠释,这与大多数人熟知的芽庄风格明显不同。这里的蘸酱偏甜,选用的香草取材于高地生长的植物,而品尝它的最佳去处往往不在游客密集的繁华地段。

    大叻 Nem Nuong 的独特之处

    芽庄版本的 nem nuong 通常以发酵猪肉为基底,蘸酱口感更尖锐、酸爽。而 Da Lat 的 nem nuong 则更加温和、香气四溢。猪肉在烧烤前会加入少许糖,这使得外皮在炭火烘烤下呈现出微焦的焦糖质感。蘸酱通常是花生口味的 nuoc cham 变体,质地更浓稠,甜味更明显,有时还会配上一勺 "mam nem"(发酵凤尾鱼酱),供喜欢重口味的食客选择。

    猪肉卷是在餐桌上现包的:一张用蒸汽软化的干米纸,放入一根烤猪肉卷、薄片 "cha lua"(越南猪肉香肠)、黄瓜、青香蕉、杨桃,以及一小堆随季节更替的高地香草。亲手包裹正是这道美食体验的一部分。

    去哪里寻找正宗美味

    Quan Nem Nuong Huong Rung — Hoang Dieu 巷

    当你避开游客区的推荐,向当地人打听时,他们一定会指引你来这里。它位于 Hoang Dieu 街的一条巷子里,距离路口约 80 米,靠近与 Bui Thi Xuan 的交叉口。招牌是手绘的,如果走得太快很容易错过。一份套餐——六根 nem nuong 卷、米纸、香草和蘸酱——每人约 65,000–75,000 VND。营业时间大约是 10:00 到 14:00,以及 16:30 到 20:30。晚餐时段请尽早前往,因为经常会卖光。

    炭火烤架就在入口处,所以你还没看到招牌就能闻到香味。店主是一位六十多岁的女士,经营这家店已经二十多年了,她坚持亲自烧烤。她话不多,但猪肉的品质始终如一——口感紧实,带有纯净的烟熏味,一点也不油腻。

    Ba Thanh Nem Nuong — Phan Dinh Phung 侧街

    这是一个规模较小、更随意的摊位,位于大叻市场以南两个街区,隐藏在与 Phan Dinh Phung 平行的一条窄巷中。只有塑料凳,最多四张桌子。他们除了 nem nuong 外还供应 "banh hoi"(细米粉片),这在大叻并不常见,如果你没试过这种组合,非常值得一尝。价格也差不多,每份套餐约 60,000–70,000 VND。营业时间:大约 07:00 到 13:00。这是一家早餐和午餐店,不要指望晚上能吃到。

    这里的香草拼盘特别棒——他们自己就在屋后种植了一些蔬菜,你会吃到在任何预包装食品中都找不到的品种。

    Co Tam — Truong Cong Dinh,靠近夜市

    这家店比前两家稍微显眼一些——它位于 Truong Cong Dinh,步行即可到达夜市——但它并没有过度迎合游客,价格依然合理。这里的 nem nuong 套餐为 80,000 VND,并附带一小碗清汤。店面大约能容纳二十人,18:00 之后很快就会坐满。如果巷子里的店关门或客满,这里是一个很好的备选。

    Co Tam 的蘸酱是这三家中口味最甜的,有些人可能会觉得偏甜。你可以要求单独提供 mam nem,然后根据自己的口味进行调配。

    越南大叻夜市里正在烹饪传统越南菜的老妇人。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 LUC PH@M

    如何点餐及注意事项

    Nem nuong 是一顿需要慢条斯理享受的共享餐食。所有食材都是分开提供的,你需要自己动手包裹每一个肉卷。包裹方式没有对错之分,但通常的做法是:将软化的米纸平铺,放上一根 nem nuong 卷、一片 cha lua、一条黄瓜、一小片青香蕉或杨桃以增加酸味,再放上几片香草叶。卷的时候不要太紧——太紧会把米纸撑破——然后蘸上酱汁食用。

    大多数店家都默认你知道怎么吃。如果你是第一次尝试,观察一下隔壁桌三十秒,你很快就会学会。

    这三家店的人均消费都在 60,000–80,000 VND 左右。它们都不接受刷卡,请准备好小额现金。

    胡志明市繁忙街道上的烧烤摊贩。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Tuan Vy

    实用贴士

    这三家店的营业时间都不太固定,一旦卖完就会关门,这往往比标明的关门时间要早得多。建议午餐时段在 11:00–12:00 前往,晚餐时段则在 17:00 左右。由于大叻海拔较高,在凉爽的天气里,炭火烟雾会让人感觉更明显——尤其是这些几乎完全露天的巷弄小店,所以请根据天气情况穿衣。