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Pho:关于越南国菜你需要知道的一切 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all · hanoi

Pho:关于越南国菜你需要知道的一切

米粉、骨汤、牛肉或鸡肉,再加上一把香料——Pho看似简单,实则千变万化。以下是它成为越南最具标志性美食的原因。

By the Wayfarer teamMar 12, 20266 min read
A vibrant alleyway in Ho Chi Minh City adorned with Vietnamese flags and lively surroundings.
↑ A vibrant alleyway in Ho Chi Minh City adorned with Vietnamese flags and lively surroundings.Photo by Theodore Nguyen on Pexels
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#pho#vietnamese cuisine#noodle soup#beef pho#chicken pho#street food#hanoi food#ho chi minh city food#broth#traditional food
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    什么是Pho?

    [Pho](/posts/pho-vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)-noodle-soup-guide)是一种汤粉——它是越南的国菜,也是大多数游客落地24小时内就会品尝的美食。它的基本配方是:将扁平的米粉("banh pho")盛入清澈且充满香料的肉汤中,上面铺上切成薄片的牛肉或鸡肉丝、葱和香菜。你可以自己添加调料:辣椒酱、青柠、鱼露、鲜辣椒和黑胡椒。

    无论是早餐、午餐、晚餐,还是凌晨3点,你都能找到pho。汤底是这道菜的灵魂——由牛骨或鸡骨与肉桂、八角、草果、生姜和红葱头熬制而成。一碗好汤需要12个小时以上的精心撇沫和火候控制。而一碗糟糕的汤尝起来就像洗碗水。

    牛肉pho("pho bo")和鸡肉pho("pho ga")占据主导地位,但你也会看到"pho cuon"(鲜米纸卷)、"pho ap chao"(炒粉)、"pho kho"(干拌粉,无汤),以及一些地方特色,比如Cao Bang的鸭肉pho或北部山区小镇的烤猪肉pho。

    南北差异:香草盘的分歧

    在Hanoi,端上来的粉里只有米粉、肉、汤和葱——仅此而已。没有配菜的香草盘。如果你想要额外的配料,需要单独要。北方风格是极简主义的,专注于汤底,有时甚至显得有些朴素。

    在Ho Chi Minh City和南方,每碗粉都会配上一大盘生香草:豆芽、九层塔、香菜、刺芹("ngo gai")、青柠角和辣椒。你可以自己把它们加进去。南方的pho更甜,汤底通常会加一点糖,吃法也更具DIY色彩。

    两者没有“谁更好”之分。它们代表了不同的饮食哲学。Hanoi捍卫汤底的纯粹性。而Saigon则让你自由定制。

    起源:Hanoi、Nam Dinh与O Quan Chuong理论

    我们所熟知的Pho出现于20世纪初。关于它的起源有两个相互竞争的说法:

    1. Nam Dinh:据说Van Cu村(现位于Ninh Binh (닌빈 / 宁平 / ニンビン)省Nam Dong公社)的Co家族创造了pho,并在Nam Dinh纺织厂开业时将其发扬光大,吸引了那些需要廉价、饱腹饭菜的工人们。

    2. Hanoi:许多历史学家指出,在法国殖民时期,Hanoi老城区的O Quan Chuong城门附近,当地人收集法国殖民者厨房废弃的牛骨,并将它们熬制成汤。

    最早的书面记载出现在范廷琥1827年编纂的汉越词典《日用常谈》中,书中列出了“玉酥饼”(ngoc to binh),并带有Nom(喃字)注释“𩛄普𤙭”——即“banh pho (쌀국수 / 越南河粉 / フォー) bo”。但这指的是米粉本身,而不是完整的汤粉。

    “pho”这个词首次出现在印刷品中是在1930年的《越南辞典》(Viet Nam tu dien)里:“一种用细面条和牛肉煮成的食物。”鸡肉pho出现于1939年,当时Hanoi每周有两天(周一和周五)禁止销售牛肉。摊贩们要么改用鸡肉,要么关门歇业。鸡肉pho就这样流传了下来。

    街头小贩过去常以悠扬的调子叫卖“pho day, pho o!”。小说家阮公欢在1913年写道:“住在Hang Hai街8号……偶尔在晚上,我会吃pho。每碗2 xu(苏),有的3 xu,5 xu。”

    Hanoi Montage

    图片由Cheong提供。 原始上传者为英文维基百科的Cheong Kok Chun,来自Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)

    汤底里有什么(以及为什么它很重要)

    传统的pho汤底由牛骨或鸡骨、水和香料组成。制作技巧如下:

    1. 初次沸煮:将骨头放入冷水中,煮沸后沥干。这能去除杂质,防止汤底浑浊和产生异味。
    2. 二次熬煮:换上清水,放入同样的骨头。加入烤焦的生姜和洋葱。大火煮沸后,转为微火慢炖。
    3. 撇沫:不断撇去浮沫。加入少许冷水,再次撇沫,重复此过程直到汤底变得清澈。
    4. 香料:草果、八角、桂皮、香菜籽、丁香,有时还会加入虾干(味精出现之前的原始提鲜剂)。每个摊贩都对自己的精确配比守口如瓶。
    5. 时间:12-24小时的文火慢炖能从软骨中提取胶原蛋白,从骨髓中提取钙质,并使香料的精油充分溶解。

    汤底应该是清澈的,而不是浑浊的。带有骨头的鲜甜、香料的芬芳,并通过鱼露和一小撮冰糖达到味道的平衡。

    营养成分分析

    一碗pho能为你提供:

    • 蛋白质:15-25克,来自牛肉或鸡肉
    • 碳水化合物:40-60克,来自米粉
    • 钙和胶原蛋白:来自骨汤
    • 维生素B2、B3、B5:来自香料和鱼露
    • 新鲜香草(南方风格):维生素C、抗氧化剂

    牛肉含有肌酸和肉碱(有助于肌肉生长),大约50%的不饱和脂肪,以及维生素B12。鸡肉则更瘦。汤底中的明胶对关节有益。新鲜米粉每碗还能增加约3毫克蛋白质和微量的B族维生素。

    它不是什么超级食物,但绝对是一顿均衡的饭菜——碳水化合物、蛋白质、脂肪、蔬菜(如果你加了香草),以及来自真实食材的真正营养。

    去哪里吃Pho

    Hanoi:

    • Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan(49 Bat Dan):北方风味的牛肉pho,汤底醇厚,没有香草盘。50,000-60,000 VND。
    • Pho Thin(13 Lo Duc):牛肉在放入碗前先经过爆炒——带来口感上的对比。70,000 VND。
    • Pho "Ga" Hang Bong(Hang Bong街):鸡肉pho,散养鸡肉丝,清汤底。40,000 VND。

    Ho Chi Minh City:

    • Pho Hoa Pasteur(260C Pasteur):南方风味的牛肉pho,汤底偏甜,配有超大香草盘。60,000-80,000 VND。
    • Pho 2000(1-3 Pham Ngu Lao, District 1):比尔·克林顿在2000年曾在此用餐——墙上挂着照片。游客很多,但味道很扎实。70,000 VND。

    Nam Dinh:

    • 向当地人打听“pho Co”的摊贩——最初Van Cu家族的后代仍在经营摊位。

    Hanoi Vietnam The-omnipresent-plastic-chairs-01

    图片由CEphoto的Uwe Aranas提供,来自Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)

    点一碗Pho:牛肉的部位

    • Tai:生牛肉片,生着加入碗中,靠热汤烫熟
    • Nam:牛腩,全熟
    • Gau:肥牛胸肉
    • Gan:牛筋
    • Sach:牛百叶
    • Tai nam:半生半熟(最稳妥的默认点单选择)
    • Dac biet:“特别版”——包含所有部位的肉

    鸡肉pho:ga(鸡肉丝,通常是鸡腿和鸡胸肉)。

    如果觉得汤底味道淡,可以加点鱼露。如果觉得太甜,可以挤点青柠汁。如果你想吃辣,新鲜辣椒绝对比辣椒酱更好。

    地方特色

    • Pho chua(酸粉):Lang Son省——以醋为基础的汤底,没有骨汤。
    • Pho vit(鸭肉粉):Cao Bang——野味更重,油脂更丰厚。
    • Pho kho(干拌粉):Gia Lai——米粉、肉、香草,旁边配有一碗汤用来蘸食或佐餐。
    • Pho cuon:新鲜的米纸卷着牛肉和香草,配以蘸酱食用。不是汤粉。Hanoi的特色美食。
    • Pho ap chao:牛肉蔬菜炒粉——边缘酥脆,没有汤。

    结语

    Pho无处不在,但品质却参差不齐。寻找好粉的秘诀在于:

    • 清澈的汤底(不浑浊也不油腻)
    • 新鲜的米粉(柔软滑溜,不粘牙)
    • 现点现切的肉(而不是提前分装在塑料盒里的)
    • 早上7点挤满当地人的店面

    避开那些有五种语言塑封菜单却连一个越南顾客都没有的游客陷阱。最好的pho通常藏在狭窄的小巷里,由一位用同一份配方熬了30年汤底的人为你端上。

    在越南,你会吃很多碗pho。在吃完第十碗之后,你就会开始注意到它们之间的细微差别——汤底的醇厚度、米粉的弹性,以及油脂包裹嘴唇的感觉。到那时,你就知道你已经真正懂得了品鉴。