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西贡圣母大教堂:胡志明市中心的法式殖民地标 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · south · ho-chi-minh-city

西贡圣母大教堂:胡志明市中心的法式殖民地标

西贡圣母大教堂多年来一直被脚手架包裹,但教堂前的广场依然是游览第一郡殖民时期建筑的绝佳起点。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 15, 20266 min read
Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica in Ho Chi Minh City surrounded by scaffolding during renovation.
↑ Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica in Ho Chi Minh City surrounded by scaffolding during renovation.Photo by Quang Vuong on Pexels
Tags
#ho chi minh city#notre dame#colonial#saigon#architecture#district 1#walking tour
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    Saigon的圣母大教堂是这座城市被拍摄次数最多的地标之一,却也是最难亲近的——自2017年起,一场全面修缮让它就此关闭至今。不过这并无大碍。教堂前的广场依然值得专程前来,周边街区步行可及,串联起第一郡最精华的一批殖民时期建筑。

    建筑本身:马赛砖砌成的广场地标

    教堂建于1880年竣工,是越南南部现存最古老的法式殖民建筑之一。它在同类教堂中的独特之处在于建材:全部六百万块砖均从Marseille直接运来,而非就地取材。法国工程师的考量是,当地烧制的砖块在热带气候下容易褪色。这些Marseille砖呈深赭红色,历经近150年依然色泽如初。

    双钟楼高达58米,于1895年建成,比主殿晚了约十五年。每座塔内悬挂四口铜钟——钟声至今仍会响起,至少在修缮脚手架让维护工作变得不切实际之前是如此。教堂坐落于法国人昔日所称的Pigneau de Behaine广场,今名Cong xa Paris(巴黎广场),位于Dong Khoi街的尽头。

    内部空间——拱顶天花、原版彩色玻璃窗、约1200人的容纳规模——自修缮启动后便对游客关闭。截至2025年中,尚无确认的重开日期,不过钟楼的结构性工程看来正在推进之中。

    修缮现场实况

    不要指望能走进去。脚手架将正立面完全遮蔽,外围围栏也将游客隔在入口之外。这座在照片中颇为壮观的建筑,眼下的真实面貌是大片绿色防护网和金属支架。

    话虽如此,脚手架并不会让这次到访毫无意义——只是改变了你来这里的方式。你是为了广场、街区和这段步行而来,而不是为了参观内部。

    当下最佳拍摄角度

    站在Dong Khoi街上,距广场约80米的南侧位置,用长焦镜头回望教堂。从这个角度,脚手架会被广场边缘的树线压缩进背景,双塔轮廓清晰可辨。清晨7:30前光线柔和,行人寥寥。9点之后,旅行团便开始陆续涌入。

    另一个选择是从紧邻的邮政局上层楼面俯瞰,可以将教堂双塔与第一郡天际线一同纳入镜头(详见下文)。

    胡志明市市政厅的标志性景观,胡志明雕像矗立其前。

    摄影:Thang Do,图片来源:Pexels

    与邮政局联游

    西贡中央邮政局与教堂毗邻,共享同一广场。邮政局对游客开放且免费入场,与教堂不同,它至今仍在正常运营——真的有人在这里寄信。内部空间是全市保存最完好的殖民时期建筑之一:桶形拱顶大厅、原版瓷砖地面、两侧端墙上的旧Saigon手绘地图,以及沿两侧排列的木制柜台。

    该建筑由Gustave Eiffel的设计事务所操刀(尽管Eiffel本人的参与程度仍有争议),于1891年竣工。在里面待上二十分钟。从入口处的摊贩买张明信片寄出去——它最终大概率会送到收件人手中。

    前往统一宫的步行路线

    从巴黎广场步行至统一宫约1.2公里,沿途经过第一郡保存最完整的法式街景。

    沿Le Duan大道向西走。这条大道宽阔、绿树成荫,是法国人仿照宏伟城市大道模式规划而成。向左走约500米后,你会路过美国领事馆,再往前是旧法国总督府(现为政府宾馆,不对外开放)。如想绕道,植物园入口就在这段路附近。

    统一宫位于这段步行的终点。门票40,000 VND。这座建筑取代了原诺罗敦宫,于1960年代以现代主义风格专门重建,与你一路走来所见的殖民时期建筑截然不同——这种反差正是这段步行的趣味所在。地下战情室和屋顶直升机停机坪是内部的两大亮点。

    从教堂步行至统一宫全程:若在邮政局和统一宫内部都认真游览,预留2.5至3小时为宜。

    夜幕下Ben Thanh市场灯火通明的正立面,长曝光拍摄,动感十足。

    摄影:Thien Le Duy,图片来源:Pexels

    交通与时间建议

    教堂地址为第一郡Cong xa Paris 1号。从Saigon市中心任意地点打Grab(摩托车或轿车)前往均可,从Ben Thanh市场或Bui Vien出发通常不超过30,000–50,000 VND。Dong Khoi街旁的小街上有摩托车停车位。

    工作日上午人流最少。周日上午会有当地天主教信徒在广场参加露天弥撒,如果你想亲眼见证这座建筑在关闭期间依然被积极使用的方式,这颇为值得一看——但届时人会相当密集。

    步行结束后,沿Dong Khoi街向南朝河边走,沿途有不少条件不错的咖啡馆。若想喝一杯更接地气的,教堂东侧的Nam Ky Khoi Nghia一带小街上有不少小咖啡馆,30,000 VND以内就能喝到一杯"ca phe sua da"。

    常见问题

    Saigon圣母大教堂关闭了多久?

    圣母大教堂自2017年起因全面结构修缮而关闭。截至2025年中,尚无确认的重开日期,不过钟楼的施工进度看来正在推进。脚手架将正立面完全遮蔽,外围围栏将游客隔在入口之外。内部空间——拱顶天花、原版彩色玻璃窗、约1200人座位——在此期间全程无法进入。

    拍摄Saigon圣母大教堂的最佳时间是什么时候?

    建议在早上7:30前抵达,光线柔和且人流极少。在Dong Khoi街距广场约80米的南侧站定,用长焦镜头回望教堂——从这个角度,脚手架会隐入树线背后,两座58米高的双塔轮廓清晰可辨。9点之后旅行团开始到来。紧邻的西贡中央邮政局上层楼面提供另一视角,可俯瞰巴黎广场全景。

    Saigon圣母大教堂建于何时?其建筑特色是什么?

    教堂于1880年竣工,是越南南部现存最古老的法式殖民建筑之一。其最大特色在于建材:全部六百万块砖均从Marseille运来,而非就地取材,原因是法国工程师认为当地砖块在热带气候下容易褪色。这些Marseille砖呈深赭红色,近150年后色泽依然鲜亮。双钟楼建于1895年,比主殿晚了约十五年。

    实用信息

    教堂内部仍处于关闭状态,且无确认重开日期;若行程有赖于进入教堂内部,请提前核实最新情况。邮政局开放时间:周一至周六上午7时至晚上7时,周日上午8时至下午6时。统一宫每日开放,时间为上午8时至下午4时,午休11:30至13:00闭馆。